porcupine73

Maybe it's not an O2 sensor causing the problem?

Hello, not sure about '01, but I have a '96 and an '00 and the fuel filter for both is in the same place as shown in pic below. It's about $20 for a new OE filter (which is silver, the black on in the pic is not OE). AFAIK it is not a 'lifetime' part.

Or the clutch packs might be really worn out?

Yah I think I better just leave it alone, especially after reading in the service manual "LOCK-UP DUTY SOLENOID This solenoid is mounted to the control valve, and its duty ratio is controlled by the signal sent from TCM. It then controls the lock-up control valve to provide smooth engagement and disengagement of the lock-up clutch." I just assumed this was an on/off control, but it is not, so slamming it on or off full power is probably not a good idea. I didn't want to make it lockup when it wasn't already, but rather unlock it when it was already locked. Anyway thanks for all the info and suggestions. As always everyone on this board is so kind and helpful!

Hi nipper, thanks for the info. The vehicle I was thinking of with that little button was a '03 explorer but it turns out it had a 5 speed AT (I thought it was 4 spd) so I think you're right the button locked it out of 5th. Well you know how in the Sub when you're cruising along at say 55mph and you give it a little gas and the rpm's jump up a little bit, I'm assuming that's the TC unlocking because if you move the shifter to 3 the rpm's go even higher. I'm also assuming it unlocks the TC there to give you more acceleration b/c the engine just can't pump out a lot of HP at low rpm like that. I just was wondering if I could make it do that manually when I want. I haven't figured why, if the TC locks in all gears, that if I stay in let's say 2nd, anytime you give it a little more gas you can see the rpm's raise up instantly. If the TC were locked then the rpm's would rise only in proportion as the speed started to increase.

Have you guys seen that CRC MAF cleaner at any of the parts stores yet?

Yes, it is more and more about efficiency and reduced costs isn't it. There aren't really many passenger vehicles that suggest extended oil change intervals esp. for 'severe service' operating conditions. The 'oil change monitors' are a somewhat recent thing I guess. Well there are a few factors involved there with diesels. HDD oils have a higher TBN (i.e. 12+) vs. gasoline engine oils which have maybe 8 if they're good, so the diesel oil can neutralize acidic by-products longer. Also, those diesels have much larger sump capacities than any passenger car. And those diesels don't make a lot of short trips so condensation and fuel dilution is less of a factor. With a good bypass filter and a good HDD oil in the engine the Subaru could easily run that oil 18,000 miles or more and get a good used oil analysis. Diesel oils also have more AW additives than PMCO.

When the fuse is in, it's FWD b/c the duty c is energized constantly.

Sounds interesting...I basically want to be able to force it to unlock for that little boost of acceleration when required on the highway without having to shift to third. Yes if you give it the right amount of throttle it will do that by itself but I want to be able to do it myself when I want. I've had other vehicles that had a little button on the shifter that unlocked the TC in top gear (if it was locked). I do have an ATF temp gauge (cyberdyne), a cooler (permacool), and also hydraulic filters. I suppose I could check out the wiring diagrams and give it a try to see what happens. I would guess (hope!) the worst would be the AT light would start flashing or something if it doesn't like it.

OK so I've seen the mod for cutting juice to the duty c to lock front/rear, is it possible with a potentially similar mod to enable/disable the torque converter? I would imagine if you just cut power to the TC lockup when it's supposed to be locked some light would come on like the AT would maybe think it is slipping or something.

'96 legacy, fuse holder is on firewall near the RH strut tower. '00OBW, FWD fuse in that fuse box near the battery. As far as I understand, the duty c's duty cycle is used to control pressure applied to the clutch pack. 0% duty cycle (off) = full pressure and basically a locked center. 100% duty cycle (on) (i.e. FWD fuse in) = no pressure, thus basically FWD. Normally the duty cycle is controlled to split the power front/rear.

