porcupine73

If you want to tee in, the optimal place would be either right after the fuel filter outlet, or possibly on the fuel pressure regulator return line to the tank. You could put a top quality ball valve optimally rated for gasoline I suppose though I don't know if there is such a thing. This obviously is not a place to skimp on anything since fuel leaks, well, could make the entire vehicle go up in flames. Maybe with a hose barb fitting after the ball valve so you can run some hose into your tank. I've thought about this sort of setup too since it would be nice for if there's a power outage to withdraw gasoline for your generator. And it's much more 'stealthy' to refill your vehicle with 15 gallons of gasoline than several cans. And the metal FM rated cans fare much better in fires than the plastic ones which tend to melt and spill their contents.

Hi Max Power. I was just doing this same job today for the first time. It seemed easiest to get the boot ring in place with the piston fully seated. Plus with it fully seated you can spead that lucious niglube all over the place without risking getting it into the caliper bore. Putting the boot ring on seemed to be a bit of the pain. It needs to be compressed to a small enough diameter to get it into the groove. But it seemed tough to get the ring to seat into/onto the boot groove. It liked to mash the boot back into the groove rather than sit in the groove. If that makes any sense.

Right on. It should work acceptably in open loop ableit with possibly not optimal mileage. It knows roughly/crose enough how much fuel is needed for the air coming in and the conditions. The O2 sensor just lets it control the A/F ratio with feedback. Maybe on the 1990 it's not an emissions item (i.e. an item 'requiring' the CEL.MIL to come on)?

You might also want to get the code(s) read for your CEL/MIL. Some parts stores will read them for free. Are you replacing the plugs too or just the wires? The plugs can be a little tricky on that vehicle, though I hear there are holes in the fenders to allow easier access.

When cold make sure coolant level is full under radiator cap (not just overflow tank). Check for radiator obstructions by running warm and using point and shoot thermometer (cheap at harbor freight). Could also be thermostat intermittently failing closed or more closed than it should. Was the water pump replaced previously? The slime:

Yah I accidentally scratched one of the surfaces for the cam seal. I just put a little permatex ultra grey on it and pounded the seal in. No leaks, but it wasn't much of a scratch. I wouldn't use JBweld unless absolutely necessary; the rtv can still be removed relatively easily - not so the jbweld.

I think it's listed for check every 105k miles. I hear these lifters often get looser with age so you might just get noiser valvetrain, less power, less fuel efficiency. Of course the risk in not checking the clearances is if the clearance got too tight and the valves didn't close all the way.

Yep. In response to post title, failed thermostat could not cause temp gauge to rise to hot and lose heat from the heater. Failed closed could cause the cooling system to run hot but that would give you great heat. Failed open could cause the system to run cool with poor of heat but temp gauge would not rise to hot.

If you want brand new from Subaru, here's one $18 part # MSA5M9502B http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=2150 Or for $1 more you can get the 'OWNERS MANUAL INFO KIT FOR 1995 LEGACY (comes with oners manual, warranty sched, tire info and cklists bound in Leather Folding Case) part # MSA5M9502K.

(this for '00obw AT): 11CN1: CHECK ANY OTHER DTC ON DISPLAY CHECK: Does the Subaru Select Monitor or OBD-II general scan tool indicate DTC P1510, P1511, P1512, P1513, P1514, P1515, P1516 or P1517? YES: Inspect DTC P1510, P1511, P1512, P1513, P1514, P1515, P1516 or P1517 using "11. Diagnostics Chart with Trouble Code for AT Vehicles". NOTE: In this case, it is not necessary to inspect DTC P0507. NO: Go to step 11CN2 . 11CN2: CHECK AIR INTAKE SYSTEM. Turn ignition switch to ON. Start engine, and idle it. Check the following items. Loose installation of intake manifold, idle air control solenoid valve and throttle body Cracks of intake manifold gasket, idle air control solenoid valve gasket and throttle body gasket Disconnections of vacuum hoses CHECK: Is there a fault in air intake system? YES: Repair air suction and leaks. NO: Go to step 11CN3 . 11CN3: CHECK THROTTLE CABLE. CHECK: Does throttle cable have play for adjustment? YES: Go to step 11CN4 . NO: Adjust throttle cable. 11CN4: CHECK AIR BY-PASS LINE. Turn ignition switch to OFF. Remove idle air control solenoid valve from throttle body. Confirm that there are no foreign particles in by-pass air line. CHECK: Are foreign particles in by-pass air line? YES: Remove foreign particles from by-pass air line. NO: Replace idle air control solenoid valve.

