porcupine73

Well I went out and clamped off the fuel line after the filter. I went key acc to run for just a second and the pressure went to 61psig, so it appears the fuel pump isn't the problem. I pulled the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator and put some seafoam down in there. After that the peak reading I can now get is 41psig fuel pressure vs 37psig before. I'll see tomorrow if is any higher after the seafoam soaks in the regulator overnight....

Hi. At idle I am reading about 32 psig fuel pressure. The manual says it should be between 30-34 psig, so this reading seems OK. At full throttle (nearly zero vacuum), I am reading maybe 37psig. This is the highest I've seen it get. The manual says it should be between 41-46psig. Do Subaru fuel pressure regulators go faulty very often? Or maybe my gauge isn't very accurate (cyberdyne digital; not sure how accurate it is). I don't think my filters are causing any issue. If I run the key from acc to run a bunch of times without starting (zero vacuum), the highest pressure I read is 37psig. Should the fuel pressure bleed down from sitting? Before I cycle the key, the pressure is very low.

Hmm...a couple easy things to check would be do the fans spin freely by hand? Also could pull the connector and try powering the fan right off the battery with a fused jumper wire and an ammeter in series. Many multimeters can read only up to 10 amps; not sure if the fans take more than that....

Yes those are nice pics! If you don't want to race heads up, maybe you could negotiate for a few car lengths, then say you thought they meant jet lengths. There's been a couple races like this on TLC. One was that black jet engined powered car that set the speed record on the salt flats. It went up against a dodge viper. The jet car actually beat the viper off the line for the first 1/2 second maybe, then the viper flew by it. It was pretty funny. Like a minute later (I don't remember how long) you just see the jet car fly by the viper like it's standing still. Another was that semi tractor that guy put like 3 jet engines on that he runs at various shows and events. He raced it against some kind of military jet I think. The jet came over top of him real slow, then went full power and he went full power. I can't remember who won....

OK that's a lot of great suggestions and ideas. Until I figure out how I am going to cover, I just put a piece of black cloth over the wiring. It's kind of hard to see in the pic because of the glare. Also got the other gauges installed on the pillar. The camera doesn't catch all the gauge digits; I guess the gauges scan/strobe the leds.

Since the H6 uses the serpentine type accessory drive belt with automatic tensioner, I'm guessing you might need all the H6 accessories too, PS pump, alternator, a/c compressor, etc.

Yes a lot of the indicator lights get their ground through the alternator field circuit. Definitely check out the alternator and things. If you are getting this problem intermittently, the alternator may be getting ready for retirement. Here's some copy&paste from EndWrench.com articles: Erratic Warning Light Operation When diagnosing a vehicle with erratic operation (flashing, dim illumination, etc.) of the handbrake/brake fluid warning lights, check the charging system and the charge light system. The charge light system (which receives a ground through the alternator field when the alternator is not charging) is used to check the bulbs of the handbrake/brake fluid warning lights (and some other warning lights on select vehicles). End Wrench® http://www.endwrench.com Electrical Problems? Check The Alternator If a customer complains of a speedometer needle jumping, dash warning light(s) on/glowing dimly, or an engine driveability problem, etc., check the alternator. One of the simplest ways to see if the alternator is causing the problem is to unplug it. The vehicle may run fine with the alternator out of the picture. If the problem is gone with the alternator disconnected, then quite possibly you have found the source of the problem. Check the alternator/charging system more closely to determine the exact cause. The battery is only used to start the vehicle and to back up the charging system as necessary. When the vehicle is running, it’s the alternator’s job to supply electrical energy. If the alternator isn’t capable of supplying the correct voltage/amps (too much or too little) problems may result. Many shops overlook this simple test. End Wrench® http://www.endwrench.com

Hm...good point about the sprockets. Just a few parts with notes I found for Calif. specs: 13021AA141 1999 SPROCKET FOR CRANK PULLEY FOR 1999 LEGACY WITH 2.2 with CALIF EMISSIONS ONLY goes behind Harmonic Balancer 13021AA091 1997-1999 SPROCKET FOR CRANK PULLEY 1997-1999 LEGACYS 2.2 ALL (EXCEPT 1999 2.2 WITH CALIF EMISSIONS) goes behind Harmonic Balancer Not sure about the cam sprockets though...

Hm.....another good idea. That could work too. Could be very thin; just needs to cover. This might just be an excuse to buy a box&pan brake from harbor freight.....

Front axle: first clicking in sharp turns. Then clicking in slight turns. Then clicking all the time. Are you sure you don't have the usual heat shield rattle?

