porcupine73

Do you have an AT or MT? I've heard using wooden clothes pins can be helpful in holding the belt in various places while lining it up. Maybe you need a new tensioner? I think EndWrench said it should take least 3 minutes and maybe as long as ten to compress the tensioner slooowllllyyy.

Cool! I had this touchiness too in '00obw. (Although it is an AT, you had to get on it slow or it would jump kind of). With engine off, I held the throttle wide open and sprayed valvoline throttle body cleaner all over the place up in there and cleaned the butterfly real good. Then held throttle at about 1/4 and fired it up. After it was done coughing and sputtering I let it return to idle. (Yes, watch out for smokescreen - suggest not doing this in the garage). Then I got up there and gave 1/4 second shots of the valvoline in the intake up where the IACV intake is. It would sputter again for a second. Did that about 12 times. Did seem to help quite a bit and the idle rpm doesn't seem to shift around as much anymore.

Step 1 is make sure all maintenance has been performed, plugs, wires, filters, etc. OEM plug wires should be used. Make sure coil contacts where they plug onto the spark plugs aren't erroded.

Hm...okay, well if neither fan is even coming on with the A/C then I think you should maybe backtrack from the fans themselves. Do the fans work if you unplug their harness and power them directly like with (fused) jumper wires? If that works, then may need a wiring diagram. Maybe the fan relays are bad, or there's a wiring issue, or the ground is bad, etc.

Uh...could be just about anything. Is the vehicle in proper tune? You know, fresh filters, plugs, wires, etc.?

Do any fans come on if you engage the a/c (if it has it)? How do you know the temp is hot enough for them to come on?

Wow that isn't fun. Obviously they didn't read http://tadd.weather.gov/tadd-intro.shtml

Uh oh...changed radiator hoses and heater hoses today. This is a '00obw 2.5L AT 108k miles. It wasn't wet, but rather some sort of salt encrusted mass. I haven't been noticing any coolant loss....guess I better keep checking. I'm using Zerex G-05 and the subaru coolant conditioner.

Problem fixed. I probably should have gotten a bigger rear sway bar while I was in there.... 1. Ordered correct endlinks (Whiteline KLC044 swivel): 2. Installed correct endlinks: The fronts went in without issue.

Cool the flush worked. Yes, front and rear diff gear oils, power steering fluid (uses same ATF as the transmission), brake fluid, coolant, engine oil.

Hi. Here's some info from this EndWrench article: 4EAT Phase 1 Diagnosis and Service 1995-98 Legacy, 1996-98 Impreza, 1996-97 SVX, 1998 Forester, Diagnostics (OBD -II Vehicles) The AT Oil Temperature light operates under the following conditions: Ignition switch ON/engine OFF is the bulb check mode, the light remains ON. Normal: Ignition switch ON/ Engine ON, light remains on for two seconds from engine start. Note: A failure is never reported via the AT oil temp light during current operation. The TCU waits until the next ignition cycle to display the following AT oil temp light condition. Therefore the driver may detect an abnormal driveability condition (fail safe operation) with no AT oil temp light indicating a failure. Abnormal - With the ignition switch ON and the engine running, the light remains ON for 2 seconds from engine start. OFF for 0.25 seconds, ON for 0.25 seconds 4 times, then OFF for 2 seconds. Cycle repeats 4 times for a total of 16 Blinks. Abnormal - ATF Temperature is too high The AT temp light comes ON and stays ON until the ATF temperature returns to normal. Trouble Codes Trouble code retrieval is similar to previous models, except for grounding terminal # 5 of connector B82 a 6 pole black, right side of steering column.Trouble codes will be displayed through AT Temp light with the following differences. There are 14 possible trouble codes communicated from the TCU. They are displayed in the same format as old fuel system trouble codes, long Flash = 10, short flash = 1. For example: 2 long and 4 short = code 24, Duty Solenoid C. The clear memory procedure is simple and quick, just remove fuse No. 14 for at least one minute. OBD-II Operation Overview The system monitors components and their operation, conducting continuity and performance checks. The check engine light or MIL illuminates when a code is set into ECU memory. Problems with the 4EAT are communicated from the TCU to the ECU. There are 2 trouble codes that are generated as soon as a problem occurs, turning on the MIL.With 22 others requiring a fault or error during two consecutive trips, before turning on the MIL. A trip is defined as a driving pattern in which test parameters are reached for a given time.A failed trip will be erased if the next trip is a good one. Transmission codes generated in OBD-II have freeze frame information available on the Select Monitor in the fuel system section of data display.

