porcupine73

Provided there aren't other issues with the engine that could be causing knock, it shouldn't harm to relocate it. I wrapped mine in bubble wrap and grounded it with a big alligator clip about 8 months ago and the car is running great. I've been using premium to help reduce chance of knock due to fuel octane being too low. Sometimes combustion chambers and stuff get all coked and carboned up thus effectively increasing the compression ratio. There was an article about this on EndWrench I think. This can cause slight knocking resulting in retarded timing. If you have a scangauge, you could hook that up and see what kind of retard you're getting when you have the issue. Oh, does your knock sensor have a crack in it like this pic (this item should look familiar to one of the posters in this thread...)

I haven't heard of the 'half moons'. My '00obw 2.5L I'm pretty sure doesn't have the cam cap o-rings, at least I couldn't find them. I know both my '94 and '96 2.2L's have the cam cap o-rings; the RH one looked like this on the '94. It was leaking and the old o-ring was rock hard. The new one was nice and supple:

If you do decide to go with just the aftermarket cooler and bypass the in-radiator cooler, go with a big enough cooler to take the load. Just as an example, Perma-cools instructions tell you what their minimum size cooler is for various kinds of vehicles if you desire to bypass the in-tank cooler. Nobody wants coolant in their ATF. The in-tank cooler to a degree acts like a temperature buffer. It can help warm the ATF when it's cold and cool it when it's hot. Also, there is an OEM Subaru ATF cooler kit available if you want to go that route.

That's going to be a tough one. It's hard to find a good transmission shop. I would avoid aamco and those kind of places. Maybe someone in your area knows a good place. If you can find a known good used one that might be a way to go, though I know you already had one put in....letting those places do work on the internals is questionable unless they're a good solid reputable place.

Hi ElectricSunset and welcome. Yes, air in the system can cause the temp gauge to show hot when the engine doesn't seem hot. The coolant temp sensors are in the coolant pipe near the top of the engine. Typically this is an area where air in the system may rise into. Depending on how much air you have in there, it can get very hot as it contacts the heads, etc. Replace radiator cap. It isn't that expensive and these do build up gunk under the parts in the top and it doesn't seal correctly sometimes. Make sure radiator neck where the cap goes on is clean. For a few trips when the engine is cold, try checking the coolant level before each trip by removing the radiator cap. If there is any leakage anywhere in the system, the vehicle can't pull coolant from the overflow tank back into the system. Also it can be somewhat easy if you're not careful to trap air in these systems. There are many posts on here about how to refill the coolant and get the air pockets out. If the coolant was changed not too long before this hot temp gauge issue, it could be air pocket in system. Oh yah, if there is exhaust blowing into the coolant this could happen too.

Sometimes if the contacts are just starting to go bad, if you give the starter a few taps with a hammer (use your small hammer - save the big hammer in case it still doesn't work). If that works, could be the contacts as mentioned.

I'm trying to remember for sure when I did mine...My '96 has the cooler in the LH side of the radiator. I think the top hose was the return to trans and the bottom hose was the supply from trans. The best thing to do is yank one of the hoses, run some of that 3/8" cheap clear vinyl hose from home despot from the cooler and the hose you pulled into an old milk jug, and just hit the starter for a second.

Oh car is unoperational? Sorry I missed that. Did you ground the vehicle with issues to anywhere other than the battery post? It may have fried ground wire(s) somewhere.

Well that is good news, in that it has nothing to do with the cat. I've seen this code several times in Suby's of this era. DTC P0115: ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (TW) Yes it could be a wiring issue or poor contact somewhere. However it is most often the sensor itself. When I got this code, I just replaced the sensor and the code went away. OEM sensor can be had online for about $25. Example I bought a new OEM sensor. There may be aftermarket alternatives but I figured why mess around. Note there are two sensors: ECTS (engine coolant temp sensor, which is the one we're talking about) and CTS (for the temp gauge - _not_ the one we're talking about). Sensor is They're right next to each other, as shown in pics below: Here it is in my '96 Legacy: Here it is a little easier to see in my '94 Legacy - it's the thing with the brownish connector in the center of the pic.

Probably not dust boots or bumpers/helpers, but if any rubber pieces are worn/dry rotted/etc might was well replace them now.

It might just be settings. I'd check the owners manual to see how to set those things. Not sure about that '02 but as the years went by more and more user configurable items were added requiring seemingly weird actions to set such as pressing the brake 20 times in 10 seconds while rolling the window down. If you were connected directly to the battery terminals, I think it unlikely any computer components were damaged by the reverse hookup. If you had the ground connected to some metal part of the body on either car (rather than the battery terminal) then fair amounts of current may have flowed through various ground paths on the vehicle and damage is more likely. If one vehicle was running while this happened, the alternator may have been damaged and/or fusible link blown.

Sure give it a try; ask Autozone to read it. If they give any balk blah blah no ODBII until '96 just ask them to try it anyway. Then write down the code number (not just the description they give). It'll be something like P0420. Also I wouldn't buy any parts from them such as o2 sensor or anything until you've researched the issue and decided what you want to do and if parts are needed do you want to go oem. There might be a sticky on this board somewhere with the code meanings, or just post here and someone will tell you what it means. P0xxx codes are generic and have the same meaning for all ODBII vehicles (though the cause of the code many be different). P1xxx and I think P2xxx codes are manufacturer specific and the meaning may be different between various makes and models. If you plan to work on your vehicle or just want to have one handy you could buy an inexpensive code reader. It's nice to have in the car so if the light pops on the code can be read immediately.

