porcupine73

I feel a similar thing in my '96 and '00. I've just gotten used to it. Feather a touch from the stop, then punch it. Sometimes it seems if you press the gas a little while letting of the brake it doesn't do it. If I let off the brake and then just hit the gas it lurches/winds up like that.

Hi mks64 and welcome! Did you by any chance have any of the axle half shafts/cv joints replaced with aftermarket rebuilts units right before this problem started?

Hi, yes, all you need is typically for key to be in the run position.

Absolutely hands down for me it's kanolabs Kroil. This stuff is great. For anti-sieze, I like the nickel nuclear grade from McMaster.

It's not too hard; sometimes breaking the old o2 sensor free to remove it can be a little tricky. But if you use good penetrating oil a couple days before the job and warm the exhaust up for a minute before the removal it should come right out. I don't think so. I mean they could read the voltage signal with an advanced scantool but your average parts store isn't going to have or do that. No, most aftermarket parts are not an 'upgrade'. Stick with OEM on this one.

Good advice Snowman! I had a similar issue after R&R'ing the injectors. A dead easy way to check for leaks is to use the invaluable mechanic's stethescope around each injector with engine running. I could hear small leaks easily that I could not at all hear with the naked ear. Another way to find the leak would probably be the trusty smoke machine. I've heard great things about them but they're $$$ though it should be possible to build one.

I'd never heard of Motomaster but I guess that's Canadian Tire's line of products? If so I'd guess it's just a private label made by one of the big blenders who label wal-mart oil, etc. As long as it is dexron iii it should work Ok I would guess.

You could do that. Just make sure to watch the shop to be certain they actually use the fluid you gave them, unless they have a 'synthetic' option of their own. Many of those shops just have a couple of base fluids and then they use the Lubeguard additives to 'convert' it to the fluid type needed for the application. That's usually more for the Nissan's and stuff (and newer suby's that want that indemnitsu or whatever fluid). Anyway, for the pump and dump, you just need to find the atf cooler hoses going to the radiator. On my '96 they're on the LH (driver's) side of the radiator. On my '00obw it's much easier to get at since it's at the very bottom of the radiator. Just pull off one of those hoses or from some other pipe that hose connects to (hose pliers may be helpful here to rotate the hose to break it loose before pulling), then use some vinyl tube from Home Despot to route both the hose you removed and the barb on the radiator into a bucket or old milk jug. By using two vinyl tubes you don't have to worry about which line is the supply and which is the return. Then after changing the fluid add an extra quart or so and fire 'er up. When about two quarts have pumped out, shut the engine off. Then add another two quarts to the AT. Then fire 'er up again, etc, until good clean fluid is coming out into the jug. One of the secrets to success with this method is keeping good track of how much fluid you got out and how much you put in to keep it in balance.

I was kind of bored so I thought I'd put up some pics of the winter front on my '00obw. It's made out of Reflectix insulation from Home Despot. It keeps that pesky salt air and too much frigid air from getting in there during hiway cruising and overcooling of the ATF and PS fluid. You know, like how the big trucks have those zippered winter fronts.

Maybe a dum question but are you sure the new thermostat is in the right direction?

You could run the TransSynd in this application. It's a pretty good fluid. Last I knew the only company Allison had licensed to make this fluid was Castrol I think. It has no VII (viscosity index improvers) to shear back, which it shouldn't need anyway if it's synthetic. amsoil makes a transsynd fluid that they kind of reverse engineered. If I were doing the multiple drain and refills, between fills I'd at least get her out on the road up to like 40mph to make sure it goes through 1,2,3,4 and reverse.

Did you do anything to/with the thermostat? Was the timing belt tensioner in good shape?

You can do that mix but ideally a lot of oil makers like at least 90% fresh fluid in the system. Seriously, the pump and dump method of pulling one of the hoses off the atf cooler works very well and is relatively easy to do. It gets you a goodly amount of fresh fluid with less fluid waste than multiple drain and fills. As far as brands, mobil1 is very nice and is available retail. I'm running amsoil syn atf right now seems really nice too. Haven't tried but have heard good things about redline and schaefferoil. There was this awesome small blender SpecialtyFormulations but they're moving so they're down for at least a couple months. I had a bit of a similar experience to what you're saying in my '00obw. The first winter it just wouldn't put much power to the rears. This winter I was on stop and go sheer ice for about two hours. So with every creep forward I'd hit the throttle a little bit to spin the tires. At first it was just the fronts spinning. Then after about an hour of doing this, the rears started to work a lot better. Now she'll spin the front and rear. I think the clutch packs were glazed and this action combined with fresh good atf cleaned them up.

http://www.schaefferoil.com/specialty/132.html http://www.speedpartz.com/schaeffer_moly_treatment.htm

If I were doing the dohc I'd use the cam locking tool. But my understanding is as long as you line up the timing marks per the service manual before removing the old belt, if the cams snap, they will tend to snap in a direction away from damage so you can turn them back to where they came from when putting the new belt on.

I have an '00obw with a 5 wire front o2 sensor which I assumed meant wideband. I saw something about it in this post but maybe it isn't right.

If no crank as nipper said could be starter contact set. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/StarterServiceWin03.pdf

The o2 sensor is about $100 bucks. If you replace it do yourself a favor and buy an OEM sensor. Don't even mess with aftermarket on this one. It'll be a 5/6 wire wideband. Some of the '00obw's had recalls on the front o2 sensor for tip cracking. How long has it bee since the battery was disconnected?

I'm guessing you mean no crank at all at first? Or do you mean it cranks but doesn't start?

Could try some Schaeffer's #132 moly E.P., that stuff is thick and good. JBweld could be worthy of a ghetto try; it can take 500 deg. F. If you need a lot you could try to get their large industroweld size. I never could find anywhere that had the large size but there are other products like PC-2 I think it was I got at Ace.

The scangauge has some function deep in the menus like more more more that lets you configure custom information to transmit to the ECU. Kind of like a macro I guess. I haven't tried it either. I'm afraid it might send the 'reflash ECU' message and then welllll whooops!

Sounds good man! We got a little bit here in Buffalo but not 4 feet like you. Yes the Subaru rules the snow doesn't it! The only time I couldn't make it out the driveway was when the deep snow started to pile up in front of 'er and roll onto the hood.

Another great choice could be Redline CV-2 grease, but you'd have to find a race shop or order it online to get it.

Might want to check out the stuff at good 'ol Harbor Freight. I think the main thing you need to do a windshield is some piano wire with handles to 'saw' through the existing windshield's sealant.

Yah just replace all that stuff. At least the spark plug hole seals. They tend to compress with time and result in oil in the spark plug holes. The bolt hole seals, well if you don't replace them and you see a couple that are leaking afterward it's pretty easy to just pull that bolt and replace that one.