porcupine73

For specs, check out cars101.com The engine should be 2.2L Overhead cam 4 cylinder Boxer engine HP 130@5600 rpm, torque 137@4400rpm mutli-port fuel injection, 15.9 US gal fuel tank, 87 octane

If you want to reseal the oil pump, you'll have to remove the timing belt. Then you can slide of the crank sprocket and unbolt the oil pump. You'll need a new front crank seal as the oil pump slips over the crank. And a new oil pump discharge to block o-ring. The screws sometimes tended to back out of the rear case over the rotors, thus allowing oil to seep out and sometimes leak out or even push out the front crank seal. There is an article on endwrench about it. However, I would suspect the gauge or sender. If you are reading 90+psi then either the gauge is inaccurate or the oil pump internal pressure relief isn't working correctly since it opens at about 72psi. There was a recent post on here about gauges where nipper and others gave some good info about gauge accuracy and how they don't necessarily give accurate readings at the low or high end of the range.

'96 legacy brighton here, she has rear drums....(but not for long).

If your plug wires are not OEM or are more than a couple years old, the first thing I'd try for misfire is to replace them with new OEM wires. Maybe if plugs aren't relatively new put in new NGK plugs (not champion or autolite or anything like that).

Does it maybe exist only on turbo models?

The fans run only when needed for removing heat from the radiator and/or a/c condensor. The main fan may operate without the subfan operating. Check out this control chart involving engine coolant temp, vehicle speed, and a/c compressor on/off:

Have you guys heard of this Cosworth CS600 series High Performance Subaru EJ25 long block and if so what do you think? I'm sure it's not cheap... Says it starts with a new Subaru EJ257 semi closed deck block • New Subaru EJ25 STI Engine case • New Subaru EJ25 STI Forged Crankshaft • Optional Billet Cosworth Crankshaft (CS600X) • Cosworth Forged H-beam Connecting Rods • Cosworth Forged Pistons (CR 8.2:1) • Cosworth motorsport Tri-metal bearings • Balanced to within .5 gram • Complete blue-print assembly • Enlarged Intake and Exhaust ports. • Large diameter stainless steel intake valves. • Large diameter Inconel exhaust valves. • Hi Rev, Dual valve springs • Titanium Retainers • Hardened Steel spring platforms. • Multi angle valve job • Machined port finish • Knife edge port divider • Cosworth S2 High lift camshafts • Valve lash set • Cosworth high pressure oil pump • Cam covers • Cosworth serial number

Yes you can't use a multimeter to measure resistance in an energized circuit because the meter applies its own voltage. With the sender connected to the gauge and energized, try measuring the voltage across the sender terminals. If it has only one terminal then measure that with respect to ground. I think cosworth makes a high volume oil pump for the Subaru's too.

Yes that's all true! And color is important. Or my dad tells me I can own my three Subaru's for less than the price of one new....hm...actually it's more like 5 or 6 but hey who's counting!

Wow an Alaska trip sounds cool. CB yes good idea. Thanks for the TT info. Yes who cares about the cost. You know one's Subaru's could be considered like pets...if the vet said it's $ to make your pet like new, or well you could just replace him/her......

Wow yes I remember Blu getting the new engine when you were on the long trip last year. That must have been an awesome trip. A jdm TT would no doubt be sweet too! That'd be a 2.0 right? I read each turbo is 'tuned' for a different rpm range?

Sweet indeed! So what's that gauge on the far right? Is that vacuum, or boost? edit: oh duh I suppose that's the oil pressure?

Cool! Are those the three gauges above your three (sweet) accessory outlets?

Does this document help at all --> http://www.psi3.co.uk/downloads/sensorinstall.pdf Hm..good point temp sensor needs to be in the stream. Yes those pressure senders are kind of large for some reason. What kind of gauges did you get?

Sometimes knocking sounds are the strut mounts all corroded out. If you shake rigorously the bar do you feel any freeplay?

Hi nipper. Sorry I'm not sure where the oil gallery plug is (actually when I installed I didn't know there was one that might be available). Anyway I teed in at the factory pressure sender. I believe it was 1/8" british standard pipe tapered thread BSPT.

Not sure if auto parts stores carry that, but it is most likely 1/8" BSPT (british standard pipe tapered thread), so you could plug it temporarily if needed. If the sensor isn't snapped off it might just need to be resealed.

Yep that sounds about right. It is nearly impossible to see from the top of the engine because it's pretty much right underneath the intake manifold pipe nearest the PCV.

Yah check someplace like http://www.subarupartsforyou.com or http://www.subarugenuineparts.com should be able to get for about $41. If you want something a little tighter, places such as renickmotorsports.com have whiteline and kartboy end links.

Generic feeler gauge should be fine. Just make sure you know if you're checking inches or mm (I got a little confused on mine and had to redo). I found the 'angled' feeler gauges easiest to use. My '00obw had solid lifters so I'm not familiar with how to do the shims.

I haven't used them before but might consider it for a lifting effect. I have replaced struts and springs and their related rubber parts and mounts before. 1. I don't know if these would work at the very bottom if that's what you mean like between the spring and seat. The bottom spring seat is usually tapered not flat like the top. 2. Well rubber would probably eventually deterioriate, just like the other parts in the struts do eventually. 3. Zip ties might work not sure if they'd eventually wear out though. 4. Camber might be off a little bit I guess.

Those look interesting. I haven't seen them before.

cars101.com could probably tell you all the specs specific to the years and models.

I would at least check clearance. If it's real tight it might be getting ready to start scorching valves.

Hi. I've been using 11/32 I.D. on mine which fits pretty good.