porcupine73

ahhhh ok I guess that would cause that problem! I had wondered what would happen if one of those bolts came out, now I guess I know! Does anyone drill those and safety wire them?

DRL's are generally the high beams run at reduced intensity; not sure if that's how Subaru does it. The aftermarket units usually drive the lamps with a square wave of some duty cycle since that's more efficient than using a resistor or other linear method. Anyway, the aftermarket kit may have said it won't work with Subaru's because I think the left head lamp and right head lamp are on separate circuits with separate relays. If so you'd need two DRL kits. Can you maybe put on a pair of driving lights and have those come on with the ignition? Or does it have to be the headlights? Or maybe the fog lamps?

Here's an article from EndWrench: Usually low-octane fuel causes pinging, not some problem with the engine or ignition system. While few motorists believe they’ve done something themselves that causes the pinging, if you suggest it, most will switch gasoline brands and grades as an inexpensive diagnostic test. If, as is likely, the pinging goes away with the low-octane fuel, everybody wins. The reason for the change of fuel brands is different fuel manufacturers blend their fuels differently. Sometimes, a blend of lesser octane may go to a dealer. The pump at the station may be labeled 87 octane, but in fact, the gas being pumped may be less than that. Subaru vehicles are designed to operate on 87 octane or better. If your customer has put premium in the vehicle in an attempt to cure the ping, tell him or her to go back to a regular grade gasoline when switching brands. SVX and Legacy Turbo models must have premium gas to operate properly. It should also be pointed out that one tank of fuel may not make the problem go away since the new gas will mix with the old gas and will be ‘diluted.’ It may take several tanks of this other gasoline before the customer notices a change. So explain that this is not going to be an overnight cure. Also, suggest that the motorist stay away from non-major brands since the quality of the fuel may be questionable.

Yah the calipers are usually pretty good. I have had one on the '94 that was seized and had a little corosion inside, but it was easy to clean up and just used a reseal kit. It helps to have access to compressed air to get the piston out but there are alternatives. Most vehicles I've seen with replaced brake lines have exactly what grossgary said: the existing lines were just cutoff in place and the new lines were just run under the body or wherever convenient. Not sure about your bucking problem; maybe you can get the codes read again if possible and make sure no additional codes have showed up in addition to the cat code.

Hi, not familiar with the '99 forester suspension. Is this the single bolt that goes through the strut/shock? If it has what I think is called double wishbone?

There may be another possibility. I'm guessing the ECU is determining the thermostat is stuck open based on the reading from the engine coolant temp sensor (ECTS). So if the ECTS is giving a low reading I'm guessing it could cause this code, though the service manual did not say anything about it. If you have or could borrow a scangauge or something similar you could read what the vehicle thinks the engine coolant temp is; if it is staying below 180 deg F that would indicate an issue. The temp gauge might not really show much in this case. The temp gauges are kind of weird. It seems from like maybe 150-190 deg. F the needle doesn't really move a whole lot. I've heard that's so customers don't think something is wrong because the needle moves around. I don't think it's too much of an issue to drive like this for a while. There are a few risks, like if for any reason the engine is running rich because of this condition it could cause cat issues. Also you may want to do an oil change because the engine oil may not be getting up to temp then either thus letting condesnation and fuel build up in the oil.

Oh ok, well that's cool that it helped. You should be fine in this case. Behind that rubber flex boot thingy is the piston, and inside that about 1/3" inch is the piston seal. Unlikely any pb blaster got into the brake fluid. On my '94 I had a sticky caliper. I pounded the piston out with a punch through the caliper bolt hole. It was all corroded and stuff well into the piston beyond the seal. I cleaned it up with extra fine emery cloth, cleaned with brake clean, poured fresh brake fluid over it, and reassembled with the reseal kit.

Oh sorry man, I though you removed the brake hose banjo and shot it in there. At least that's what I did with kroil. Fortunately I had a caliper reseal kit onhand. The brake fluid does to a degree circulate. There's fluid going into the caliper when applying the brake. And fluid leaving the caliper when the pads get knocked back by the rotor.

