porcupine73

Hi skip, it's the Scan Gauge, you can get it here $165; (I think they're the manufacturer but I can't remember; maybe it's less elsewhere). If you look on eBay you might find it, just verify which model it is as I think there is an older one and this newer one. I really love it and you can display four parameters at once in 'gauge' mode, like intake air temp, water temp, MAF or MAP, voltage, rpm, speed, ignition advance, throttle position, engine load %, and I"m sure I'm forgetting a few. You set it up with your engine size, etc., and it computes mpg (fairly accurately) while driving and gives trip/day/tank averages, etc. Nipper has the newer model; I have the older model. Just one note about it for Subaru's (in case you get one) - certain model Subaru's you have to set this option in there for 'supported' parameters instead of 'all' parameters or it won't display any values.

Hi Tiny, I've never tried it, but may electronics cleaner wouldn't be a bad thing to try if possible before springing for that $200 one at autozone. Ja das is zu viel geld. Was fur ein probleme?

Just spring for an alldatadiy subscription. That is the cheapest legal way to get OE Suby repair info.

Yes the Suby's last a long time don't they! I mean I have 10 months to see if this issue recurs every few weeks or whatever and try a few things to stop it or at least hope it doesn't pop right before the inspection. It hasn't come back yet. If I had to go for inspection next week I'd be more worried since I'd have to time to work with it.

Do you hear any relay clicking sound when pressing the horn button? Checking any related fuses wouldn't be a bad idea as well. Do you notice anything else electrical that doesn't work?

Oh boy. Did the horn not work previously or is this a recent thing? I don't know earlier models, does this have a fuse box under the hood and under the dash? Maybe you can try jiggling/shaking some wiring harnesses in the areas to see if that makes a difference? All problems have the potential to be expensive.

Yes that is a good point; on both '96 and '00 suby's i have the lighter socket doesn't work unless key is in acc or run. If the fuse is blown, then hopefully it's from a short or too much load on something that was plugged in there.

Yep, if the fuse looks blown just pop in a new one. If it blows again then of course there are other issues. Make sure there isn't like a staple or paperclip or anything in the lighter socket/outlet.

Yep, I have to pass a NY emissions test, not the Westchester one, but all the readiness monitors must be set and the CEL/MIL can't be on. Fortunately my current inspection is good for about 10 more months.

Just give them your VIN when you buy it, that'll assure you get the right part. Otherwise if you look at some of the plaquards on the vehicle like under the hood and stuff it might say.

I checked and I did replace the rear o2 sensor about 10k miles ago. I made about 4 'trips' since resetting the light yesterday and the light hasn't come back on. Anyway, the vehicle seems to running exceptionially smoothly and powerfully since that light has come on and with better mileage, maybe that Valero gas is better than what I was buying previously.

Yep, here's a link to the chain wrench I used. It seems to be very nice quality for the price. HF is awesome for great deals. OK, so maybe some of the stuff isn't the highest quality and it's all made in China, but it's a fun place to shop. I wrapped a piece of an old accessory belt around the crank pulley to protect it whilst loosening the bolt which was very tight. Of course getting the bolt back in properly is critical so it doesn't loosen up over time and damage the crank snout. I looked at that kit you mentioned on eBay and from appearance it looks good, it looks a lot like OE, the pulley colors might be a little different but who knows maybe it's worth a shot. A '92 would be non-interference so that's good.

How many miles are on the vehicle? If anything like plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, o2 sensor, etc. are due for changing or are suspectable I'd change them out with OE components. How's the throttle butterfly look? I peek at mine by taking out the air filter, opening the throttle a little and looking in there with a mirror and shop light, of course maybe your year has drive by wire? Does this vehicle have a MAF or a MAP?

Possibly, the starter bump trick with a socket and breaker bar properly wedged against the body. Harbor Freight has a suitable chain wrench for $20.

I am incorrect. With those two sensors so close to each other I wonder why the temp gauge doesn't show any flucuation even when idling hot enough for the fans to come on.

Plus at the dealer you can drool over all the new vehicles in the showroom whilst getting the oil change done. Maybe if you buy like a '5 pack' of oil changes or something they'll give a discount. I used iffy lube many a time while in college with no issues but I'm far too nervous to use them anymore.

