porcupine73

Hm couldn't find it with google search, though this page came up, looks like it's basically the PDF but as a web page http://www.gates.com/common/printthis.cfm?BROCHURE=12730&printthis=yes&global=australia

Ah interesting tool, I hadn't seen one of those before. I just ordered one. I alawys go with the 'used' from Amazon Warehouse Deals if they have it, saves a few $ and the stuff is always great.

Oh 2008 sorry about that, I thought it said 2000 earlier, ignore the delayed engagement to drive comment.

Head gaskets, if auto trans, delayed engagement to drive, and as for all AWD soobs torque bind.

Agreed, probably esp on the MT's. I've done maybe 5 Subaru TB's, and pulling the radiator is easier than having to try to get all the fan bolts out at least here in the rust belt, and probably even moreso on the MT"s with no AT cooler hoses.

It's not a Subaru TSB; it's a Gates TSB. That little special tool does look nice. If people really liked them maybe a group buy could get set up to get a couple dozen shipped over from Australia?

I know I've seen in the Subaru service info to use a feeler gauge to check the clearance on that guide on the MT vehicles. Maybe some people are just putting it back in without doing that so that it is touching the belt and causing those failures. Because that failure seems like it would happen with a genuine belt or any aftermarket belt.

Ok thanks glad to hear the coolant doesn't normally mix into the oil. I plan to just keep adding coolant to the overflow as necessary then. I do add the coolant conditioner at each coolant change. I think my coolant leak comes and goes, like sometimes i don't notice much of any drop in the reservoir, then suddenly within a couple days it will use it all, and I keep it full to a couple inches from the top. Radiator is always full when rad cap is removed (provided overflow didn't get sucked dry) and that makes me feel much better.

Ok thanks. Maybe I'll spring the $20 for an oil analysis to see if it detects coolant in the oil just to be safe. Adding some coolant each week I figure is a lot less work and cost than replacing the HG's. It always seems to keep the rad full and pulls out of the overflow on cooldown. The timing belt will be due again in another 30-40k miles, at that time I will probably do the HG's provided the rest of the vehicle makes it that far. Fortunately it doesn't really seem to have ever developed that slow engagement to drive that a lot of the early 4EAT Phase II's had.

The early phase II 2.5L sohc's, when those peep the coolant out the HG's, do they tend to get coolant into the engine oil? My '00obw 180k miles I have to top up the overflow reservoir about once per week. Sometimes I can smell coolant at stops. It usually leaks only on cool mornings until the engine warms up. I'm imagining it is peeping out the HG's. Replacing the HG's right now is not something I really want to try to tackle if I can just keep the overflow topped off. I don't smell coolant in the engine oil but from what I see if coolant is getting into the engine oil that is as they said in Ghostbusters, bad Ray, very bad.

Yes switching the condensor would be a lot of work most likely because it wouldn't necessarily bolt up the same way as the old. Are you sure it is your compressor that is bad on the '02? If the system pressure is low, i.e. a leak somewhere, it will not turn the compressor on. Forget the MAF, your '02 does not have a MAF, it is MAP speed density based.

Provided the parts are available from the Subaru RDC's any dealer should be able to order the parts. There's lots who sell online, usually the higher volume ones maintain an inventory of the most common parts. Anything else like any dealer they have to order it from the Subaru RDC so it might take an extra few days. Popular ones include subarupartsforyou.com 1stsubaruparts.com subarugenuineparts.com and many many others. You're on the east coast so subarupartsforyou.com seems to be a reputable fast working east coast dealer selling parts online. Those others are west coast, so you're talking extra days to ship. Subarupartsforyou.com was not able to ship for a while after Sandy but I'd imagine they're back up now.

Price doesn't seem overly low, I punched it into nada for that zip and it says $8800 clean retail. I've noticed some used car dealers do always seem to have low prices. I think they probably just know how to get vehicles cheaply and then flip them. I am guessing a lot of these are straight buys from dealer trade-ins. They probably get them for less than auction price that way.

Could be internal as someone mentioned above. It seems like the coil would be the next logical thing to test since you did plugs and wires already, and since you were getting a spark on #2 but not #1 the ignitor is most likely fine.

I think service done at Subaru dealers who are part of the CARE network also shows up on carfax and autocheck reports.

Some of the electronics goodies like cam and crank position sensors I think are the same, maybe the ignitor and coil is the same. Engine and transmission of course are a no go at least not without the wiring harness and ECU and TCU. Steering pump is different.

Right junkyard part should work. If by chance you can get it in the dark and let it idle, and watch all around the coil pack to see if you can see the arcing. If you can see it, I have temporarily 'fixed' them on other makes by simply putting electrical tape around the area where it is arcing.

Well I don't know, I've seen those exact same gaps in carfax reports. Those services know only stuff that got reported to them; they're not some omniscient data service. People buy cars only to find out later they were actually in an accident, it's just the accident was never reported, so those services didn't know about it.

Hm, ok, I thought you replaced the plugs and wires because you were having this code ... are you saying you got this code only after replacing the plugs and wires? the other detail is Subaru's of that era can be picky about plugs and wires. They seem to like genuine wires and NGK plugs, though some people manage to use others ok.

Yes it is something that can develop as the pack ages definitely. It isn't just Subaru's that can have that issue. If I could find that TSB that might be of some help.

Hm well I wonder if it's possible if cracking/carbon tracing on the coil pack would allow one cylinder to fire while the opposite cylinder does not. I think there was a TSB out about carbon tracing on certain coil packs.

Ah now I'm seeing from an older thread that this vehicle had an engine swap from an 'older Legacy'. So if it was 1996 or earlier it would have HLA's, and if those go bad or lose prime, they can result in a ticking sound. Not sure if that would cause a misfire though.

The crank pulley bolt loosening won't let the timing jump, at least I can't see how, the crank sprocket is keyed to the crankshaft. What did you torque that bolt to? The old spec was something that was kind of low, though it did want you to oil the threads and make sure it turned a certain amount. I think usually 130+ft-lb will get it guten tite. 80 ft-lb is not enough. So, how many miles are on it, and, has the valve clearance ever been checked and adjusted?

Hm well that would be solid lifters. How many miles are on? It's possible if the valve clearance was never checked/adjusted and enough miles are on maybe a valve is not closing all the way. I forget I think it's the exhaust valves that usually end up not closing all the way in this case. If that's the cause if it's driven like that enough the valve will become scorched and require replacement.

Sounds good, if you can get the transmission model codes from your existing and from the new then you can make sure the ratios match up. Someone had a nice spreadsheet with the model codes here somewhere. Sometimes on the rear diffs there will be a sticker on them with the ratio but not always.