porcupine73

Hi 2000Outback! I have an '00OBW also. I would (and did!) replace the external ATF filter. It's a little pricey OEM, like $25 I think. It has the same thread diameter and pitch as the engine oil filter so I crammed an amsoil eao36 onto mine. I chopped open the OE ATF filter that was on there and it looked like a normal engine oil filter to me, except maybe it didn't have a bypass I don't remember so it might be more of a hydraulic filter. If the ATF hasn't been changed before and it has any normal mileage it wouldn't be the worst idea ever to change it. I'm using the amsoil synthetic atf and it shifts like a dream. You can do the 'pump and dump' method for changing ATF to get more of it out (because you'll only get like half with the drain plug while the rest remains in the torque converter and stuff). The diff oils are definitely due for a change if they've never been changed before (because if it's never been changed you've got all the break in metals in there and there ain't no filter for the gear oil, plus it may have sheared and if gotten hot oxidized). I put amsoil severe gear 75w140 in mine; seems to work great, a little heavy? maybe heavier at operating temperature but i don't care. This 4eat phase II atf does have an internal screen filter, but it's not listed as a replacement item and it doesn't need to be because the external filter is a great idea catching shavings and shreddings before they have a chance to plug up the atf cooler and lines. And be thankful for these luxuries like an atf drain plug, atf dipstick, and external filter - a lot of newer makes don't have any of these!

The materials in the radiator simply need to be adequately protected by the antifreeze/coolant. I think the Subaru OE coolant is very similar to the BASF G-05 coolant (licensed to Zerex and used as OE fill in Fords and some other makes), except the Subaru OE coolant may keep a little more base ph. Anyway, G-05 is supposed to be a very good protective formula, it's the best of both worlds from the traditional silicate (immediate corrosion protection) and H/OAT (ie dexcool) which forms a nice protective coating but takes a little while to form.

You don't have to go to the dealer; if you're even a moderate wrencher you can just yank one of the hoses to the in radiator tank ATF cooler, put some cheap vinyl hose from harbor freight on both ends (that way you don't have to know which is the outlet) and put them securely into a bucket or some other container. Then after putting in the new fluid, I add an extra quart, then pump out two quarts, then add two quarts, etc., until the fluid coming out looks fresh. It's a little more economical than doing several drain&fills as you'll have more fresh fluid in the AT using less fluid to get to that point. The, at least Subaru's I have, are awesome because most hose connections are just hose onto a barb, so there's no special fancy proprietary connectors to deal with there. AT's that have issues after a fluid change or flush are often poorly maintained or high mileage; sometimes things in the valve body or whatever wear and deposits build up, and then the flush and new fluid dislodge those deposits and then problems start. If it's on of those quick change flushes without changing the screen or external filter then the screen could become plugged. Most ATF's and oils contain anti-foamant, which I think is silicone.

I don't know that you would get a CEL if say the fan motor is bad or even disconnected? There is a matrix in the ECU that determines which fan(s) are on hi/low based on speed, engine temp, A/C compressor on. Usually they'll come on if the engine coolant temperature sensor (not the sensor for the temp gauge) detects 200 or 202 or something deg. F. or above. If that's working fine and it still overheats then for whatever reason the cooling system has exceeded it's maximum heat rejection capacity; that could be due to plugging, leaks, bad radiator cap, or any host of other issues.

Well it sounds like you've done your homework! I've got a '96 2.2L Brighton and I love it; the only thing I don't like is it's hard to roll down any window except the driver's when driving. Other than that there's not a whole lot of gadgetry to worry about breaking!

Maybe you can fit a Ron Davis in there, but I don't know if they make single row radiators.

Does that have the HID setup?

Well that code, at least of an '00OBW, is front oxygen (a/f) sensor heater circuit high input. Unfortunately, in the troubleshooting procedure for this issue, it never says replace the o2 sensor; the only item it lists for replacement is the ECM. Other things include repairing battery short circuit in harness between ECM and front o2 sensor; read front o2 sensor heater current and make sure value is less than 2.3A (otherwise replace ECM), shake the harnesses.