Sounds good!

Front o2 sensor is in the exhaust pipe near the front cat. It isn't too hard to change. The hardest part can be freeing up the existing o2 sensor. Spray with penetrating oil a day or two before the job. Usually it's easier to free up with the exhaust a little warm than cold. Unhook the connector. Then feed the wire through a 22mm or 7/8" 6pt wrench. Tap the wrench with a dead blow hammer. Don't be too rough on it because you don't want to mess up the bung or break the sensor off in there. Also exhaust leaks can cause o2 sensor codes.

They might not have replaced the valve cover gaskets and bolt hole seals (not sure if that engine has the spark plug hole seals). Reusing them when they're old can let some leaks. OEM PCV valve isn't too expensive, takes like 5 minutes to replace, and would be a good idea to replace if it hasn't been done. Does the ticking go away after engine warms up a bit?

Alright good job! Yah I forgot about the coolant coming out. You might want to check the radiator bleeder screw thing at the top of the radiator RH (passeng.) side. You don't want to get any air pockets trapped in the cooling system. Sounds like maybe it's time for plug wires or coil pack inspection if the water mad it run poorly?

Maybe you can find an alarm fuse to pull (provided it doesn't power something else too) or unplug a harness from the alarm unit (assuming it's some separate module). Sounds like maybe the door switch contacts are not the greatest? Like when closing the door maybe the switch makes, then brakes, then makes, etc. Not sure if the module is smart enough to not activate for like 1 second after seeing the door switch open or not. Could, as an experiment, try opening the passenger or other door, then close the driver door, then close the other door and see if it still happens. I wouldn't disable the horn per se, especially if it may be part of your state's safety testing program, and also it is a nice safety device.

You only need to replace the mounts if the existing ones are rusty or otherwise in bad shape. Or if you want to do a thorough job you might replace them. On the fronts, there are bearings in the mounts so the wheels can turn for steering. So if you think those might be going bad might replace the front mounts. Basically, inspect what you've got. Sometimes the rubber parts get nasty with age too and could be replaced. Look at your springs too. If they're rusty or broken or anything might was well replace those while you're in there. For the mounts, there is also an sti version available with harder rubber.

Could that blackdeath be flushed out with something? Like trichloroethane but I don't think you can get that anymore. Maybe it would be worth a shot to replace the o-rings, schraders and stuff, recharge and see what happens. That shouldn't cost too much esp if you can do it yourself and maybe it would work? Thanks grossgary that's great info. Do the compressors go bad from sitting/being at ambient? I don't know if mine's bad. Just got the vehicle, can see the condenser is bent up from front ender, and the a/c doesn't work. Did you get oem o-rings or do those green hnbr ones work? I saw a hnbr set at harbor freight. Didn't get it because it is SAE sizes. I'm assuming the Subaru is some metric size. I was thinking I'd have to buy or rent one of those 'micron level' refrig vacuums. I'll try the Harbor Freight vacuum puller, replace the o-rings, schrader valves, etc. I checked it is 134a. At the worst I'll waste a little refrigerant.

Great thanks grossgary that answers my question. Do you ever add any additional oil to the system? Sorry yes I should have started a new thread. I have one of those Harbor Freight vacuum puller things, at the one near me they're closing them out for like $6. I think I'll try it with my '94 Legacy; it was in a front ender and I think the condenser is ruptured. I have a condenser I got in the parts wanted section on here. The new accumulators with desiccant are over $100 so I hope to avoid that cost...shoot I'm assuming this vehicle is 134a I better check. It's the Zexel.

Hmm, well I don't know about the sound but yes engines don't take kindly to running without oil for extended periods. Could check out http://www.ccrengines.com and see what they could do for you. Others have done the 2.5L to 2.2L swap. There should be some posts on it someone can point out. I think some of the connectors pinout may be a little different and something with the flexplate number of bolts or something.

Drats my carfax acct expired. What's the mileage, the link says 0. Could be a good vehicle though. You probably know the things to look for such as tires matching, torque bind, HG issues, etc.

Hi grossgary. When you pull that vacuum, what kind of pump do you use and how long do you pull the vacuum for? (heard it can take awhile to get out moisture). Also do you replace the accumlator containing the dessicant, or can that be dried if a vacuum is pullled long enough? Thanks!

Good catch on the wreck&rebuild. It is interesting that it didn't show up on carfax. Carfax as far as I know only knows about incidents reported to the DMV. Sometimes the owner has no motive to report the accident, such as if he/she has no collision coverage anyway, increased insurance rates, etc.

Hi, assuming all tune up stuff (new OEM plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, etc) is all in good shape, could be front O2 sensor. I'm not clear if you're saying you took the front o2 sensor off the previous vehicle and put in your current vehicle? Are there any brakes hanging up, wheel bearings in good shape, etc? Any other changes like getting fuel at a different station, etc?