Hm..maybe it's the crankshaft sprocket that's off. I noted several marks on my 2.5L. I had to pay careful attention to the diagram in the service manual ot make sure I had the right one..... The weird thing is the backfire, which makes me think maybe the intake valves are not completely closed when the cylinder fires.

Oh good point. You don't want any contamination in the brake system.

Awesome! I'm going to have to try it. Normally I use kroil.

This is the piece where the strut mounts with the studs to the body. Sometimes they rust out and rattle around. Could be other suspension issues too.

Hi. I have an '00obw too. DTC P1490 - THERMOSTAT MALFUNCTION Thermostat stuck open Now this may seem odd, but the first question the procedure asks is.... Are there any other codes present as well? Check radiator fan circuit. Does radiator fan continuously rotate for more than 3 minutes during idling? If yes, repair raidator fan circuit. If no, replace thermostat. Highly suggest new OEM thermostat and new gasket and new coolant - use Subaru OEM coolant or flush several times first with distilled water before switching to something else such as Zerex G-05. edit: don't forget the coolant conditioner/stop leak/holts radweld

Cool. Maybe it also had to do with resetting the ECU? I saw an article on EndWrench, forgot the years impacted, where if the battery was previously disconnected for only a short period of time and reconnected it could have a poor idle?

Sounds like maybe a strut mount. Otherwise check for loose components and give the rear suspension a good shake down, no broken springs, etc

It sounds like your timing is off. I'm not sure about the 1.8, but the 2.5 and I think the 2.2 have various markings on the cam sprockets. There are arrows, which I think is piston position - this is *not* the mark to use for lining up timing. There are dashes also which I think are the timing alignment marks. Otherwise try compression test and see what you get.

Oil FIlters: H-4 Versus H-6 Engines Also check out Filters: Excluding Undesirables

Hm...yah I wasn't sure what you meant by first and second filter?

Were they maybe not closing all the way or something stuck on the seats or something?

Depends on what you're trying to do. If you want the outlets hot all the time, just wire them directly to the battery with a fuse(s) as close to the battery as possible. You can tap into the hot wire for the existing outlet, but then all the outlets will share the same fuse; probably 10A or maybe 15A. So you can't run some power hungry inverter and a TV and an igloo cooler all at once.

I think if you cut it off the shank of the bolt will be stuck in the hole right? A couple ideas: try to get the bolt to turn like impact wrench or whatever while soaking it with your choice penetrating oil, beeswax, etc. Maybe beat on the other end while turning it. Also if you can somehow get a slide hammer on it that might pull it out.

They are smaller, but they have more media surface area. Plus they may very well be using synthetic/glass filter media rather than the old tech cellulose. The newer media is more efficient as well. Yes if you get a good glass media filter that has more filter surface area you could use it longer. Generally the glass media filters are recommended for 1 year max; cellulose 3-6 months max (because gasoline in the oil will deteroriate the media). There's an article on EndWrench about this. Like the H6 filter can be used on the H4 but not the other way around. If you want i can see if I can find it.

The MAF is mass air flow sensor. If yours has one you'll see it in the intake tube shortly after the air filter. It has a heated wire and a sensor wire and tell the ECU the mass of air flowing into the engine. Not all Suby's have MAF's; Subaru and other makers switched on and off to other methods including using a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) since it's less fussy than a MAF and I don't know it might be cheaper. Anyway, sometimes oiled air filters can 'release' some of their oil into the air intake stream and it builds up on the MAF. Then this oil kind of acts like an insulator to the heater and sensor wires and results in an erroneous reading. This can happen over time as small amounts of oil get released. You could try a MAF cleaner, but please don't touch the wires with a qtip or anything. However, the air filter may not be causing your problem. If you can get that code read (hopefully it's one that got stored in history if the CEL isn't on right now) that would probably go a long way to figuring out the problem. There are lots of other things that could cause these symptoms.

Do you at least here a click? Does it work if you hit the starter with a hammer? Sometimes the contacts go bad. Sometimes it's other issues like neutral/park/clutch switch etc.

Does your vehicle have a MAF? Sometimes the oil from oiled air filters will get on the maf wires and cause issues.