porcupine73

could you smell the gasoline inside the vehicle, i mean before this old faithful leak started? uh oh I always top off the tank too; maybe I should quit doing that?

Haven't tried cleaning that line; couple possible ideas? Maybe one of those small flexible drill ends that kind of looks like a drain snake with a brush on the end; seems like I saw something like that at the hardware store before, and/or how about pumping some kind of good warm parts cleaning fluid or mineral spirits or something through the line for a few hours to try to melt it out? This guy at work is always telling me how much he loves caustic soda for cleaning stuff but I don't even know what that is. Many years back we used trichloroethane for cleaning parts but I don't even know if you can get that anymore.

Thanks for the info guys. I told my co-worker some ideas to look for. I don't know what he's going to do with it. I'd have to ask what the engine size is. Last year the timing belt broke and he bent a lot of valves in it thus putting it out of service for about a month and costing $$$ to fix and then turbo didn't work anymore.

Well I don't think there is much difference in this case. Maybe water pump was replaced before. Other thread had a cast impeller or something that definitely looked much different. Some water pump was some 'high velocity' version for the DOHC. Maybe someone knows where that thread is....I need to cleanup my bookmarks.

I know there was a thread on here before comparing water pump types, cast impeller, stamped impeller, etc., but surely I can't find it again. Anywho, just thought I'd post this pic of the old water pump (right) I removed from my '00 OBW, and the new one I just installed (left). Don't know if the water pump was replaced previously. Just wondering if anyone had any comments? Thanks Louis

Not completely sure, but maybe many AWD/4WD vehicles recommend rotating only on the same side? Also, if you have directional tires (arrow on tire indicating rotation direction or directional tread pattern), obviously those can't be rotated to the other side.

I don't know if said Y-pipe is truly one single unit or is comprised of multiple pieces, but maybe one tricky point in doing this will be the exhaust manifold studs that subject Y-pipe attaches to on the bottom of the block. If the studs are really corroded, then you're going to have a problem getting the new Y-pipe to stay on there as bolts won't be able to put on. I know on my '96 I can see the bolts but the studs look like a couple of rusty little stubs. I know there's other posts on here about how to replace the studs and put in a Helicoil if the hole the studs thread into strip out on you. Actually I just reread your post and you say 'outer pipe'. Are you talking about the heat shield? That's very common for those things to start rattling. Just put a big worm gear hose clamp or something around it to keep it from rattling if it bothers you, but if it's just the heat shield I wouldn't mess around with trying to remove the Y-pipe.

Is this the NY forum? :cool: I wouldn't waste my money on one of those things. They're all over eBay at various prices. I don't know what's in it but would guess it's maybe a zener diode or capacitor or something. Even if you had a rock solid voltage of say 13V or whatever I don't know how that would improve performance. Those voltage stabilizers in my mind are in the same class as those gadgets on eBay that you hook up to your engine coolant temp sensor or some other sensor, said gadgets probably containing simply a resistor end goal of which maybe is to fool ECU into enriching A/F mixture, but i'd think it'll compensate for it in long term fuel trim or give a MIL.

99subrew, you can get all manner of gauges from Summit Racing or Jegs. I like Auto Meter pro-comp analog; they seem good quality. Can get ATF gauge for maybe $40-50 including sender. They also have Cyberdyne digital if you go for a more ricey look. I don't like those junk overpriced sunpr like from Pepboys. I like Summit b/c anything I order by 6PM, I get the next business day. 2X2KOB, I installed it so it goes through radiator in-tank cooler first, then aftermarket cooler.

Maybe it was taken apart previously and circlip wasn't replaced? Maybe it said it's time to get the heck out of Dodge. :-\ sorry couldn't resist.

Google search would indicate it's something like 'JDM STI Spec C Type RA imported from Japan'? Sounds pretty sweet whatever it is. Maybe could get rack from online dealer or local dealer? If it's bad maybe get it under warranty, but maybe there's heavy mods or reason to believe dealer won't honor or some other reason.

I'd say that's a pretty good price if the rest of the car is in good shape, exhaust noted. I'd check for torque bind too and give it a good look over. Maybe if you hmm and haw enough you can even get it for less.

My front sway bar snapped at 99k on my '00OBW but it seems that may have been a not uncommon issue (bad batch of parts)? Well, I guess the metal could fatigue over time maybe and give a little more than it used too. Something else to check might be the springs/ride height. The springs flex a lot, and with age I'd say they might get a little weak, and even break.

A lot of auto parts places (like auto zone) will read the codes for free (hoping you'll buy the parts to fix it from them). Make sure you write down any codes they find. If you don't know what they mean post on here and I'm sure someone will tell you or do a google search. Without reading the codes and knowing what general system(s) is/are having problem(s) it can become costly to just throw parts/sensors at it. Regular maintenance such as fuel and air filter should be done in any case. The fuel filter is pretty easy to change; hose pliers can help as the hoses seem to adhere to the barbs pretty tightly sometimes. Also might want a pack of new fuel hose clamps in case you strip out the screws on the existing ones. If you do the air filter make sure that all hoses (that might inadvertently disconnect while doing the job) are reattached. Your belts all falling off and the crank damage issue sounds like your crankshaft pulley bolt loosened up, thus letting the crank pulley move out and tilt. This can happen especially if the timing belt is replaced (or for whatever reason the crank pulley was removed) and the bolt wasn't retightened properly. It can result in a hogged out keyway on the crankshaft which can require crankshaft replacement, but it sounds like they were able to fix yours. Louis

Haven't put an ATF cooler on an Impreza Outback, but I have put them on both '96 Legacy and '00OBW. Pretty simple install if you're inclined. I figure bigger is better so I ordered medium size PermaCool heavy duty (1-1/2"thick) transmission coolers from Summit. Basically, I found the hoses going to the radiator in-tank ATF cooler ('96 Legthey're on the LH side of the radiator; '00OBW they're on the bottom), then pulled one of them off. Convenient thing was they're just hose on a barb connections, no complicated manufacturer proprietary fittings there. Then I started the engine for a second to figure out which hose was the AT outlet (the one fluid came out of) and the return (the one fluid didn't come out of). (This is also a convenient way to flush the old fluid out of the torque converter when changing out ATF; draining pan only doesn't get it all). Then connected the PermaCool in series from the radiator in-tank cooler outlet and the AT return line with the supplied PermaCool hose which seemed the right size for the barbs. The coolers are fastened between the bumper and front of the A/C coil jobby there in front of the radiator. Plenty of room there from what I remember. You could probably even fit an ATF cooler with integral fan if desired. Also installed filtration in series with the ATF cooler circuit between the AT outlet and the radiator in-tank cooler. On these vehicles, there was tons of room inside the LH fender, just pulled that plastic thing out of the way under there. The screen filter in AT doesn't get the small stuff. Even the external filter on the phase II's doesn't filter like a bypass filter to get the maybe 2um stuff. Preferably the ATF temp gauge would go near the AT outlet to let you know the fluid temp coming out (before cooling). Like to keep it below 180 deg. F, even climbing long steep hills in hot weather A/C maxed never gotten it above 210 deg. F with the cooler. After one day of climbing like this in the '96 it's slight torque bind in hard corners was gone. Suspect the cleaning action of good quality hot ATF melted off the junk on the clutches. Synthetic ATF should be more resistant to undesirable oxidation. Currently running Amsoil universal syn ATF in both vehicles and the shifting is very nice; like it a bit better than Mobil1 syn ATF which I have also tried.

Does it idle roughly? Is it MT or AT? P030(n) is cylinder (n) misfire detected. Procedure I think roughly involves checking wiring between ECU and injectors, checking resistance of fuel injector (replace if not between 5&20 ohms), check if camshaft and/or crankshaft position sensors are loosely installed, check camshaft sprockets for brkn/missing teeth, check condition of timing belt, make sure you're not low on fuel (duh), check ignitor, check spark plug condition, check spark plug wire condition, possible skipped timing belt teeth, etc :-\ Actually I think Haynes just recently did come out with a manual for newer Subaru's (there was a post on here about it somewhere), but I've found such outright errors in Haynes before that I'm not sure I want to bother. Sometimes it is a good reference tho to see how they recommend doing something without using the fancy Subaru special tools. I like techinfo.subaru.com, but sometimes the access rates seemed steep. Tho I see you can get the whole service manual on CD rom for not too crazy a price, probably well worth it if you plan to do all service on your own vehicle. I got the OE printed manuals off ebay for a little less than the CD OE price.