Check for binding. It should make the turn at idle or with very light throttle. Any popping, banging, hanging up, feeling like the brakes on could mean torque bind. To see if the AWD is working, I'd say get on some snow or gravel or mud or something and get the wheels to spinning. You might need someone outside the vehicle to verify that at least one front and one rear wheel spin.

Cold. Clearance specs should be on underhood sticker. Just did this job on my '00obw 2.5L.

Hm that is a nice looking ATF cooler kit. I didn't know such an OEM kit was available. Installation looks pretty straightforward. That's one neat thing about Subaru's plain 'ol hose and barb connections - they're easy to work with without the special tools needed on so many other manuf's proprietary connectors. Some aftermarket coolers come with a fan, such as permacool, but I don't know if those would fit in between the condensor and bumper. The fan just increases the cooling capacity, mainly at low speeds or standstill. subaruplatt, the cooler does not appear to have a thermostat, unless I missed something. To 'turn it off' in the winter, on mine I put a piece of reflectix insulation in front of it to block airflow.

Did you fix the keyway and is the timing crank sprocket not have a lot of freeplay, etc? Use a code reader to check for and codes. Triple check all the timing marks. A couple teeth off and it won't start. Not sure about the dohc but the sohc have arrows and marks on the cam sprockets and the arrows are not the timing marks. Make sure cam and crank position sensors are reinstalled correctly and connected.

To check for leaks, you could charge with a can of the system's refrigerant, perhaps containing uv dye. Then you should hear where the leak is optionally using a mechanics stethescope and/or blacklight to pinpoint. As nipper said, if you repair the system yourself, you must pull a vacuum, as near perfect as possible, on the system before recharging. Atmosphere is a contaminant, especially moisture. If you want to recharge yourself, you could get one of those vacuum pullers that runs on shop air, maybe $10 at harbor freight or more elsewhere. Or you could get a deep vacuum vacuum pump but a good one is a couple hundred bucks.

In addition to the '90'-94 I see a lot of people like the '95 & '96 2.2L. Someone mentioned in an earlier post the '96 Outback with MT was 2.2L. The potential head gasket issue 2.5L's are still a great vehicle if you are willing/prepared to have it fixed if/when needed.

That's true....bling bling would be better

Could try 'parts wanted' in the the 'marketplace' section of this board, or a local or online salvage/scrap yard.

Does PA check if the ABS lamp illuminates at all? In NY they check that if they tell the CEL/MIL to illuminate and it doesn't (i.e. bulb blown or removed), that's an automatic fail; not sure about the ABS light...

Dang well it sounds like a sweet ride nonetheless! Reminds me of that commerical from a couple years back...'Grandpa! You owned a Harley!? Na, I spent the money on aluminum siding....'

Hi nipper! Not sure if this is the info you're looking for but I found it on subarupartsforyou 86321AC120 Outback 1996-1999 Antenna ANTENNA ASSEMBLY POWER FOR ALL LEGACY OUTBACK WAGONS 96-99 $123 $109 86323AC030 Outback 1995-1999 Antenna Antenna Rod & Nut For Power Antenna FOR 1995-1999 LEGACY OUTBACK WAGONS $52 $49

Hm that's an interesting idea. Say, once the wheel is jacked up and axle nut removed and hub carrier bolts removed, does the hub pretty much just pull right off or does it require some coaxing?

Check timing belt idlers, espcially the geared/toothed one near the water pump. Reseal oil pump and replace o-ring. Make sure oil pump rear cover screws are tight - they tended to sometimes loosen up. Double check wiring pinouts between 2.2L and 2.5L. Might want to have some on hand either way! Should be workable from what I've seen without too many issues and researching first like you've been doing is a very smart idea.

A big chain wrench will hold the crank sprocket for tightenting. It can also be used for loosening or the breaker bar starter bump method works too. You can get the official holder from subaru.spx.com but I think it's about $100.

Hi starsea. Just to clarify, you don't have an H6 right?