porcupine73

I had this problem before. I wrapped cardboard around the very top of the shaft and squeezed on vise grips as hard as I could. Then used socket (or impact wrench would be nice) to remove nut. The very top of the strut won't ever pass through the seals anyway so I figured even if I gouged it up no biggie. If penetrating oil is needed I know of nothing better than kanolabs kroil.

I surely don't know but am envious as the hub tamer is one sweet tool. I think there was an article on endwrench with pictures about the svx tool for this job; maybe that would be helpful? And I do recall discussion about similar a Harbor Freight tool and whether it would be suitable...

Well if you're willing to spring the $160 or so, you could get a ScanGauge. They're really nice for leaving connected all the time a gauge for all kinds of parameters. Plus instant reading of MIL/CEL as soon as you notice it. It does not give the description; just the code, so you'd need a list with you. Or in my case last month my cel/mil came on, pressed the 'scan' button, it read the infamous 'P0420' code, which I knew was catalyst efficiency below threshold since it's somewhat common, poof, press the 'clear' button and the cel/mil went off, this all within about 10 seconds of the light coming on, while driving. If you want an inexpensive reader, harbor freight probably can't be beat for value, especially if you sign up on their web site and get the periodic 15% of any item in the retail store coupons combined with buying an item on sale. Many HF items look identical (and probably are!) to those sold in various retail stores for twice or more the price.

Any cheapo code reader that says it works on that model year should work. I'd guess the less expensive ones just display the code like 'P0420' or whatever. Either way it'd be best to pack a printout of the codes and their meanings in the glove box with the reader, especially for the P1/2nnn codes as those are manufacturer specific.

Yah I wouldn't worry too much. That '97 2.5 was in the range that had some number of HG failures. Maybe Subaru did a Six Sigma project on the HG issue.

Hi and welcome! Does it say on any of the underhood stickers?

Is it OK to use power steering fluid in the suby's? The ones I have call for ATF in the power steering unit. When you say 'a little torque bind in very loose pee gravel' do you mean it binds in this gravel but is fine on pavement?

I don't think so, because if you put the shifter in '1' and then make a turn, it doesn't bind up or anything like it would if making a turn with this switch cutting power to the duty c.

Interesting question. Something I read indicated overdrive typically means the transmission output rotation speed is higher than the input rotation speed, plus a few other details.

Hi, as you stated, yes, "TCU supplies power to this solenoid and the switch is supposed to interupt it". Just for reference, the TCU supplies a (I suspect square wave) signal at some frequency of variable duty cycle. No power to duty c = basically 50/50 front/rear power split. The secret to success with this modification is CAREFUL AND THOUGHTFUL use. It should never ever be used on dry or simply wet pavement. Mud, deep snow, sand, sheer ice would be cases where it might be useful, and even then probably just for starting from a standstill.

Hi Dennis. Hohieu's teeth counts sound right. I had the same problem on my '00 2.5l sohc. I was really confused because the teeth counts in the manual are just plain impossible. Maybe they're for the 2.2L. The geared/toothed belt idler is often a good candidate for replacement.

Maybe your idle air control valve is sticky. Basically all the sensors other than O2 sensor are used to determine the amount of fuel to inject in open loop: MAP or MAF, intake air temp, throttle position, engine coolant temp, etc.

Hi David and welcome! You'll find a couple excellent (and free!) articles right from Subaru complete with pictures on endwrench.com; just click 'archives' and search for 'timing'. Articles such as this one will appear. It also has the procedure for recompressing the tensioner. Many people also replace the geared/toothed idler near the water pump as that is the most likely idler to fail. Depending on mileage replacing the water pump is often done as well, as well as the front cam seals behind the cam sprockets, the front crank seal on the oil pump behind the crank sprocket. Also some remove the oil pump to replace the o-ring between the pump and block and make sure the rear case cover screws aren't backing out.

I've never done this job, but one thing I've seen repeatedly is to make sure that the shaft seats fully upon attachment of engine to AT (based on measurement); otherwise a pump in the AT may fracture shortly thereafter.

I used 5/16" (1/4" too small) SAE something fuel injection hose. Make absolutely sure you get FUEL INJECTION HOSE. There is fuel hose for carb vehicles that is not rated for the pressure of fuel injection. I bought Thermoid brand in a 10 foot or so spool of eBay for like $25. The auto parts store will want like $4-$5 a foot for this hose.

Is that worn valve stems? Sounds like a neat trick either way. I saw this smokescreen trick when I was behind an old pickup truck. I had to slow down because I couldn't see through the smoke cloud.

Your oil separator plate is plastic (unless someone already replaced it previously). You want the updated metal version. It has another name in the service manual, seal retainer or something like that. How about new plug wires too? Yes, the rear case cover refers to the oil pump. Some of the oil pumps had a tendancy for the rear case cover screws to loosen/back out thus resulting in oil leaking past the front crank seal.

Sounds like a good list so far. Replace geared idler near water pump (other idlers may be OK). Consider replacing water pump? Replace oil pump o-ring and check for rear case cover screws backing out. Replace cam retainer cap o-rings. By seals I assume you mean at least front cam seals and front crank seal (on oil pump).

Seems like there was a post about this not very long ago. My guess is this change was done to reduce the number of spare parts that Subaru needs to stock. Maybe you could get at least the air box from a salvage yard?

Hi Charles and welcome! Your biggest concern will probably be making sure you get the same gear ratio as what you have now. Front and rear diffs with gear ratios, well, don't play nicely together.

I'd put the Saab(aru?) back on the road. Were Saabs Saab(aru's) back in '90? Anyway your valve checking job might be a little uglier as that's got the DOHC I'm guessing so valves might have smacked each other in addition to smacking the pistons.

Hi! What's the model, year, mileage, and trans type? Maybe your idle air control valve (IACV) is gunked up? Any check engine light or anything? Any pattern like temperature, raining/not raining, does it when warm only, cold only, both, etc?

I'd change the fluid. You won't necessarily notice any difference in operation. However, the fluid shears, oxidizes, gets dirty since there is just a screen 'filter' on the phase I, etc. You may also preempt any torque bind that may be developing. Note that just removing the drain plug removes only about half the fluid since it doesn't drain the torque converter. There are a couple ways to get the rest out. The cost depends on where you have it done and what fluid you have put in (i.e. synthetic or dino).

Anyone think engine coolant temp sensor could cause it, or does that just cause warm/hot start issues? Or maybe you have a little water in your fuel system that started to ice up? I've had what you describe happen sometimes when cranking the starter but accidentally letting off the key before it starts. Then sometimes it takes a goodly amount of cranking to actually get it to start.

A tip I've heard that supposedly works very well on frozen on rotors is an impact hammer run between the studs. Heck Harbor Freight has one on sale for $5 now.