Been getting mine at subaru-parts-dealer.com, a place in the dakotas, seems to be good prices and service so i haven't tried anywhere else (yet), their parts come from the Subaru Denver regional distribution center.

Go for it and change it. generally I think the suggested is like 80w90 front and 75w90 rear. i run amsoil severe gear syn 75w140 in both suby's. gear oil may not look 'dirty', but it can shear so dirt (shavings/etc) is not the only factor.

Typically CTS is near water pump suction; ECTS is near block outlet to radiator.

I know it is tempting when seeing low prices but I would stick with OE parts. Yes they may cost a little more but you know what you're getting and a history of reliability. If you buy them online from a Subaru dealer (not from a local dealer) you will be able to get them for maybe not a whole lot above dealer cost. But it also depends on what you use the car for; if it's used for work and there is no spare/backup vehicle then I would not skimp. If it's just a short drive to work and/or there is backup vehicle in the driveway then the risk might be worth it.

CTS is for the temp gauge. ECTS is for the computer/ECU which controls the fans. Not sure of a third? Sensor on steering pump can be for pressure for the ECU to bump up the idle a little bit if needed or I'm not sure if there's a warning lamp for the P.S. I don t think so...

Hi yogi and welcome! Are you maybe feeling a little driveline shock with the TC locked up when the agressive cruise control gets back on the throttle after coasting?

If you've done a timing belt before you should find the Subaru job pretty easy and a huge savings over having it done at a dealer. Just pick up your OE parts online and you should be good to go. Nipper's list looks good to me. Usually the toothed/geared idler near the water pump is the troublesome one. If you search on EndWrench.com you can usually find some good information about these jobs.

Thanks for the help guys. The recall front o2 sensor replacement (WXW-80) was done at 77,821 miles on 11/15/03 (prior to my buying the car used). I'll double check tonight to see if I already replaced the rear o2 sensor on this vehicle (or if it was on the '96); if not I'll put it in (OE). Cleared the code, will see if it comes back, wow the scangauge is so handy for that since you can just press the button and read and clear the code immediately without even pulling over. The front o2 sensor recall replacement was: Recall - O2 Sensor Replacement NUMBER: WXW-80 DATE: 01/2001 APPLICABILITY:2000MY Subaru Legacy and Outback 4EAT 2000MY Impreza 2.5 RS MT5 or 4EAT 2000/2001 MY Forester MT5 or 4EAT SUBJECT: Front Oxygen (Air/Fuel Ratio) Sensor Subaru of America, Inc. (SOA) has determined that the affected vehicles listed below may experience front oxygen Air/Fuel (A/F) sensor element cracking. Should this occur prior to replacement, the CHECK ENGINE warning light/Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will illuminate steadily while the engine is running advising the driver of a malfunction and the need to seek repair service. This program will involve replacement of the front oxygen (A/F) sensor on affected vehicles. Please Note : Because of the number of affected vehicles and part availability, this program will be released in phases determined by geographic location. Dealers will be notified of the release schedule when available. AFFECTED VEHICLES ^ 2000MY Subaru Legacy and Outback with 4EAT only ^ 2000MY Impreza 2.5 RS with MT5 or 4EAT ^ 2000/2001 MY Forester with MT5 or 4EAT

OK so the MIL/CEL came on the way into work this morning. Read it immediately with the scan gauge - P0420 which I already know is 'catalyst system efficiency below threshold' from other posts on here and alldata. No other codes reported. '00OBW 2.5L N/A AT 107k miles So I cleared it to see if it will come back. 1. I'm pretty sure I replaced the rear o2 sensor maybe 15k miles ago but I can't remember if it was on this '00obw or on the '96 so I'll have to check. 2. According to my.subaru.com the front o2 sensor was replaced at about 80k miles under recall (some piece could break off or something) 3. No noticed difference in performance; actually scan gauge was reporting record mileage for this vehicle today 29.9mpg; usually it's about 28.5 or so. 4. Bought premium gasoline last night at a relatively new 'Valero' station where I haven't bought from before.