porcupine73

Yah you'd have to look at the salvage car and get all the components. Look at the throttle body and you'll see two cables - one goes to the gas pedal, the other goes to the cruise control unit. You need that cruise control unit and any wiring and vacuum lines, etc. that come off of it. Hopefully your car already has the connector for the thing.

OK, he did not put diff fluid in with the ATF. He put what I'm guessing is a few ounces at most of a friction modifier (which is not necessarily a friction reducer) of a type often added to gear oil in limited slip differentials. Dexron type ATF's already have friction modifiers in them anyway (unlike type F), so adding a little more probably isn't going to kill anything (hopefully ) You're right, putting gear oil into an AT is bad for many reasons including that it has a lot of sulfur in it which may eat things up, but he didn't put gear oil into the ATF - just that additive.

Cool idea. Well that's basically a friction modifier, which Dexron flavour ATF already has some/certain kinds, not sure this would actually do anything to correct the cause of the torque bind, it might just mask the symptoms? Would be interested to know how it works out over the long term.

Well the potential damage depends on what the problem really is. If it's a vacuum leak, you're sucking in unfiltered air someplace then and depending where the leak is some cylinders may end up running rich and some lean and then there's exhaust temps and stuff. If the IAC is just sticky, that might not be as big a problem.

Do the outbacks just have different differential ratios rather than different AT's? All I really know is the 4eat phase I's were until ~2000, which then changed to the 4eat phase II's. Are these made by Jatco? I've heard some reference elsewhere to what they called 'J-boxes' which I learned were Jatco boxes, which is a Japanese AT and CVT manufacturer.

Hi Richard, I put an amsoil eao36 on my '00OBW, it's a lot longer than the stock filter (but you have to tighten it on quite a bit.) The thread size and pitch is the same as the engine oil filter (as I use the eao36 as my engine oil filter too ) I chopped open the OE ATF filter that was on there and it looked like a regular oil filter to me, but maybe it's more of a hydraulic filter without a bypass. Yah, I'd avoid the fram too; Wix makes some nice filters and I wouldn't hesitate to use it (or I think Carquest and Napa Gold are actually Wix too). The $25 for a new OE filter seems a little excessive, but since it's a 'replace only if dented or leaking' part then maybe that's why.

Sounds like a plan. I would not run just plain water for any longer than is absolutely necessary because water does not have any corrosion inhibiting properties. I would not use a garden hose to even flush the system; distilled or RO water is preferred, especially if you use a phosphate containing coolant, (Subaru does specify) which can precipitate out with hard water. (That's why european coolants are phosphate free - hard water is common there).

I'd be interested to know what the dealer says too. I'd suspect it might just be a method for the manufacturer to limit liability if the air bags fail to operate correctly. I don't know how the whole air bag thing works, like I'm guessing auto makers typically buy the modules and stuff from some supplier, and maybe the supplier says the thing needs to be inspected every 10 years. Or I heard the auto industry typically designs for a 10 year lifespan.

Some people like those Purolator. I bought some aftermarket air filter, forget the brand, and promptly returned it because the gasket was much thinner than on the OE thus resulting in a poor seal.

On the Suby's you don't have to add the fluid to the overflow tank, just pour it in the radiator cap opening and make sure to get out any air bubbles. There are some fords and others that say to add coolant only to the overflow tank, maybe to limit their liability if you take the radiator cap off and get burned. Hopefully your issue is just that you were low on coolant, but if you haven't changed it in years then it's time for a drain and refill anyways, at which time you can put in a new thermostat and gasket, this isn't a very difficult job. There's many posts on how to do it and how to get out the air pockets. You might be losing coolant somewhere for it to get low in the first place so keep an eye on the level in the overflow for a while afterwards. Anyway I wouldn't drive it anymore until you at least make sure the coolant is full; otherwise you're risking warping the heads if there's no coolant there.

I noticed that information on my '96 too. I'd just call the dealer and ask about it. I'd guess they make sure the air bag light on the instrument cluster still works and maybe inspect the crash sensors, connectors, computer, and maybe the modules themselves.

What is the exact error code they pulled, i.e. P0123? I pour redline SI-1 injector cleaner into my IAC hose once in a while to clean it up; haven't had any issues with doing that (yet!). Maybe you have a vacuum leak somewhere? The IAC might be as closed as possible but the vacuum leak provides enough air to keep the idle too high?

