porcupine73

It sounds to me like he's saying the problem is the engaged drain plug threads or something stripped and now the drain plug turns but doesn't come out. Maybe you need to get someone to turn the plug while you use a couple screwdrivers or something to pry lightly behind it to maybe get the remaining threads to engage so it'll come out.

Not sure about the antenna, but the temp gauge thing may be the thermostat; very easy to change and if you do it might as well put in new coolant too. Are you low on coolant? Maybe there's an air pocket in there. I guess it could be the sender for the temp gauge or the temp gauge itself going batty or maybe some connection in between.

Can you see where the sparks are coming from? If they're originating on the plug wire, I'd replace those; if they're originating from the coil pack, then you may need to replace it. Sometimes the coil packs get carbon traces on them. A temporary fix could be to wrap electrical tape all around the area where you saw the sparks coming from; I did that for my brother once 'til he could get it fixed. On these Subaru's this sparking issue I think can impact the opposite cylinder as well as I think it sparks cylinders two at a time.

Hmmm interesting....well I would maybe try cleaning up the #1 connection with scotchbrite or something, check the spark plug wire's connector to the coil too and make sure that's good and clean and tight, and put some of that dielectric silicone grease in there and plug it back on and see what happens? You can always simulate by (carefully) spraying some water from a squirt bottle or something onto the suspect connections to see what happens.

Hi jonw15 and welcome! Based on your description of it happening primarily when it's damp, I would definitely check the spark plug wire. Check for any cracks or fraying. The plug wires are easy to find as the coil pack is right on top of the block. If you're not sure which is the #1 cylinder, just look at the top of the coil pack - the cylinders are numbered. Also check the connectors going to/from the coil pack, maybe jiggling and reseating. Sometimes if the spark plug wire or coil is bad, if you get the engine running in a slightly dark place and get the problem to occur, you can see some arcing from the wire/coil pack to ground.

It's not necessarily that the harness is shorting pins, it's probably more likely to fail open, or if there's any corrosion in there it will exhibit more resistance than is ideal. P1133 is in the OE manual for '00OBW; it says DTC P1133 - FRONT OXYGEN (A/F) SENSOR HEATER CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT. (sorry about the caps-cut&paste). As already mentioned there was a recall on the front o2 sensors where they'll replace it for free (some piece can break off or something I think); so if it hasn't been done yet and your vehicle was included might as well get it done.

Can you try some of those bolt-outs from Sears? I've had good results with those. Or can you maybe just drill off the bolt head or something?

Hi Gil. If you mean run in FWD by putting in the FWD fuse, the impression I get from other threads is that it is not recommended. The solenoid that activates when the FWD fuse is in isn't intended for continuous duty and can become damaged. Plus from other threads I've read it really doesn't gain anything in mileage because all the rotating mass and friction is still there.

Soak in good penetrating oil like kroil for a few days at least before attempting removal. I've had excellent results with exhaust/engine cold, then starting and running for maybe 30 seconds, just enough to warm the pipe, and then maybe running 30 more seconds if still tight, and then it comes right out. Couldn't budge it exhaust fully cold. Also depends on if it was replaced previously or not and if so whether good hi temp antisieze was used.

Hi and welcome! Are you sure simply tightening those bolts would fix the leak? I mean are they 'loose'? If it really is the pan leaking it sounds like it needs to be removed and resealed. Could the leak actually be coming from someplace else and running down onto the pan?

Hm....would a head gasket issue cause this problem? i.e. blowing exhaust into the coolant?

Whew doggies that sounds like fun! I'm going to call my local yard about these potential opportunities forthwith! Ok, so how about a serious but perhaps somewhat obvious question....what do you guys carry in your scrapyarding toolbox? I suppose it might vary depending on what you're looking for. Has to be light enough to carry, yet sufficient to remove any unexpected goodies encountered!

Wow dude that doesn't sound like fun. Can you see where it's broken or whatever, like if you get under the vehicle maybe on jackstands and somebody else moves the shifter back and forth can you see where it's busted? It's probably a little late for this, but I had the shifter get really tight in my '96 Legacy a couple times, but spraying some graphited penetrating oil (penephite) down there really loosened the thing up.

Interesting info thanks! Regarding the oil leak, have you place cardboard or something under it see if it is leaking and if so roughly from where? Sometimes people clean the engine compartment good so that they can see roughly where a leak is coming from. There are many areas (if it is leaking and not burning) that it could be coming from including cam seals, front crank seal, valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, etc., do you see any oilyness in the coolant? PCV valve in good shape? I'm assuming your vehicle is awd. All tires should(must!) be the same circumference. That is definitely not good that there were different size tires on there. That causes a lot of heat in the AT center and would reduce mileage I would imagine. Changing the ATF was definitely a good idea after that kind of scenario.

Do you have any boot rips and/or grease leaking out? Would probably be much easier to get a used one from a salvage yard if practicable. If something is worn out in your existing one, it may have taken other parts/races with it and to buy those parts individually could add up quickly. A lot of people like autozone and such rebuilt cv axles, and though they have a lifetime warranty they might not be as reliable over the long haul as OE or a used OE. You can get remans through Subaru dealer too.

Yes soloracer34 that would work! It appears they also have brackets for putting lights on the rack. In trying to find their web site I went to surco.com, which is Surco Products Inc. but is for non-formaldehyde cherry-bubblegum fragrance portable toilet deodorant...whoops wrong site! Surcoinc.com works though.

Whoops my bad! Sorry about that OB99W! We're just all one big happy family on this board and it gives me a warm fuzzy just thinking about it. Thanks for the info about the timing check idea. I could probably get one 'rental' at autozone maybe. Say what's the 0-60 supposed to be on the '96 Legacy 2.2AT? This thing feels pretty zippy.

Hm...how about plugging in one of those room hepa air filters into an inverter? Might not be quite what you had in mind but probably a lot easier than the alternatives?

Thanks as always for the info nipper. Now I wish I woudn't have sold my brand new timing light thinking 'i'm done with distributors! when I sold '88 town car. Well I think I should maybe put that knock sensor back in and maybe do your hammer test. I could put it back in and see if I start getting that <3000rpm hesitation again. And/or scangauge timiing readings. Or some combination of options.....

Well, not sure if removing injectors and sending to a servicer/rebuilder was already mentioned, but if you want a serious clean quick, that might be a good option. They're a little work to get out but not too crazy. I yanked mine from '00obw and sent them in to witchhunterperformance and got them back in 4 days I think it was, $15 per injector. ultrasonic clean, replace those little filters in them, give all new o-rings and stuff, and send flow report before and after.

Thanks nipper... hm...melting of the pistons...I'm not a real experienced car guy, but I'm assuming that's bad... Just curious...what did cars do before knock sensors? Did you have to kind of be aware of what was going on or what?

Hm nipper, the idea of a new knock sensor sounds good....I mean it seems there is not a small number of posts about those things going batty. And this one is 10 years old. Then I'd have the protection of the knock sensor without the possible damage of nasty knocking. Actually I'm not even sure; would I notice knock in the passenger compartment? I just pulled it out last night since it was just one bolt and it seemed like fun and using premium gas and well maintained vehicle I figured hopefully I had no reason for knock. Actually, as you mentioned about checking mpg using the scangauge in other threads, if I ran at some given load%, could/should I expect that to be a good indicator for checking the effective timing retard on the scangauge? Thanks buddy...

You might twist the spark plug wire end clockwise and ccw a little bit to make sure it's free in the hole. If there's much oil down in there or if the previous installer really went crazy with the dielectric grease it might take a little yanking to pull it out. If the plug wires look in bad shape or you're planning on replacing them anyway, then you don't really have to worry about damaging them when taking them out. If you loose the socket or anything down in the hole while working, just make sure you have a good strong one of those extendible magnets at the ready and it'll pull it out. Taping is an excellent idea too. When you put the plugs in, I'd definitely put some antisieze on as suggested previously. And don't over torque them. The torque is almost surprisingly low.

Ah thanks for the info lekmedm. I think I have seen those a few times but I never thought what was their purpose. Now thanks to this thread I know! And after nipper puts his on and posts the pics maybe I will make an attempt! (hi nipper )

Interesting notes everyone! Those knock sensors are interesting. Functioning seems not entirely unlike an accelerometer. Anyway, drove 100 miles today, didn't get a CEL, at least not yet (I stuffed some Al foil into the inside of the knock sensor where the bolt goes and then hooked up a jumper lead between that and ground in case it was needed). My guess is if the CEL comes on it goes to maximum retardation as a fail safe. The only real thing I noticed was maybe the low end, below 3000rpm seemed to be more smooth and maybe more power. Before, the thing liked to bog down almost if getting on the gas below 3000rpm; now it doesn't seem to do that. Of course it could just be that I disconnected the battery last night so I'm not sure. Anyway I guess there really should only be a difference if the knock sensor's output was making ECU retard timing and now it isn't.