Thanks Jamal. Yes these endlinks will not at all work on the '00obw. I ordered the wrong endlinks. It is maybe possible that with a little 'trimming' they would work but I don't want to do that. They can't be installed the other way because there is some suspension piece in the way. It's like a tubular piece, not a rod like in your pic. Your pic does match the Whiteline pic for this installation though. Ordered the correct endlinks from RenickMotorsports.com today via overnight so hopefullly I get them for the long weekend! Front endlinks installed great.

Here's what happens when you attempt to install the wrong Whiteline rear endlinks (KLC026) on an '00obw. It sort of looks OK when the vehicle is jacked up. But when lowered, the axle shafts rub on the end link, as shown in the pic below. You can hear it rub the half shaft when moving the vehicle. Whoops. I'm not sure how I ordered these wrong end links and/or why I thought they would fit this '00obw when they looked completely different than stock and the Whiteline installation pic didn't look at like what I had. Hopefully I will get the correct KLC044 tomorrow. I believe I can use these endlinks though on my '96 Legacy. Fortunately I resisted the desire to 'trim' these end links.

Does it do it at idle when steering to that one side?

How did you determine that the speedo is off?

It's a panel that fits over the door.

Maybe grossgary would know, he has done the recharging. Should be R134a, I mean that stuff is used even in those computer canned air dusters.

Just a wild guess, but did the front sway bar fracture? I got weird noises like this on my '00obw when it busted, but there were a number of people who had that issue on the '00obw's, and it sounded like a shotgun blast when it broke.

Sure just looking....I told myself that and before I knew it I had three. Forester has the phase II 2.5L unless someone put a 2.2L or other engine in for some reason. All 2.5L's are interference, sohc and dohc. Phase II has the possible external peeping of coolant so make sure to use the coolant conditioner. Who just had that nice writeup about how to change the coolant each year and use two bottles of the conditioner to prevent the leaks (subaru master technician I think it said?) It's probably an sohc, but you can tell by looking at the timing belt covers. The dohc covers are kind of bulging top and bottom to fit the cam sprockets. The pics below are of a dohc (from the EndWrench dual cam timing belt article) What trim level does it have? Cars101.com: 2000 Forester: Engine - Phase II 2.5 liter 4 cylinder, 16 valve Single Overhead Cam Boxer engine, Horsepower: 165 hp, 166 foot pounds of torque at 4000 rpm Forester L model - 4 channel ABS. Vented front disc with dual caliper piston and rear drum. Forester S model - 4 channel ABS. Vented front disc with dual caliper piston and rear disc L: 15" steel wheel / Tires 205 / 70R 15 Raised white letter - S: 16" alloy wheel / Tires - 215 / 60R 16" Raised White Letter S forester adds over L model: 16" alloy wheels (L has 15" steel) Rear disc brakes (L has rear drums) Velour cloth interior (L has a harder finish) Slate lower accent (L is unpainted charcoal finish) Radio antenna inside left rear cargo area glass (L has mast ant on right fron bumper) All Weather Package: larger outside defrosting mirrors, heated front seats, windshield wiper de-icer, limited slip rear differential Limited slip new for 2000. (not available on L

Cool. Yah you might have to run 3-4 tanks of a particular brand/grade to notice any difference (if there is any difference) since the fuel is blending with what remains in the tank. Plus the ECU may need some trips to adjust.

Yah you should be fine using regular if that's what you want. The knock sensor should take care of you. Don't use 86 though, the manual says it doesn't want that. However if you want to run that baby for all it's worth, you need the premium. The thing the person may have 'messed up' by using regular fuel is coking up the combustion chambers, etc. though that can be cleaned. However if the knock sensor isn't detecting the knock correctly (thereby retarding the timing), engine damage could occur on the lower octane fuel if premium is called for.

I think they're saying to look for erosion at the spark plug's connection to the spark plug wire. Also I've heard of it happening between the coil connection to the spark plug wire on two cylinders (depends on which way the electrons flow I guess in this waste spark system).

Could be a couple things, but here's one from EndWrench: Legacy Idle Quality Complaints If you encounter a complaint of idle quality, especially during warm-up, check to see whether there is corrosion between the spark plug terminal tips and the spark plug wire’s contact.

You can also use those fast cam bolts by Ingalls and others; I think it's the 14mm size. Those will also work if the stock cam bolt can't be adjusted far enough b/c of the lift, but everyone I've talked to says stock is adequate for this lift. You probably got a little more than 2" lift since you went to OB struts on a Legacy too along with the lift springs.

d00d you need to get an alignment. Camber will be off from the lift. You probably have positive camber now and that makes the car feel twitchy. Cool though I'm working on my scorpion lift on my '00obw right now too.