Good point HondaH8er, that is entirely possible. Thanks for that article 99OBW, that is pretty much the procedure I followed, some of the things in that article I think apply to turbo models, like the screws that hold the injectors in place. I'm kind of surprised the article didn't say to replace the o-rings.

Maybe the cam sprocket bolt backed out? If so I'd say the shop is responsible as they would have removed them to replace the cam seals. Does the dohc have those carbon fiber type cam sprockets, if so maybe it was damaged in the process of R&R?

What engine was the ECU you are running from? If it wasn't a turbo, I don't know if all the maps would go out far enough. The IAC sounds possible; can you pour some injector cleaner in there or clean it out somehow? Maybe you have some sort of vacuum leak?

What are you trying to see? I'd think you'd really need to connect on oscilloscope to see the signal. If the sensor is heated, you'd have to leave the connector plugged in I would think so the heater could function. If you have an o-scope I'd just probe each wire on the harness until I saw a signal. If it's heated one (or two) of them should be ground, one should be +12V, and one should be the magic signal, not sure of the amplitude, maybe 1v-pp. I think it's generally suggested that you do not use those probes that pierce the insulation.

When I'm looking for one I try to find as many car related web sites as possible, especially local 'swap sheet' type ones and watch them for new postings too. Not to be neglected is paying attention while driving around for cars for sale in yards and stuff. I've noticed that a lot of local used car dealers have a suby on the lot but I never see them adverstized anywhere. If you don't care about shipping/going to pick it up, eBay might possibly be an avenue to go. Or maybe you could get one fresh from a salvage yard before the vultures get to it and do what needs to be done to make it road worthy again.

I've seen it posted that some ~'00 AT's had some issue with a seal in the fluid pump or something causing issues, not sure if these symptoms would be indicative of that or not?

Thanks for the info guys. Now I'm a little worried about the O2 sensor taking a hit, but ah nothing I can do about that now, they're relatively cheap anyway since they had a recall on them for my vehicle. Anywho, I removed them to send them to witchhunterperformance for cleaning and stuff; probably didn't really need it but I just couldn't resist trying it. I don't really know what happened on the reinstall; I know I had the o-rings on there. At least it isn't leaking fuel! That would be much worse. The only thing I can think is it was a little tight fit cramming the things back into the holes on the intake or whatever that is they go into, maybe it ripped or something the o-ring. Actually the two cylinders I noticed the injectors sucking air on were the two closest to the radiator. So anyway maybe I'll rip it apart again later. This vehicle was down for it's 105k turnaround since July 4 and the insepction was 3 months overdue so I was just happy to get it back on the road again and I forgot how much fun this '00OBW is to drive. We just got our first snowfall here in Buffalo today and a pretty fierce one at that and this vehicle showed it's colors.

Hi all, finished timing belt, water pump, and oil pump replacement, and fuel injector removal, servicing, and reinstallation finally. After first startup, I started hearing a goodly sucking sound with the hood up. So I used my trusty mechanics stethescope (which I had never used before but was invaluable; very easy to find exact source of sound) and it was right where an injector goes into the manifold there. I used all new OE o-rings and stuff when reinstalling the injectors. So I already had everything completely reassambled, so I figured, ah why not and pasted a goodly amount of ultra grey RTV around the injector/manifold interface with a detail brush. Let is harden overnight, fired it up, sound gone. Now I realize this isn't the optimal solution but I was wondering what you guys thought of it....

Not sure if this is what you're looking for, but this info is from http://www.toad.net/~rrubel/bulletin.html.

It's the belt. I have a '96 legacy and '00obw and examining the timing belts side by side they are definitely different material or technology or whatever. Maybe the newer belts include kevlar or something to make them sturdier. On the ~'96 and earlier 2.2's the only risk of breaking a belt is being stranded, but after that and on the 2.5's you're going to most likely have to replace bent valves and maybe event dented pistons if that belt breaks.

Excellent, Subaru world domination is near. So how is it pronounced, I always figured Subaru like sue-buh-roo, but on those irritating radio commercials the announcer insists on pronouncing it sioux-buh-roo, what's up with that?

Well when I first searched for torx, I didn't find that thread, at least not near the top of the list. After I did an advanced search and sorted by relevancy instead of showing most recent posts first it was right near the top. To find that T70 bit might also try searching online for a T70 'torque' bit as I have seen in ads where they put 'torque' instead of Torx. Looks like Lisle makes one.

mm...interesting. I don't know much about engine internals but now I at least know which is the big/bottom end....