Hi nipper. Hm...good idea on using the smaller loom pieces. That will definitely help. The engine oil temperature and engine oil pressure are tapped off the factory oil pressure switch under the alternator. The ATF temperature sensor is in the line between the factory cooler and aftermarket cooler. There are more gauges to put in....four was the most I thought I could fit in that location and hopefully stay clear of the passenger airbag. I think I'll put these on the pillar. They are vacuum, fuel pressure, and A/F ratio (not sure how well it will work), and something else...I forget what it was now. Bought these gauges over two years ago and never got around tuit putting them in.

Cool thanks....hm...yes carpeted dash cover - that might just work. I would just drill a hole in the dash, but I didn't have the best of results doing that in my '96. I'll have to look for the info on making the fiberglass parts. Yes they do seem to turn out quite nice. I think you just use a lot of fiberglass cloth and that brushable filler....but what form to use to make it on....

Yes that is a lot of wire. I'd like to try making a custom fiberglass cover, I've seen that on pimp my ride and other shows, but how do you do it? Is there maybe a web site that would give instructions? I thought I might cover it with some black fabric of some sort....it might not look the greatest but it would cover the wires....

Hi. Installed these Cyberdyne gauges today in '00obw. Pretty happy with the look from the front. However, the look from the rear through the windshield is a little unsightly with all the wires and such. What could I use to clean up/cover up the wiring? Maybe I should have used a pod instead of trying to custom make something... these are voltage, engine oil pressure, engine oil temp, ATF temp Sorry about all the dust in this picture....there is a ton of pollen around here right now.

Looks like fuse no. 19 is for some relay in the hydraulic unit. It shows SBF-6 for the motor itself, but I'm not sure what that means. You can download the owners manual from my.subaru.com

Well in that case, maybe torque bind, FWD fuse installed? Other than that should be pretty solid?

Will it still roll in neutral now? Does it stall if you let the clutch out in neutral?

Yes, the relay/control module should be right on the hydraulic unit. The unit is that contraption at the RH (passenger) front of the vehicle with what at first glance appears to be 8000 brake lines flowing into/out of it.

If you're willing to take the risk, you can just pull the plug on the knock sensor so to speak, and replace it with say a 470 kilo-ohm or a little higher resistor. Of course the ECU will have no way to protect the timing if it does start knocking, but there won't be any power loss from the ECU retarding the timing. If you don't want to chop the wire on your existing knock sensor, if you post in 'parts wanted' you will find some very friendly and willing people who will send you their old knock sensors for a few bucks. Then you can chop the connector off and use that for the resistor.

Hi abpri and welcome! Hm, that's a weird problem. Did you move/remove any part of the plastic air intake tubing stuff or any other pieces/parts to replace the belt? If so, check carefully for any hoses or anything that may have come off. I have an '00obw too but mine's an auto....

hehe yes that knock sensor has gotten a lot of mileage. The person who had it before me must have gotten a lot of use out of it too.

It'll run without the o2 sensors. It only uses the front o2 sensor to refine A/F ratio control in closed loop operation after warmup, and even then only at certain 'cruising conditions', like not under heavy throttle. Not sure about the wire colors, but one wire has to be the output, one wire is for the heater, and the other is probably a ground as the heater can take up to maybe 10 amps.

The 60k federal belt and the 105k belt have different part numbers though... 13028AA102 TIMING BELT FOR 1995-1998 LEGACY 2.2 NON-CALIF SPECS 13028AA150 TIMING BELT FOR 1995-1998 LEGACY 2.2 WITH CALIF SPECS 123456789 Digits 1-3 are the 'part description code' - identifies part name and function Digits 7-9 'identify specific characteristics of parts with the same part description code' The specific code is assigned by the Fuji Engineering Division for internal use only. Digit 10 is the 'modification code'; identifies an engineering change to the part. Though they both have an MSRP of $60 which lends one to think they may be the same belt now; like you'd think the 105k belt might be more expensive. But Subaru did not change the recommended replacement interval for the federal spec for these MY's though, so not sure.

Well Calif. was the first to say vehicles couldn't require any emission related maintenance or something for 100k miles. The Calif. timing belts probably had kevlar aramid fibers or something that made them stronger/more durable. 13028AA102 TIMING BELT FOR 1995-1998 LEGACY 2.2 NON-CALIF SPECS MSRP/List $60 13028AA150 TIMING BELT FOR 1995-1998 LEGACY 2.2 WITH CALIF SPECS MSRP/List $60

Knock sensor looks like the thing in the pic below. Not completely sure about the Impreza, but on Legacies it is mounted with a single bolt (through the hole) to the engine block pretty much right below where the throttle/cruise control cables connect to the throttle body. This one is cracked and the wire is frayed. You don't want yours to look like this: