porcupine73

Do they happen to have a part number on them or is it just a big bag of parts? The o-ring I used was 10991AA001 but this was on an '00.

I can't see how a little sealant or as mentioned grease on it to hold it in place while the pump is fitted is going to hurt. The biggest problem I had was yes the o-ring is a little loose in the groove. On the first attempt it fell out and I didn't notice it. Fortunately I pulled the pump off to double check and saw it. A bit of grease or something to hold it in place would help.

Have you checked the booster for proper operation? I don't remember the entire procedure off hand. I couldn't find it off hand and I don't remember what vehicles it covered, but there is a TSB for some vehicles having gone out with the wrong master cylinder. The symptom was lower than normal pedal feel but supposedly that was the only issue; no impact on brake functionality.

You can't go wrong with one of the NGK plugs listed in your manual.

That timing belt interval is probably 60k miles. The cal spec belt (kevlar aramid) might have been 105k miles. That's a 2.2L right? That should be the non-interference so if the belt breaks no damage, just stranded. You should be able to take off the LH (driver) outer belt cover easily for inspection. To remove the RH timing outer cover you have to get the crank pulley off first. Yes, in the climate control center it is backlit. However the bulbs blowing out is very very common. There are threads on how to fix it and even put in LED's instead of incandescent for longer life.

Hi. I used a four wire Bosch universal before; it shows in the instructions how to wire it up. It took about 15 minutes to just make sure I knew which wire was which. However, it seems that the front OEM O2 sensor is highly recommended. The rear aftermarket is OK. Especially on the '01 as that may have the six wire wideband front O2 sensor. I currently have 20k miles on a Bosch universal front o2 in my '96 legacy without issues.

Hm...any chance of any of the Subaru brothers on this board picking up the remains?

It could be the clearance between the cam sprocket and cam position sensor is too large after the accident. Did anything in that area get shifted? This can cause the engine to stall or not start.

Looks like you get the starter with that one too. Say you bought an engine off ebay recently too right? How did you get it? Did the truck have a liftgate or something? Or maybe it's not super heavy?

It's a classic symptom of alternator issues.

Wow I didn't read the whole story, but yah, I stopped at amco one time and did not like the experience at all so I left. Maybe a salvage yard tranny would be the way to go.

Yah I'd stick with NGK for the Suby's. I've run a couple types including the iridium and they work great. Even the iridiums were only like $5 or $6 each I think.

Hey congratulations on the ride! It sounds nice. I look forward to seeing the pics!

Don't forget your cam cap/retainer o-rings. Also oil pump rear case screws might have had a tendancy to back out on this engine?

My '96 I can smell a little raw gasoline in the exhaust on startup. I'd guess if any of the sensors such as MAF/MAP/ECT is real inacurate maybe it might make it run extra rich? Or if there's a vacuum leak maybe making some cylinders run rich. I love the smell of gasoline in the morning....it smells like...victory.

Yep that's correct. I learned before doing the timing belt by observing the engine whilst running. Is this typically the rotation on most gasoline engines, or does it vary by make/model/etc?

And what was the actual P0xxx or P1xxx code you read?

I noticed this recall for rear subframe corrosion, but it's only for 00-02MY Legacy and Outback: My favorite part:

Well Summit lists only two speed bleeders for all Subaru applications, either 10mm x 1.0 Thread, 35mm Overall Length; or 7mm x 1.0 Thread, 34mm Overall Length. The 7mm shows only two applications: 1997 Legacy and 87-88 Justy.

Sounds good JPX! What you say is so true. I've found that if you have the bleeder open just a little but build up enough vacuum in the collection chamber, it gives you a chance to push the brake pedal slowly to the floor a few times. I've found sometimes I get some extra gunk out the system this way. I think the vacuum method works great for changing the fluid by yourself. I usually do it once a year whilst changing from snow to summer tires.

Yep, Summit had speed bleeders in my size. I think the brand was Russell. I believe it was 10mm x some thread. I can't imagine it's much different from Suby model to model. Anyway, I figure if someone is going to drop $50 on a mityvac they could just spring the extra $10-$15 to get a huge tube of silicone grease from a place such as McMaster. Or maybe the mityvac includes a small tube; the crapsman I bought included a pittance.

What kind of plugs are you running? If they're not iridium or platinum sounds like they're due for a change anyway. I have yet to have an issue with NGK's. Do you think the IACV (or as Subaru sometimes calls it the ISCV idle speed control valve) might be all gummed up? Maybe your intake and throttle butterfly is all coked up.

That's an interesting kit. It's cheap enough. I don't know if I'd use that particular kit because it almost seems too cheap. I mean you want good quality components, especially hose, in a kit like that because failure could mean serious damage to your engine. I also don't like hose barb fittings for pressurized engine oil. There are other such kits available with hydraulic hose and hydraulic fittings, albeit of course more costly. Increased engine oil capacity can be a good thing in maybe extending drain intervals a bit. Increased capacity is not necessarily good if you make a lot of short trips. Any engine oil cooler should be used with a thermostat.

I like it's basicness, especially the manual windows and locks. The only real thing I don't like about the manual windows is it difficult to open/close the assenger window while driving. Your project sounds good. I have a '96 brighton and am working on similar changes. I knew nothing about Subaru's (esp trim levels) when I bought it except it had AWD and was well rated for reliability. Plus I could use a CD player.

Hi bgambino, nope I haven't gotten to the job yet, it will probably be a month or so. I'm guessing/hoping the rusted out looking section there is actually the old gasket. From looking at it underneath the vehicle that's what it appeared to be to me. But I guess I'll find out when I disconnect the union there. If it is too rusted out I hope it's on the resonator side and not the cat side. My next job is timing belt/water pump/idlers/etc/etc/etc on my '96. I need to tackle the more reliability critical jobs first so I always have at least one reliable vehicle ready to go.