porcupine73

There's probably no issue with aftermarket lines. Hm thanks for the partsgeek mention, I took a peak, those are far cheaper plus they're available!

Getting the ABS to cycle is tricky, I did it once on my '00obw. It took a few tries to get it to do it. It was something with grounding those pins then the ignition had to go on, then the pedal had to get pressed within so many seconds and held or something. Hi grossgary, sent you a pm but I don't think the forum notifies for pm's anymore.

I think some people have done that, bypassed the pump. I thought about doing that but decided not to. Info I could find is that not running the pump isn't the same as just having a manual rack and pinion. In NY anyway it wouldn't or shouldn't pass safety inspection that way so I figured it would buy only a couple months. There's other posts on here about doing it, there's a belt 4K275, it's a 4 rib shorter belt that can just go between the crank pulley and alt and use the alt tension adjuster. I looked and RockAuto has this belt on closeout for like $1.63 plus 2.99 shipping. Some people said if in involved in an accident and it's noticed it was run that way it might raise some questions. I'm not saying it can/should be done just relaying some info I saw. Is yours an automatic transmission? What I've noticed is if something like the steering lines rust out, there's many other lines that are probably close to rusting out too: rear brake lines where they go over the fuel tank, auto trans cooler lines, fuel lines above the tank

They might be out of stock then at the Subaru RDC's and might be discontinued. Only luck then might be finding 'new old stock' that a dealer happened to have ordered for someone but never used or something like that. Yes that $300 price tag is why I ended up retiring my '94, though that's the list price dealers then sell usually at a % off that at least the online dealers. Walking into a dealership sometimes they charge more than list at least around here. Not sure if possibly bending and flaring steel tube would work or possibly something like cunifer. If aftermarket lines are available rockauto.com would probably show them.

parts.subaru.com you can find the genuine lines; finding a dealer who offers the maximum discount is the fun part. Not sure on the aftermarket lines, I just had those lines rust out on my '94 Legacy, right on the bottom of the rack, a shop said they could get only genuine. I don't think high pressure hose would work at least not for the pump discharge. Well depending on how 'high pressure' the hose is. The pump can put out I forget something like 800-1000psig something like that before the relief opens. The return line hose might be ok.

Yes that bolt is tight. If I had to do mine again I would just grind the nut off with an angle grinder and replace the bolt and nut. If you can't find the assemblies you want possibly could see how much a local shop would charge just to assemble the strut, spring, mount, then you could also get GR-2's which is typically the best bet. If a shop has one of those quick lever style spring compressors they can probably have both together for you in about 10 minutes.

Could also possibly suspect the ignitor, they do fail sometimes and will result in 1-2 misfire or 3-4 misfire depending on which transistor pair failed in it. Though in your case ignitor is probably much less likely because you had all cylinder misfire which you got rid of 3-4.

Well on possibility is that engine's head gaskets would have been prone to the external peeping leak. On my '00 it would just loose a little bit now and then but it didn't drip continuously. Keeping the overflow nice and full and making sure the radiator was kept full let me drive it that way for years. But if you don't check the level often to top it off then it will eventually get low enough to start overheating. And overheating is of course bad. There is a coolant conditioner that can be added that may help with this type of leak.

Probably would have to just search online for getting TranX shipped or maybe check the manuf. web site and see if they distribute it there possibly under a different name. But - check those codes first. Adding Trans X will _not_ make a check engine light stop flashing.

Right on get the codes first, flashing check engine light is almost always misfire. What you are describing actually sounds like there is a good chance has nothing at all to do with the transmission. Are you getting a flashing AT temp light all?

If it doesn't seem to have any purpose and it's and depression rather than a hole maybe it's just something from the casting/machining i.e. to make it so a machine can handle the part or something like that.

Right I'd say first make sure you're bleeding them correctly, it sort of sounds like you're almost saying you're loosening the bleed screw then pumping the brakes a few times then tightening it. If the bleed procedure is correct you could do the booster check that's pretty easy, it's basically with the engine running you step on the brake and then turn the engine off and the pedal shouldn't drop, then you pump the pedal about 3 times, each time it should get harder and harder to press. Then with your foot on the brake you start the engine and the pedal should drop. (It shouldn't drop to the floor in any of these cases, and if it has while you've been working on it, it's possible the master is damaged if as lmdew mentioned a seal or cup got damaged by being forced into a rusty area of the cylinder.

Not sure if this is related to your issue but I noticed on my '96 if it sat too long and the battery went dead, if I charged it only enough to get the vehicle started, then I could sort of start to move, but if I pressed the brakes it would stall and not have enough oomph to restart. If the battery was good and charged it was fine. In a pinch I would just not press the brake at all and use the parking brake so as to keep it from stalling out (this was just in the field / driveway not on the road). I think the brake lamps take a fair bit of juice and if the battery isn't good and charged the alternator doesn't respond fast enough so the voltage drops too low and the car dies. How much/often does yours get driven? If it's only driven infrequently and for short trips it may not be fully recharging the battery. Otherwise it might be good to check the parasitic draw with an ammeter and see if it's too high, there could be a circuit or something else causing it to drain.

This diagram may not be exactly your vehicle but it's good enough for general understanding: If that part of your exhaust is rusted out, you might want to take a look at the area where your donut gasket is too. Those like to rust out. Maybe it was just cut out and welded like the other repair and is still fine. It's just I've found those two spots tend to rust out within a close time of each other. So if you're getting the one spot welded maybe they can just take care of the other 'while they're down there'. Good point on the soup can trick. I read someone said packing it with steel wool seems to help it really seal up nice and be quiet. That spot looks like it would be good for the soup can repair since it's accessible and two areas with at least a couple inches of straight run pipe. I was going to try that on mine but I'd needed to have cut the flanges off which I just didn't feel like doing at the time.