It is possible for what you describe to happen but not necessarily likely. What brand synthetic were you running? Some synthetics have a fair amount of seal swell agents to prevent seal shrinkage and subsequent leakage; or some high ester content synthetics can cause seal swell and then possibly when you switch back to dino the seals could shrink back a little thus allowing leakage. If this happens I'm not sure how long it would take and I have not heard of it happening much especially not with newer oils. However, what 'seals' are leaking? RMS? front crank/cam seals? Were these replaced with OE parts during the rebuild?

Black electrical tape.

The typical 'nominal' micron rating is like 19 or 20. There's a whole system for testing micron ratings, like single pass efficiency, etc., I think nominal efficiency is it will catch at least 50% of particles that size and larger on the first pass but I can't remember. And there's the beta numbers. Anyway, it's always a tradeoff in the media between how small a particle it can filter and still have not too much pressure drop. If you want really small filtration, like 1 micron or even submicron, then you need to install a bypass filter in addition.

OK, well I'm having trouble finding the thread because this other board switched ubb versions so the old link I have doesn't work, but basically this guy says he "found a slick Mopar part that has M20x1.5 threads on one end and 3/4x16 on the other. It also has a little (about an inch) 'appendix' that I had to cut off, but I've been using it on my Subaru ever since." So you basically unbolt the existing filter nipple and put this modified nipple in place, and presto you can run 3/4" thread oil filters. Then you could maybe go with something like the 7" long Wix 51773 (but it's micron rating isn't super good): Height: 6.982" Diameter: 3.663"

Yah, I got the 'verifying ownership' thing too when trying to do it right after buying used; I think they e-mailed me and asked for proof of ownership, which I think I sent them my insurance sheet showing the VIN and my name and address and they were happy with that.

True, you need a good efficient filter media and a bypass that is well made and doesn't open prematurely. I've been using amsoil eao36 (crosses to Wix 51347) which is a bit longer than stock but it's not as big around and actually when calculating the volume they're about the same. In the 20mmx1.5mm thread size there's not a lot of large filters. Here's the two Wix equivalents I've tried: Thread Size: 20X1.5 MM Wix# height diameter bypass 51334 3.194" 3.252" 8-11psid 51347 4.828" 2.921" 8-11psid If you really want a bigger filter, I saw on another board about a guy who unscrewed the factory Subaru nipple for the filter and put in one from a Ford. This gives you like a 3/4" thread size (very common and there's tons of filters with this thread) so he got some filter like 6" long, the only size restriction being keeping the filter diameter small enough to keep from rubbing on the timing cover. I can see if I can find the thread again if you're interested.

Cool info nipper, thanks. Do you guys think maybe the newer Suby's like '06 might be the reverse flow setup? Just wondering because I see the list on the thermostats for these is like $10 more than the rest.

I think yarikoptic has the H6. When I want to cut the fuel I usually just pull the fuse with it running then crank for a second or two afterward. If it starts up for a second it might just be fuel vaporizing in the lines enough to make her go for an instant. Compression test of course equals all plugs out, engine warm, battery fully charged, throttle blocked open, etc.

Oh well sorry to hear that Jaysz. Yah it's probably better to get something she'll be happy with too. I see Foresters meeting your requirements around here once in a while but it's kind of far from Philly. May He richly bless you too.

Sorry about that timintc I should have specified in my post that I was asking that of the O.P. 2000outback, but yah that isn't fun when all the usual suspect parts have been replaced and the problem just won't go away!

Hi Carol and welcome! First, is there any way you can get the dealer to tell you exactly what code they read, like P0420 or whatever, or you could get it read at autozone, but you want the code number not just description. Could just be the front and/or rear O2 sensors that need replacing; if they've never been changed then they've definitely served their life well.

It might be the same code, but it is also possible it is not the same code. Getting the code read will at least confirm it is the same code.

That does seem to be a fair amount of residue but yes I see the same thing in my '00obw.

Thanks. Well this is the brighton so the rear brakes are drum. I just figured I'd price out the stainless braided since I see new OE rubber covered flex hoses ain't cheap but considering their safety criticality and pressures they need to withstand I guess I don't want cheap.