porcupine73

Can you let us know the model and year? Usually the parts stores will read the codes for free, you just need to know the actual code # and not the description, like P0302. I'm guessing someone read the codes already to know it was cyl #2 misfire?

It's not going to add 60HP that's absurd. A real turbocharger might approach those numbers but not some silly electric computer fan, because, for one thing, the alternator wouldn't even be able to put out enough power to compress say 350CFM air to 8psig, no way. The chips are similar. In some applications there might be 'hidden power' that the chip can be more aggressive with but I haven't really seen that in Subaru's, at least not the n/a's.

Ah bingo it does still work. It looks like a lot of the sites where it used to work have restricted it to only vehicles in their inventory, probably due to so many exploits since this tip is posted on just about every car and motorcycle web site out there. But it's nice to see there's still some that work! Some questions would be who did the head gasket and timing belt and what parts did they use. If they just slapped on a new timing belt but didn't replace any of the idlers or water pump that is not ideal as those idlers esp the geared/toothed can and do fail.

No if the '99 is a phase II you won't be able to make it work in a phase I application without a lot of effort. Probably need the wiring harness and TCU at the minimum, then figure out how to make it communicate with your old ECU for torque cut etc. Plus the VSS's are probably different and so on.

The differentials need to match yes so they have the same ratio 3.9 or 4.11 or whatever. Otherwise you'll have permanent terrible torque bind. Those are both 4EAT Phase I's right (no external spin on filter)? If by chance the '99 is a phase II that will definitely not work in a phase I application.

Hm not sure what that is, is it one of the VSS's or the ATF temp sensor? Might get more attention posted in the new gen forum.

Hm probably main thing there would be head gaskets. I don't have any that new but from what I understand they still do fail even after '03. Oh I see it says it has new head gaskets. Well that can be good, but a lot depends on what gaskets they used and whether the job was done correctly. There's a thread here somewhere about how to get an autocheck report, basically finding a site that has a unlimited subscription and pasting the vin in after the autocheck.php?

Hm all other things being equal, it seems like the 2.5L would be the most straightforward installation. It looks like per Gary's info you could use the 2.2L though as well if that's what you really wanted to use. Make sure to check out Gary's must have's, like if your engine has EGR replacement engine needs EGR.

Hm maybe they hadn't charged the battery in a long time. I have a yellow top that is 10.8v at rest too. Unfortunately yes it will still start the car but it has shorted cell in it so its not ideal. Optima suffered some quality issues a few years back, seen many postings of shorted cells. I switched to Odyssey after that.

That sounds good, I usually put wooden clothes pins on the timing belt to hold it to the sprockets, no scratches or anything, just enough oomph to keep things in place and lined up.

I think the ones that had the 'oil cooler/warmer', maybe Foresters, had the extra nipple?

Not to fear, on the sohc, provided you lined up the crank sprocket per the marks (which would also align the cam sprockets), then just rotate the cam sprockets back up to where the marks are. Usually I prefer to rotate them clockwise when standing in front of the engine (normal direction of rotation). The valves won't hit the pistons with the crank set at the timing alignment mark because no pistons are at tdc.

Hm yes I don't see anything in the wiring diagram that seems like it would impact the parking lights. For the speedo I see connections to VSS #2 and the ECU, and possibly one other connection for the tach.

Hm interesting ok well I will probably mosey on out to the garage this evening with some homebrew in hand and have a gander at the manual. I want to put in a switch for the FWD on my '96 tonight.

I don't think Subaru ever did that, they use separate security modules by Alpine and Code Alarm for example. I can look in my manual later at the wiring diagram and try to see what in the instrument cluster could make the parking lights stay on. I know there's a few connectors on the panel, can you identify which connector, when connected, makes the parking lights come on?

Hm not sure what would be in the cluster itself that would make the parking lights stay on ... unless maybe the security system doesn't like it for some reason.

Hm I have a '96 Legacy, the cluster comes out pretty easily, just some electrical connectors (except I think some MT's used a cable driven speedo). Usually the parking lights staying on thing is the switch on the top of the steering column getting switched on accidentally ...

I don't know how they pick the original tires, but I think pretty much all chain stores will say they will not sell you a tire lower than the original speed rating. I even had to fight with my local tire chain to get the size tire I wanted installed. I had aftermarket wheels of a different size, and, hence the tire nominal size was different. I had to sign some disclaimer that since the tires were not the original size if I had a warranty issue with the tire I would have to work with the manufacturer on it since it wasn't the original tire size.

Carefully check the intake snorkel hose gadgetry for any hoses that might have popped off. The ones where the IACV intake attaches to the intake tubing, often that hose will pop off and cause the exact issue you describe as much airflow is then allowed to bypass the MAF which confuses the ECU.

Those are the multilink rear suspension that started roughly around MY 2000 (maybe 1999 on some Legacies). Not sure if they're substantially different starting in MY05, but if what you have doesn't seem to mate up right, maybe something from 2000-2004 would work.

I've had this problem on a couple soobs, seems to be three main things or a combination of them. Yes the switch alignment on the trans is adjustable. Subaru says you need a special alignment tool to get it right. The other factor is the shift cable, because that is adjustable too, so if it's not going all the way up into park that might do it. Especially if you gently ease the shifter into park with minimal force rather than pushing it firmly. Third is the switch itself, these things do sometimes go flaky and then the car won't always start in park, or won't start in park but will in neutral, etc.

I think they only way you're going to know for sure is to just look. It depends how many different wiring harnesses they made. Right usually it's cheaper to just manufacture and inventory a ton of a single type of harness rather than to have separate harnesses for different submodels. I'd say the first giveaway would be to pry out the little trim covers over where the switches would normally be for your desired options. Is the connector for the switch there? Ditto for where the seat heaters would plug into under the seat, fog lights etc.

Right it's not entirely based on rpm. It's really based primarily on airflow, which the ECU then injects the right amount of fuel to match the air flowing into the engine. With the throttle closed and coasting down hill very little air enters the engine. Whereas you might be full throttle at the same rpm and it's drawing in as much air as it can under normal aspiration.

I think most of them are around 175psig. They do list a spec for between cylinders iirc maybe 20psig or so? I forget the exact conditions, maybe it was with the engine warm and a shot of oil in each cylinder? I know it says throtttle blocked wide open and battery fully charged.

Hm that was pretty neat! Did anyone else hear 'kill all humans' towards the end?