porcupine73

Yah, contacts. Maybe it's happening only when the starter is resting in a particular position (like intermittent contact) and banging on it or anything gets it going again. Someone posted recently about a contact set that was actually for some other vehicle like GM or something available at autozone that was the same size as what we need.

Good morning Vietnam! Wow sorry to hear about that. How long ago did you have the HG's done the first time? Maybe you actually got old stock OE gaskets that time rather than the updated multilayer version? Wow the pin was still in the tensioner? Fortunately it didn't jump any teeth then I guess? The coolant conditioner is actually the holt's radweld from the UK. I don't think it's too unlike a lot of other stopleak products; I think it's better at sealing those small external leaks on the HG's than at preventing an HG blowout.

rpm's are rpm's but power is the desired output so recall that power=speedX(cross)torque, so if the speedXtorque is higher at some lower RPM then that's more power, plus consideration must be given to where the vehicle will be in the power band after the shift.

My guess would be maybe one set is for the intake and the other color the exhaust? Maybe when the stop tears it down they/you can see which color is where in the existing stuff?

Hi xcracermg, welcome and congratulations on your Subaru! If front o2 sensor was never done it may be past it's useful life. How about a nice fuel system cleaner like redline si-1 (can get at pepboys i think and maybe autozone)? When it's somewhat dark outside, you could idle the engine and look for any sparks around the plug wires and coil pack maybe? Especially after misting some water over it all with a spray bottle.

lol well it has to be someone's fault! Thinking about it, I have never heard an electrical motor referred to as an engine; however gasoline and other non-electrically powered devices I have heard called both motors and engines, for example how reference two pointed out things like 'small boats may have outboard motors and then are often called motor boats.'

That is true. Part of the confusion comes from their use in British. A couple of interesting links: one two

I went with the outback because it was more spacious than the forester which I guess is based on the impreza? The outback has a lot more room behind the rear seat. I guess maybe if you can make sure whatever you get doesn't have that potential HG issue would be a bonus?

As far as speed and power and price this Forester and WRX are somewhat closely matched; handling is probably a lot nicer in the WRX? I should probably have made this into a table... cars101.com: 2007 Forester XT Limited: horsepower rated at 224@5600 rpm, 226torque@3600, XT Limited turbo, manual trans, Ca spec, code 7FJ, list $27,895 (speed test - didn't see if for '07 but for '06 is was 2006 XT Ltd, 5spd manual, 0-60 5.9sec, 0-100 15.8sec, 1/4 mile14.3 sec @ 96mp), edit: EPA economy rating: Manual trans - 22 city / 29 highwa 2007 Impreza WRX Limited sedan (grey or beige leather), 230 hp @ 5600 rpm, 235 lb-ft @ 3600 rpm, manual trans, codes 7JE, 7JF, list $27,495, 0-30 1.9s, 0-60 5.6s, 0-100 15.0s, 1/4 mile 14.2 sec @ 97.4 mph edit: EPA city/hwy econ 20/26 mpg

If you're having someone put it in, make sure either you but the used AT from them or you get one with a warranty that includes labor for replacement if it doesn't work otherwise it could get ugly if you end up with a bum salvage AT. What's the transmission equivalent of a CCR engine?

Wow maybe it would have been shorter to list the codes you didn't get, just kidding :-p Has it been slipping or just not shifting right? Dude maybe you have some sort of wiring problem or the connectors is all corroded based on all these codes: Well it say (sorry for the caps it's cut&paste) (this is for '96 legacy AT) DTC P0710: TRANSMISSION FLUID TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (ATF) which will result in * No shift up to 4th speed (after engine warm-Lip) * No lock-up (after engine warm-up) * Excessive shift shock DTC P0740: TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SYSTEM MALFUNCTION (ATLU - F) check any other DTC's first DTC P0720: OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR (VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR 1) CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (ATVSP) which will result in No shift or excessive tight corner "braking" DTC P0748 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID (DUTY SOLENOID A) ELECTRICAL (ATPL) which will result in excessive shift shock dang you want me to keep going I'm getting tired...