Well if you're already replacing the timing belt then you're pretty much there. The crank pulley and crank sprocket have to come off, then there's some bolts holding the pump onto the block and then with a little gentle prying it'll break the sealant and come free. Make sure to get a new front crank seal and o-ring with the new pump (it was not included with the OE pump I got, had to order it separately).

Dexron ATF's already have friction modifiers in them anyway, if you don't want any friction modifiers in your ATF then you have to use type F.

If you're thinking the oil pressure might be low then you need to hook up a good oil pressure gauge and make sure it's in spec for that model, like >14psig oil at idle with oil at operating temp or whatever it is. Since the engine is already out that's probably not practicable at this point. If you're resealing the pump anyway, then take the back cover off the oil pump and measure the rotor clearances. If they're near or out of the upper service limit spec, then as far as I know you can just buy a new matched rotor set and use your existing pump casing (provided the case where the rotors sit isn't worn). On my '00OBW at 100k the clearances were at the upper service limit.

I think the limited slip additive is just friction modifier, I don't think it actually contains any gear oil. I used the trans-x in an old '88 lincoln that was on it's way out and it did work but seemed like more of a last ditch effort.

Maybe something is messed up with the radio itself then if the fuse is good. I live in NY but do projects in Canada sometimes and I love it. My favorite two things are when Canadian's say 'right on', and when they refer to Tim Horton's as "Timmy's".

Good point gbhrps, I recall that watery glue from working with acrylic plastic in shop class in high school, that glue worked great and you could not see the seam at all after gluing, especially if you buffed it a little bit afterwards.

If you look at this guy's web page, http://www.staff.uaf.edu/fnjwt/subaru.html and scroll down a few pics, you'll see how he undid the intake manifold ansd sat it on the windshield.

Wow I guess if I ever run into a repair that requires the SSM III I'll probably just buy a new Suby! Well at least it'd be a big hit at a dinner party with all it's jokes! A funny thing happened to me the other day while I was diagnosing, I told the technician to press any key, but he couldn't find the 'any' key, and then he broke my coffee cup holder.

Provided the the speedo (75mph) and gps readings (97mph) are accurate, if the new tires are 30" dia the original tires must've been about 23.2" dia?

Well it would probably be worth a shot to save it! If you can see the cracks I might try a clear or amber epoxy. Otherwise JB weld might work that stuff is pretty good.

Well that doesn't sound good. You see some weird things happen in parking lots. Sounds like you're lucky your air bags didn't deploy! What year/model is your vehicle? A good body place could patch that up pretty quick I'd say, but if you want the door skin replaced of course that costs $$$.

Are there any reasonable alternatives to the Select Monitor? To me it just looks like a rugedized laptop with some custom software and some sort of cable to connect to the diagnostic port and of course the setup ain't cheap, like I'm guessing $5k. Specifically I'm wondering if one could just buy the interface cable and some 3rd party software and use it with your own computer.

Ah, thanks snowman, I hadn't heard of those before, but maybe that's why some of the landcruisers on ebay have onboard air compressors installed in the back.

I saw on this toyota landcruiser site about these locking differentials they use for rock climbing that are locked and unlocked using compressed air and was wondering if anyone knew of anything similar for subaru's?

The speedo will be off by the ratio of the circumferences or diameters or radii (since the circumference is a linear relationship to the radius or diameter). So for example if you to 27" diameter tires from 26" diameter tires the ratio is 27/26=103.85%, so if you're speedo says 55mph (and is accurate) then you're actually going about 57mph.

They won't all turn at the same speed jacked up like that unless you have locking differentials all the way around. If you just have open diffs then it isn't going to happen like that.

Hi funkyfish77 and welcome! Summit racing has some devices to do that for fords and chevy's but I don't know if they have them for Subaru's. These little boxes basically take the signal from the VSS and output it's own signal at some (usually adjustable) percentage of the incoming frequency. Another option might be an aftermarket speedo that is adjustable.