porcupine73

You might get a good used half shaft from a junkyard. Personally I would not use an aftermarket half shaft as I've seen too many posts about issues with failure and some weird vibration stopped in drive afterward. MWE axle rebuild might be an option. Aftermarket rebuilt halfshaft is probably cheapest though. There's been other posts of people going a good number of 10's of thousands of miles with the thing clicking and stuff but not failing...not saying it's the best option but if it passes inspection and you know it might fail...

The conventional lefty loosey righty tighty should work on this one.

You may have to patch/fix the exhaust leak to pass. Do they like sniff the exhaust while running or do a dyno test or something? Otherwise most states have a DMV web site listing exactly what is 'required' to be checked during inspection. If it's an exhaust sniff test, I've heard running several bottles of 'isoheet' or similar isopropyl may help. Also get the car good and warmed up before going for the test, and leave it running in the parking lot while waiting.

Hello! Buffalo here. Service procedure first asks there are any other codes in addition to P0400. Then it says check for any leakage or clogging of vacuum hoses. The most pertinent parts seem to be 'possibly egr valve malfuction may be due to freezing or clogging by foreign matter'. 'Is there any clogging in the gas outlets of intake or cylinder head, checking by breathing into the outlets?' 'do not use solvent when cleaning the egr valve assembly, as it can cause diapragm damage' 'replace egr valve as required' There's some other more esoteric stuff about using the Select Monitor and some 'driving cycle'.

I'm sure you probably can get the rears separately, but I don't know if renick will sell them that way. You could probably order from australia maybe....might be able to find a dealer from http://www.kingsprings.com Do you have outback springs and struts in the rear too? Or there was a post recently about those rubber strut spacer things for like $10 each that might work...

Yes a pressure and volume test could be good too. I hear air bubbles sometimes after changing the fuel filter. I cycle the key from acc to run a dozen times or so waiting a few seconds in run to cycle the pump. I think as the fuel filter's air gets replaced with fuel, the air bubbles back into the fuel tank? Usually it's not too much but it sounds bubbly to me.

Change the fluid regularly with good quality ATF and the tranny should stay happy. Add a cooler if you drive in hot climates. Pop in a magnefine or something for a little extra protection. AT's don't like dirty or burnt fluid.

I'd try changing the fuel filter again too, with oem is possible, since a lot of stuff could get in there in 20k miles. It also might be that your fuel pressure is bleeding down when the vehicle is off. I have noticed that right after changing the fuel filter or releasing pressure on the fuel system, the fuel pump is a lower pitch sound and is much more noticeable. When the pressure is up, it's quieter and a higher pitch sound. Next time you the low grindy noise when turning key from acc to run, wait a few seconds, go back to acc, then to run again and do that a few times. See if the pump sound then goes to the higher pitch sound. If so I suspect the fuel pressure is bleeding down when vehicle sits. Oh also sometimes I hear air bubbles in there too; it might sound like grinding?

Does it do it on every 2-3 shift or just on the first 2-3 shift of a drive cycle?

I think he said it cost < $800. Figure about $460 for the springs with shipping, plus maybe $280 or so for new KYB's. This type of lift is relatively easy; you pull the old struts/shocks and put in new. A spring compressor is needed but those aren't real expensive. If your strut mounts are rusty or anything, might as well get new. In that case, if you just buy all new components, rubber parts, etc., you don't even have to disassemble the old strut unit. The only thing is the bump stoppers are like $25 each so it might be worth getting those from the old units. Getting an alignment afterward is good idea.

Here's an article from endwrench: 4EAT FWD and AWD Brake Band Adjustment. It doesn't give the procedure but it does give some tips on how to get the adjusting mechanism as it is a little tricky. I think I saw if you turn it too much all at once it could make the band slip off the drum or something. But yes, AT slipping is very bad and will shred the clutches pretty fast. Since you say the slipping started after the service, where did you have the ATF replaced? What brand and type of fluid was used? Is the fluid level correct?

