porcupine73

Hi tiredandwired and :welcome: ! IACV is idle air control valve. A pic of roughly where it is on my '96 is below. Vacuum leaks can also cause high idling. For cylinder misfire, what condition are the plug wires in and are the OEM? How about the spark plugs? Are they NGK or other Japanese type?

Where to get one...possibly salvage/scrap yard/WTB forum on here/eBay. That's probably the cheapest especially if they're local.

Oh sorry about that...totally missed the mention of renick motorsports in the original post. I searched before trying to find another source for these springs and kits, but didn't find anything in the U.S. I wonder who in australia renick is ordering them from....maybe directly from the manuf? Hm....you've got me worried now as to whether I'm going to get the ones I ordered or not!

Not sure how much this will help but I know I've seen at least one post like this somewhere for an '07....maybe on another board...com'n brain think...

OK thanks. Just trying to figure out for replacement starter what the most reliable yet cost effective way is to go. I had terrible luck with oem reman starters from Ford, but I would expect Subaru to be superior.

Just curious were these used, oem remans, autoparts store remans? Thanks.

Sweet! I'll take two! Where do I sign up!

I just did this job on my '00obw 2.5L EJ251 and used the FSM values of: Intake 0.20 +/- 0.02 mm Exhaust 0.25 +/- 0.02 mm My underhood sticker says Intake 0.10 - 0.25 mm Exhaust 0.15 - 0.30 mm I'd guess you could go 0.10 and .15 but that appears to be the minimum permitted value which doesn't leave much room for error.

I ordered the scorpion lift springs for my '96 and '00 from renickmotorsports.com I'm pretty sure these are king springs from australia as the scorpion part #'s are the same and they said it was like 6-8 weeks to get them.

Hm...maybe I should see if they have synthetic bulb grease! :cool: and might as well put in the low-friction muffler bearings while I have it up. Not sure what in this bulb grease. It's a white paste. I suspect it's silicone grease with some sort of cleaner in it. If put on a tarnished connection it will make it shiny after a while. Haven't had any stuck in the socket bulbs on the Suby's though even without this grease. Started using it on the 'ol 88 lincoln 'cause the bulbs liked to rot into the sockets making them impossible to get out. This stuff seemed to help.

Probably mainly the phase I's up to about '99 blowing exhaust into the coolant potentially...maybe 15% of vehicles or so. Then maybe '99 to '03 had the external leak issue add the magical mystery cure suby/holts radweld.

Hm...good info Skip and daeron. Actually I hadn't heard of the ignition switch issues before this. I'll have to look into this on my '96 as it sometimes has this issue....

Wow...that's....really....something.....! A wrap would probably be the most cost effective way. I guess someone could airbrush that but they'd have to be pretty good. edit: I do like 'dem phat 5 spokes tho....

When I went to NAPA, I think they sold me 5/16" heater hose for this application after measuring what I brought in. As 86BRATMAN mentioned, as long as it doesn't kink or leak it should be fine. The risk of course with this item not working is icing of the intake butterfly. Here's a pic of one I got for I think my '00obw (7.6mm is .299 inches, closest match is 5/16" which is .3125 inches)

At slightly above idle, maybe 900-1100 rpms, my '96 and '00 suby's get that sort of weird heat shield rattle sound.

Well I was the high bidder but the reserve wasn't met...probably all the better, I did buy a '94 Legacy L Wagon, which I could've bought more than 10 of them for what I'dve paid for this turbo...yet...

Schweeeet! Problem solved. One bulb was blown out, the other just had a bad connection in the socket. Replaced both bulbs and it's working! Thanks you guys! Here's the story in pictures: Yes there is some weird relay contraption on the RH side: Then I put in these new bulbs: With some of this grease on the contacts and stuff: And this is what happened: ()

Hendrick, thanks I will look for this stoplight checker. Jamal, good point, I thought about that today, it is entirely possible that both stop lamp elements are simply blown out. I will check it out. Since I just got this vehicle I've got my 10 day temporary NYS inspection sticker and the list of things checked in a NYS safety inspection and am trying to make sure everything is in order before going in.

Maybe you just need new contacts. If you pull the starter apart and your contacts are pitted, just replace them. They're under $10.

On this 1994 Legacy L Wagon, when pressing the brake, only the highmount/third brake light illuminates. The left and right stop lights do nothing. The left and right taillights illuminate if the parking/head lights are on, but there is no change when pressing the brake. Just wondering if this is a common issue or what wiring areas to check. Maybe this issue was already addressed in another post... Thanks!

Thanks ericm...yep it needs a little TLC. The drivetrain seems good. ATF was in pretty good shape; didn't smell burnt and was fairly pink on the paper towel and level was good. All tires match but I think they're fairly new those $19 pepboys jobbies. Front diff gear oil was a little black, but level was good. Didn't seem to have any torque bind. Didn't see FWD light on; couldn't find FWD fuse readily on this vehicle for some reason...Hope airbag didn't deploy in whatever frontender it had.

So what do you guys think? What should I check out/fix up? Just added '94 Suby L Wagon AWD 2.2L AT n/a to the stable. I'm so excited! I found it on buffalo craigslist for sale by local student who bought a WRX. It needs a little TLC but I thought the price was good and mileage is about 103k miles. Didn't seem to have torque bind and the FWD light wasn't on. It was in a front end accident of some sort as the A/C doesn't work and the condensor is all bent up and the LH turn lamp is broken and rusty and the hood is a little bent up. There's a few things I'll have to fix up to get it to fix NYS safety inspection. There's other minor issues I need to check out too. Posting in marketplace WTB for a couple parts so far... Here's some pics: RH side has some visible rust: LH side has some friendly car on car love damage: rear has some rust stains but not too bad: LH turn signal is cracked and rusty (that yellow is rust it's not yellow plastic) A/C doesn't work; condensor is probably ruptured from accident it's so bent up. edit: forgot the underhood pic...

Hm...not really sure from that pic, but the real way to know is to locate both o2 sensors. Not sure about your specific model, but in general on n/a models the rear o2 sensor is sort of under the middle of the car. The front o2 sensor is generally on the right side sort of near the front diff. Not sure about suby's but some makes have two front o2 sensors and two rear o2 sensors they probably have dual exhaust.

Hm very interesting info NOMAD327. I will have to keep that in mind for future jobs. It probably explains why in my previous bleedings I noted that after I pushed the pedal all the way to the floor I got a lot more junk out the bleeders.

As mentioned pllugs are a good thing to check. Does it still do it on a tankfull of premium fuel? Maybe your combustion chambers are all coked up and could use a couple stiff does of techron, redline si-1, or other quality cleaner.