Not all cars are created equal when it comes to A/C. Well you might want to check the system with an A/C manifold gauge to make sure the pressures are good. Harbor Freight as one on sale now. Also running 'max A/C' over the long run will typically result in cooler flow b/c system recycles air from inside cabin instead of cooling 100% humid warm outside air. timpappas i hear you dude on the A/c on all the time man! I have it on 4 recycle all the time except winter! :cool: Anywho, there is a test procedure (at least for my '96 Legacy), involving such things as parking vehicle in shade, open all windows (with doors closed), connect manifold gauge to service valves, set for A/C max, run engine 1.5k rpm, after 10 minutes measure pressures (suction&discharge), measure temp @ inlet to blowr and oulet at dash vents, measure ambient temp&humidity near condensor, then compare results with some chart to see if it's all good.

Unless of course you're willing to pay the $$ for new OE accessories if available?

Drats. What about something like CarFax; I can't remember if it includes any details about how the car was equipped originally?

Not sure where to post this, but a co-worker has a '98 VW, I think Passat, gasoline, turbo. He just started getting sometimes when taking off from a stop some very rough running and kind of bucking feeling with like no power. He says if he applies throttle really slowly then he can get going. Once moving it seems to be OK; mostly just when getting on the throttle after being at closed throttle does there seem to be a problem. He got a check engine light the other day (after which he said it ran much better), but the light went off by itself and the problem is back. His mechanic said he couldn't duplicate the problem. So on lunch I went out and read the codes with my Actron and it came back P1127 which I think is VW specific code bank 1 rich or something. Any VW knowledgable members have any suggestions on what to try/check? Some google search said there was a TSB for this code that could occur if the oil filler cap wasn't on right or maybe fuel regulator high pressure issue. Thanks in advance!

You might try my.subaru.com; you can register and enter your VIN. I don't know if has the 'as built' info but it did show me on the used Sub's I bought all dealer service and recall work that was done and some other stuff.

I've done front O2 sensor on '96 Legacy (not Outback); not sure how similar it is to your '97OBW, but I just used unhooked the connector and put a 6pt wrench on it (I think it was like 22mm) and squeezed the wrench up in there (didn't disconnect any exhaust). It was a little bit of a snug fit reaching up in there but was doable. Maybe some of those special O2 sensor sockets would help?. The trick (for me anyway) was to run the engine for maybe a minute (to warm up the exhaust) and then press on the wrench pretty hard. The manual says not to use too much force or it could damage the bung. I bought the Bosch universal O2 sensor and had to cut the connector off the old sensor and splice it up to the new one. I wish I'd just have ordered OEM instead of being in such a hurry. Not a bad idea might be to soak on some good penetrating oil like Kroil a couple days before trying to remove it. And use a little antisieze on the new O2 sensor when putting it in of course. Oil leak could be o-ring as already mentioned and/or screws on the back cover of the oil pump backing out and pushing oil out the front crank seal. Anyway, I'd plan on replacing the timing belt too if it's old or is oil soaked as you'll have to remove the oil pump to replace the o-ring and/or check the back case screws anyway. And since changing the timing belt, checking all idlers for freeplay/grease leakage, checking out the water pump as a candidate for changeout, and replacing the cam seals maybe, and if the timing cover gasket(s) are damaged, replacing those too.

Well, I just figured I'd send them in and see what happens. I didn't have any other reason (other than mileage I guess) than I had the car down for awhile anyway for the 105k service and had the air intake stuff out of the way, washer bottle, battery, etc., so I figured it would be the perfect time to send out the injectors too. Anyway, I don't think they really needed servicing in hindsight, but it was fun nonetheless.

Not completely sure how well this would work for you, but I saw my brother do it in an old Dodge Charger that had that problem. He bought a few cans of that spray adhesive (it's actually just aeresol rubber cement); sprayed a good coating on both the headliner and the roof and let it dry, then carefully stuck it back up there. It seemed to work OK. Not sure if there's any adhesives specifically for this purpose.

'00 OBW 2.5 105k mi here, bought it one year ago, no HG issues (yet! :-\ ) Anywho, better mileage with it (up to 30mpg w/NY 10% ethanol gasoline) vs. my '96 2.2L Legacy, about 24mpg (maybe somethin's giving it lower mileage). I definitely notice much more power from the 2.5L '00OBW than in the 2.2L '96 Legacy. It's probably common on many smaller engines, but the 2.2L makes good power only above maybe 3100rpm; otherwise it feels bogged down a little when stomping on it. The 2.5L feels a lot more torquey at the bottom end than the 2.2L (to me anyway).