Sounds like good scouting. That sounds like a long (and expensive) list of repairs for the '01 trade in. It's doable, especially if you can do the work yourself. Maybe you can get the price down more as I would think the main buyers for that kind of vehicle would be someone or dealer that would fix it up and resell it. I think there was a class action suit against carfax some time back because of various incidents not showing up in their reports. Of course it does say something about 'incidents reported to the dmv' or something like that. Not sure how many states they now get that data from. And if it is something like a 'light rollover' that is never reported then of course it won't show up. I have noticed, at least for NY, sometimes the vehicles show a 'frame inspection' but not an 'accident'. But then the paint overspray on the front of the a/c condenser is a dead giveway. If the incident did not involve another vehicle or damage to another person's property and the owner did not have collision coverage anyway, then I'd say it very well might not get reported.

As far as I know they're pretty solid. Check the normal things you'd check on a Sub of course. You didn't mention year or mileage. I'm guessing it's AT I don't think the H6 is available with MT? If so make sure FWD fuse isn't in, torque bind, etc. I have seen some posts where people had timing chain issues. Some indicated Subaru took care of them. When the H6 is ready for a timing chain it's a lot more involved than with the 4cyl timing belts.

Hm...is there a web site for that? The slowboat from Australia is, well, pretty slow!

Yes I'd have a looksee at the power mirror wiring for chafing as well. There is a note on EndWrench about it for like '00-'02 Legacy's I think it was, but surely it could happen to other models as well.

Renick told me today they are shipping out my scorpion springs. I ordered about 8-9 weeks ago. They must have just received a shipment. So it might be a good time to contact them to see if they have any others left in stock if you're still interested. I double checked the Kings Springs catalog to make sure I had the part numbers I wanted.

Say does your idle still stumble right from a cold start? The o2 sensor doesn't output a useful signal until it's hot enough which takes what maybe a minute or two after startup...

There are a number of posts of people who developed slow to engage into drive on '99's and some '00's. But yes checking fluid level reguarly is good to do. The procedure is in your manual; basically check in park engine running on level surface after vehicle has shifted through all gears.

Hi. Part # should be 22630AA041 Legacy 1990-1999 SENSOR TEMPERATURE ASSEMBLY FOR 1990-1999 LEGACY ALL. Should be about $25 from an online parts dealer. Not 100% sure about the '95 but on my '96 2.2L the engine coolant temp sensor is under the intake manifold tube nearest the idle air control valve. It's nearly impossible to see just looking down from the top of the engine. For my '96, your P0115 shows 'engine coolant temp sensor circuit malfunction'. At least on the '96, the engine coolant temp sensor is _not_ the same as the sensor for the temp gauge, though they are near each other.

Good call nipper. I've seen many posts on this issue as well, esp on '99. It seems to me there was some Subaru bulletin about it but I just can't seem to find it anymore.

Yes probably check the MT fluid level and type. Sometimes the synchros are kind of picky as to fluid type. Searches may turn up some results about the 'uncle scotty's cocktail' and as nipper said many like redline. Be cautious about mobil1 gear lube as they had issues with their high sulfur (good ep antiwear) or something eating up parts in the MT's. The CEL/MIL has to be scanned to know what it is. Anything else is a guess.

How many miles on the vehicle? If it's not too bad and the rest of the vehicle is in good shape, the '99 should be a pretty good vehicle and may justify the cost of a good rebuild such as ccr. '99 should be the phase II 2.5?, which sometimes has the external coolant leakage.

Wow I think maybe I need to be more careful spraying silicone all over the place in the engine compartment. I thought egr was more of an emissions device. Yes if the vehicle came with it from the factory then more many states emissions inspection it must be present. I think '95-'96 was a year for lots of changes/differences in this area as odbii was phased in.

Ok cool! The Subaru service manuals have several special things like those arrows to indicate a nut to remove. There's other markings for 'selective' replacement parts which means you have to pick a shim or something that is the right size based on measurements or plastigage or whatever. Some are for fasteners that should be replaced any time they are removed, etc.

Hi. Actually 'B' is on the right. It shows ( B ) \