porcupine73

https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html

Check your manual. ATF type is probably just Dexron which is very common. I've tried autozone house brand, mobil 1 syn atf, and amsoil syn atf and all work great. The newest 5spd models spec Idemitsu or something that is hard to find. For timing belt, water pump, tensioner, idlers, front cam seals, front crank seal, etc I would stick with OEM on all these parts. On these kinds of items yes aftemarket may be OK but why chance it when the Subaru OEM parts are of proven good quality on these items. Buy from an online Subaru dealer to save some $ over going to local dealer and paying walk in price. For wheel wheel trim/plastic, etc, a junk/scrap/salvage yard is probably going to be cheapest. Brand new OEM from dealer most expensive. For trim adhesive, Subaru specs Cemedine products. Never tried to find it. Whatever trim adhesive the local parts store has might work OK.

Sounds like the rack might be getting tired. Does it seem worse right after startup or when cool?

On that year pulling the battery cable should be sufficient. I'm not sure why it didn't work for you in the past. Of course if the problem isn't actually fixed the light may come back on. Otherwise any normal ODBII code reader should be able to clear it. Autozone should be able to reset it but some of these places don't like to clear codes.

Might want to check with ccrengines.com for prices. AFIAK the 2.2L should work but it isn't going to have the power of the 2.5 dohc that was in there (if that matters to you).

The '00obw are supposed to get the coolant conditioner though for the potential external HG leak, though hopefully they don't have the internal issue with blowing exhaust gas into the coolant.

mm...did you check the idle air control valve?

But seriously, you would hope the dealership would have morals. Some do, some don't and like any relationship you won't really know the person until you run into a problem. Anyway the car sounds like a nice ride. I'd work 'em down on price though. I've seen other timing chain posts and read a few on other boards where Subaru covered the work under warranty. I don't recall the exact problem. If they're selling you some sort of third party warranty, care must be taken. You have to ask what does it cover and what does it NOT cover. A lot of times those warranties are not worth it especially with Subaru's.

Hi sube12, sounds like a nice ride! I'm not sure about the I, but maybe it stands for the International in STI. I saw on Subaru's marketing info Web site the new standard is STI rather than STi. On some other makes I think it stands for intercooled.

Alright and welcome back! You asked about things to watch for, the obvious ones: torque bind, FWD fuse installed, tires matching, etc. I used to live in Brockport.

I think B11 is the 'chassis code' which I think is on one of the plaquards inside the driver door and/or underhood. I've never looked for it though.

Can you maybe use alligator clip or other jumper wires to make the connection without cutting the tape?

Excellent. Do you know all the stuff to check while you're doing the timing belt? Like water pump&gasket, front cam seals, front crank seal, reseal oil pump, replace toothed idler near water pump, use new tensioner or make sure the one in there is in good condition to last another 105k, reseal oil pump&replace pump discharge to block o-ring, etc.

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf

I'm pretty sure (hoping!) that cam sprocket holder tool svxpert showed works for both the sohc 2.2L and 2.5L. You can get it from subaru.spx.com (they have ALL subaru special service tools in fact I think they're the manufacturer). The price was I think about $66 when I bought it. You have to request a quote; they don't show prices on the Web site. I don't recall the part # off hand but I think it was 499207100.

I would use the grease only if it specifically says good for CV joints. Generally CV joint greases are great for wheel bearings too, but not the other way around. Redline CV-2 from a race shop or summitracing.com might be a nice choice. If the joint you're working on can't be fully disassembled to flush out all the old grease, then I'd stick with OE grease. Not all greases mix well together. If you order a kit from a dealer or online dealer, you'll get a nice new boot, bands, and grease.

Wow it sounds like you covered all the usual suspects already. Are there any exhaust restrictions/excessive backpressure maybe?

I forgot to welcome you to the board! Welcome! The MAF could still be flaky even with cleaning. Do you have any aftermarket cold air intake or anything installed? How about your TPS adjustment?

How did you clean the MAF? Did you clean the throttle butterfly and stuff? They like to get caked up real nice. How's the knock sensor?

Hm okay cool. Do you know what brand? Dying it red would make sense to be able to tell it apart from other fluids on those pesky leaks/drips and stuff.

Sounds like a nice ride! Should just be like a gl-5 80w-90 gear oil. Actually I've never seen a gear oil dyed red. ATF is normally dyed red and some racing engine oils. Some people have had issues with mobil1 syn gear oil eating something in the MT's. Should be fine, just don't park on hay piles. Some say missing heat shields near the cv joints might let more heat to the boot.

I thought it was 'International' like subaru technica international? But then they recently changed to STI instead of STi. Or how's about Intercooled?

Good point, don't want to forget those! Replace at least the geared timing belt idler 13085AA080 near the water pump, and maybe a new tensioner. Replace rear main seal retainer with a metal one if you have plastic. Reseal oil pump (remove, check rear case screws for back out, maybe put a little green loctite on, replace pump to block o-ring, reseal with permatex ultragrey or anaerobic), check whatever those clutch related bearings are such as pilot, throwout, etc., replace thermostat&gasket since water pump will be off anyway.

That was from http://www.subarupartsforyou.com in the wiper arms section.

Hm...that is a good option. 86532AC290 Outback 1995-2004 Wiper Arms REAR WIPER ARM FOR 1995-2004 LEGACY OUTBACK WAGONS ALL. List about $36. edit: Looks like installation could be a pain though...