On my suby's anyway the stock pressure device is a pressure switch not a pressure indicator. You can tee in an aftermarket oil pressure gauge into the same block port as the original pressure switch (located sort of underneath the alternator). The oil pressure switch port on Suby's is something like 1/8" british standard pipe taper (BSPT) which is close to national pipe taper (NPT) but off by a thread per inch and the thread angle is different, so what I"m trying to say is buy or get a set of adapters because the aftermarket unit will almost certainly be 1/8"npt. Then you just need a 1/8"npt tee and maybe a couple 1/8"npt street tees depending on how you do it. Autometer makes nice gauges and you can get them a summit for not much more than those sunpro's at the auto parts places. I like electrical gauge for oil pressure because if you have mechanical and that little vinyl breaks in the engine compartment, well you get the picture.

Some people have reported having this sort of shake when stopped in gear after replacing the axle half shafts.

Check this out:http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=5402

Renting a car might not be a bad option if a suitable vehicle can't be found quickly enough, but if it's a one way rental make sure s/he knows about any surcharges first, like some places will charge by the mile with no free miles on top of the regular rental fee plus potentially a one way surcharge on top of that.

If the existing exhaust is restrictive, a cat back system will still leave you with the existing thin pipes from the exhaust manifold to the cat. I'd see if I could find someone who used the setup you're planning on a sub to see how much gain they got.

It's not that 15hp wouldn't do anything, heck that's nearly a 10% gain, but rather that a 15hp gain probably isn't going to happen from just from a different exhaust or even headers. Would there be a gain? Probably, but maybe not that much. Ultimate hp isn't the only measure of engine power, it's the power band, I mean if the thing makes 165hp at 5500rpm but drops off rapidly at lower rpm a car with less ultimate hp but more power over a wider range could outpull. Maybe you drop in a 50 shot of nos or something, that's not super expensive and will give you a power boost.

If you want a bit of sport but still have some fuel economy maybe a new(er) turbo forester would be worth looking at. For sound systems, if you're not happy with OE, then depending on what you want you could just get something else put in at a stereo shop.

Hm, yah you could try banging a little bit around on the dash and such when that happens and see if that makes it come on. Sounds like an intermittent connection somewhere or maybe a little bad spot on the fan motor, like I don't know if those fan motors have brushes.

Well the newer turbo foresters are like 0-60 in 5 seconds or something crazy like that which is pretty darn quick. Now, there are various honda civics, like maybe you were up against this beast (4-door 2007 Civic Si Sedan):

Maybe that person did some mods to the Civic, I mean those are pretty popular ricers with lots of aftermarket performance items aren't they?

Yah that's way too much, I paid less than that for a '00OBW with less miles last year from a used car dealer. They might just know that you're kind of in a hurry and are hoping you'll bite. If they'll come down to like $5k or so that would be much better, just don't let them play any games with you with the trade and stuff like that. Now that '98 is that one of the years with the potential head gasket issues?

Wow that's great news and thanks for the pics! The new one looks so shiny and perty. Plus it came with a new axle nut so that's nice. Where'd you get those? So you must've not had much trouble getting off the old axle nut and I can't quite tell if those had the spring/roll pins holding the inner joint to the diff stub?

Hi brighton98 and welcome! I have a '96 brighton here. I don't know how much the 2.2 changed between our years, but mine (at least I think!?) has hydraulic lash adjusters so no adjustment is required. If you have solid or those shim type adjusters then they should be checked. The risk in not checking them is that if they become too tight, esp the exhaust, the valve(s) could get scorched if they don't close all the way so they can dissipate their heat into the valve seats. If they're too loose they could become noisy and you might loose a little power/economy. If you see an external filter that looks much like the engine oil filter on your ATF on the front driver's side, then you have the 4eat phase II; you can just change that filter if desired (it's a little pricey OE like $25). Otherwise, (if you have an H6 this filter on a 4eat phase II is in the fender), you probably have the 4eat phase I which does have a screen filter which I have replaced in the '96 brighton but wasn't dirty (it really only is a fine mesh screen), but the bonus is you have to take off a cooler line to get the filter out which then drains all like 9qts or whatever ATF rather than just the 4 or so you will get with the drain plug only.

I don't know if your bang will be gone after the flush. It seems to me I saw a TSB about a bit of a 'bang' when the AWD kicks in and it was some clutch or something engaging quickly, but I don't know if it applies to your year/model. I get a bit of a whine under certain conditions from my rear diff or something too ('00OBW). It seems to me a lot of hypoid type rear diffs get a whine with time that is unavoidable. I rode in a late model explorer once that I couldn't believe how loud that whine was on hills.