Hm usually there's a flange and gasket at that spot. It's a spot that does tend to rust out I've noticed. That pic it looks to me like maybe it was already repaired once previously, as in the flange cut off and a repair piece slipped over it. I'd think it would be an easy weld repair if you find a good shop. If you're looking to do it on the cheap I have had some good luck with this product: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/specialized-maintenance-repair/exhaust-system-repair/permatex--1000--plus--exhaust-repair-kit-detail I've tried a lot of exhaust repair products over the last year or two and that is really the only one that seems to work somewhat well though it's not perfect of course. Figure on it lasting maybe six months.

I don't know if this will be useful at all but just brainstorming a couple thoughts... if you remove one brake light bulb and check the resistance between the wires on the harness I am going to guess that is in parallel with all the other brake light bulbs and anything else that comes on with the brake lights. What resistance do you see with your meter if you check just the brake light bulb itself when it's out of the holder? I don't know how many watts the brake lamps are but if they're say like 12 watts each and there's three of them in parallel that's only going to be like 1/3 ohm total, so on a typical meter I think it's going to be hard to differentiate between that and pretty much a dead short. If using the beepy continuity check feature on the meter it's definitely going to beep for that. I know over the years there's been posts of people with bad bulbs like where the filament brakes and then shorts out in the bulb causing issues or issues with the bulb holders themselves causing a short like stray/frayed wire inside where it makes contact with the bulb. Does it have power mirrors and do those work? I know there was an issue on some of those years with something getting pinched in the drivers door that could cause a fuse to blow but I don't know if that was the same that feeds the brake lamps.

Have you checked the coolant level? Does the overflow have plenty? When the engine is cold if the rad cap is removed is it full right up to the brim?

Here's a chart Subaru had out about alternative sealants. Some people prefer the anaerobic sealant for the oil pump. For one it eliminates the chance of getting a chunk of rtv stuck in one of the oil passages. It looks like maybe Permatex changed up their product line a bit, this is what I had used years ago but it says no longer available: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-Ultra-Series-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Maker-599-ultra-grey-rigid-rump roast.-gasket-maker-3.5-tub/19278839 Re the thread sealer, only spot that would really need that would be the oil pump backing plate screws. If they're loose or you can get them out, I'd go with red or the strongest locker you can get, since basically if you need to remove those screws to get at the rotors you probably would just replace the entire pump anyway. If you can't get the oil pump backing plate screws loose then I'd just use green or the wicking type.

Hello Toni and welcome to the site. From what you describe the most likely sources would be the power steering fluid (which would be the front right or passenger side). If it has an automatic transmission it could also be a leak of the ATF or automatic transmission fluid. Those would be the only two red fluids that vehicle would normally have. The power steering reservoir has a cap under the hood that can be checked to see if it's low. The quick lube should be able to check it if you're not able. If it's the power steering maybe they can see if they can tell where it seems to be leaking from. The older style 90's power steering pumps had an o-ring under the reservoir that liked to leak with age. Also - if the power steering reservoir is low - it actually takes automatic transmission fluid. Subaru's of that era did not and do not use 'power steering fluid'.

Glad it worked out. What engine did you end up using? Did you have a shop swap it out? If you have further such related questions maybe try the new gen forum, that gets a lot more traffic than the subaru transplants forum.

Hi, first question I would ask is - condition of the automatic transmission fluid, i.e. when was it changed last? What type was used? The reason I ask is the way the transfer clutch works I believe it needs the fluid to be good, i.e. good dynamic friction properties, else I think it's going to get grabby, because the difference between slipping and not slipping it can't module it very well otherwise and will get grabby. But that assumes mechanically everything else is good. If it doesn't have torque bind, like feeling like the brakes are in in slow speed cornering near idle then that is good. But then again if the shop indicated they detected some kind of problem that might be indicative of something that me sitting in an armchair can't know or see.

Just as a hunch I would say yes, you can use the block off plate/plug from the old trans on the new trans. I believe on the H6 the only reason the filter is not on the side of the trans is clearance to the exhaust or some other component. The plug/plate I am guessing from looking at it just takes the place of the filter. That bolt is probably a big banjo bolt. So it's still allowing the flow to go through like normal, like if there were a filter there (it's not blocking off the flow). So then the filter can simply be in line with the trans cooler hoses like on the remotely mounted set up. I don't know though how that plug/plate mounts, i.e. there's probably either a gasket or o-ring behind it or possibly some kind of sealant.

The FWD fuse, when installed, puts (or is intended) to put it in front wheel drive. When the FWD fuse it out then it should engage the AWD. So if seem to be ok with the FWD fuse in then the duty c and transfer clutch are probably ok. With the FWD fuse out it sounds like it starts acting up. So then make sure the obvious things, all the tires match, i.e. there's not one that got replaced while the other three are different, or new tires on the front or rear only. If for some reason the trans was swapped but the rear diff doesn't match that would cause issues too.

Harder than the old style I would think, I believe you have to pull the fuel pump assy to get at it. I saved the file below from Endwrench: Subaru Fuel Filters - Past and Present 07FebFuelEW.pdf

Yes, welcome, congratulations on your soob. That should be a pretty solid platform, 90's 2.2L.