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Everything posted by porcupine73
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Yes same thing happens on my '96 too. I think water gets on/in something near the cable thingy on the AT and then freezes. Spraying silicone in that area seems to help usually. Yes I can get it out of park with key in run, engine off, step on brake, solenoid clicks, then can pull out of park with engine not running.
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Hi gofargogo! 1. Did you give her some gas to see if the front started turning? Are you sure maybe the passenger side front wheel wasn't spinning too but just didn't notice? Unless you have a locking rear diff it is entirely possible for one rear tire to spin and the other rear tire to just sit there. 2. I'd have to look up that code, but typically for front o2 sensors OEM is highly suggested. 3. The front sway bar hasn't busted has it? Not sure what your options are for stiffer clearance, other than KYB GR-2's maybe. Higher clearance would mean lift kit or maybe lift springs such as king springs from australia.
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Hello, and welcome! It's not necessary to drain the differential to replace the axle half shaft (the dealy with the inner and outer cv joints). However, they may have inadvertently drained it, at least somewhat, if they purposely or inadvertently pulled the stub shaft out of the differential during the work. If the above were the case, they probably wouldn't have pulled the drain plug, so I'm not sure how the dealer is determining that the fluid was drained previously. So the half shaft just plain busted somewhere? Was that an aftermarket rebuilt half shaft that was put in when the work was done?
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Here's the pic; this is the throttle body to return pipe heater hose I ordered, although it does seem to look a little different from the engine pic Skip posted. The hose is fairly flexible and I can easily move it to the needed shape without kinking. It appears to be 7.5mm hose based on the label, which would be right around 5/16"
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Yes, but ok, maybe it's more than somewhat dreaded. It's talked about some amount on the suby boards. For AT's, it happens when the 'transfer case' (clutch pack in rear extension housing of the AT) kind of cold weld together. There's also a solenoid in the AT (the duty c) that if it fails will cause torque bind. With torque bind the vehicle will kind of bind up when turning especially in tight turns, or it may feel like someone is stepping on the brake when turning. Sometimes a series of ATF changes corrects it; otherwise the clutch pack can be replaced. Rather than torque bind, sometimes if the clutches glaze then the AWD doesn't work very well.
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Hello and welcome! Sounds like a pretty nice buy. Plus the dohc that should make a little better power. You could at least have them checked for warpage. If it was overheated enough they might be warped. I don't think so, unless it was severely overheated. From what I've seen the heads can be removed without pulling the engine. Unless you're pulling the engine to do other things anyway, such as rear main seal and replacing plastic oil separator plate with metal, or replacing clutch if it's an MT, etc.
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Well the Forester XT's (turbo) are pretty darn quick. I've heard some people say the Forester is as aerodynamic as a brick. But I don't know, I kind of like it, the hood scoop is cool. It's nice for a small SUV. Personally I would probably go with a turbo outback wagon since it has more cargo room. The Forester was/is based on the impreza. Hopefully the battery stays charged well!