porcupine73

Thanks. I was looking around some, and it appears you need new proper sealant to do the job, which could add maybe $30 or so to buy that in addition to the windshield. I did see the primer, it said if the paint on the pillars under the glass is scratched at all it has to be primed first. I'm sure another possible issue will be if there is any rust on the pillars under the glass. I don't see rust there but this is an old vehicle that is rusty in most other spots. Hm so given that it would run me $100 or so to buy my own windshield, then another $30 for sealant, plus the piano wire and any other gadgets needed to do it, and the time to do it, I think I will have them come to my workplace and just get 'er done. Then I don't have to sit around at the shop waiting either. And you're right, I'm not good at it, because I've never done windshield replacement before. My brother in law said he's done it and it's not too hard if you have a helper with the piano wire. I've noticed sometimes when they quote places will have an adder for on-site service and some other things, so that $190 ish quote might have had adders. I contacted Geico to see if I could get their price from Safelite. I told them I didn't have glass coverage. So they said oh sure just file your claim and it will tell you how much it will cost. So I did that, and their response was simply 'sorry you don't have glass coverage.'

'96 Legacy Brighton, I have about a 12" long crack in the middle of the windshield. It won't pass NY safety inspection like that. Anyone replace their own windshields? Can I get one from a junkyard maybe? Or is this one of those pita jobs requiring some special tools that is best left to the professionals? I don't have glass coverage, Safelite is quoting around $230 for replacement. Lowest quote I've gotten is around $190.

Hello and welcome. It sounds to me like you might've gotten a faulty used transmission. Since this issue was not uncommon with that era trans, any used transmission in that timeframe can be suspect. On used transmissions, it having clean fluid and filter is almost a possible warning sign, as in the previous driver was having trouble with it, tried changing the fluid and filter to see if it helped, then when it didn't got rid of the vehicle when faced with the repair cost on a vehicle of that age.

Is it possible to figure it out by turning the input or one of the stub shafts and counting the rotations of the other?

There is a known issue with the compressor rotation sensor on those.

Did any '99 Legacies get the rear multilink suspension?

Do you think that could happen if someone added brake fluid to the ATF?

Yes, the cam marks on the sprocket that the cam angle sensor reads may be different between the two engines.

Is the ATF temp light flashing at all at startup? Does it seem like it is shifting at all? If not it sounds like it might be in limp mode which I think sticks in 2nd or 3rd gear all the time so you can still drive it, but right, it will feel like a dog taking off from a stop.

Right resistive loads like incandescent headlights will see the current decrease as the voltage decreases (and hence the power decreases as well). Even when the alternator says say 85A that's going to be with a cool alt and at something above idle like 3000 rpm or whatever they rate them at. At idle when it is hot the maximum output is going to be much less. I think when they say the rating whatever it is such as 3000 rpm they are referring to alternator rpm not engine rpm. I have had times in the winter when stuck for long periods in traffic with the heat on full, rear defroster on, headlights on, foot on brake where the voltage got down to like 10.7 volts. That gets a little scary because you can hear the blower start to slow down and things like that. And you can't really turn any of that stuff when it's snowing hard. So I've learned to double foot it a little in those conditions, or sometimes pull the parking brake so I can let my foot off the brake to put the brake lights out, or go to neutral. Usually any of those seem to let it not have the voltage dropping then.

Right, it's pretty easy to trap air pockets in these engines on a coolant refill if it isn't done properly.

If it is a constant kva load like an ac induction motor yes it will draw more current as the voltage decreases. But things like headlights, the defroster, and dc motors, the current draw drops as the voltage decreases.

That's true, except if the alternator is not able to put out as much current as everything is drawing, as could be the case with a hot alternator at idle with lots of accessories running. Then the battery starts to slowly discharge and the voltage starts to drop. As the voltage drops, the current draw decreases. Eventually the current draw would either drop to what the alternator is putting out or if the voltage gets low enough I imagine she will stall out. Now you did mention a 'flickering' on your dash lights. These alts are three phase, and if one or possibly two of the phases is faulty, you may notice a flickering, especially at idle because the alt is then operating at its lowest speed. Someone had mentioned before to put a voltmeter across the battery terminals but set to measure AC rather than DC. If you see much appreciable AC voltage there then one of the phases in the alt might be not outputting. That will also reduce its maximum average output, I would imagine by 1/3, so that would contribute even further to the voltage slowly dropping at idle with lots of accessories on.

Some people ask why; others ask why not. I like to use it so later on in life I can reminisce about the good 'ol days when could buy solvents that worked. Provided the phosgene doesn't get me first. That does sound pretty dangerous

Wow nice. I remember on some show on the BBC ... Top Gear maybe? They drove a heavily modified Toyota Hilux up to the arctic circle racing a sled dog team.

I think grossgary said he always gets some Subaru part # ending in what 680 or something like that for the HG's. Now I am forgetting if that was for the phase I or the phase II.

You might want to stick with the cam sprockets from original engine, if those are different, some of them had different hashes for the position sensor on the back and go with the ECU.

I bought the case of what I thought was chlorinated at Carquest, but then it was like 4 bottles chlorinated and 8 non-chlor. Non chlor is usually bunch of solvents like acetone, MEK, mineral spirits, sometimes toluene and xylene, stuff like that. The chlorinated seems to work better to me. I am surprised it was still available here in NY, since you can't get the good driveway sealer here anymore.

I've heard people say they wash them in warm water with dish soap (such as Dawn, nothing that contains any kind of moisturizer, ideally just plain soap like Cal Ben). Then they wash them with brake cleaner. Usually I hit them with brake cleaner, rub them with a rag while it's wet, then brake cleaner again and that seems to work pretty good. Except I bought a case of brake cleaner then realized most of it is non-chlorinated , it was a mixed case.

That's interesting, I've never seen anything quite like that. How do you get going on it, or handle stop and go in traffic? The first picture looks great how you're crystal clear in the foreground while the background is blurred.

I don't really know the details but I know I do get this code from time to time on my '00 Outback, mostly if it is really windy outside. I've seen it suggested a few times that it's caused by the tight specifications of the EPA (at least in the U.S.). I mentioned it to the garage I go to for inspections and they said they see cars from that era of all makes and models with that code so I don't think it's limited to just soobs.

Grossgary might have some further ideas, I think he converted a AWD Impreza to FWD and surmounted this challenge somehow.

It sounds a little strange that both the main and sub fans would suddenly go faulty like that, though if you truly tried connecting power directly to the fans from the battery, and the connections were good and the battery charged, and they didn't work, that appears to be what happened. The ECU controls the cooling fans based on various inputs, such as temperature, vehicle speed and whether or not the a/c compressor is on. At low speed if the fans aren't working, you will notice the a/c start to blow warm because it cannot simply reject all the heat out the condensor. Conventional single stage R134A systems have a maximum temp differential of about 90F. example

There will sometimes be slight bubbling on the stick due to aeration of the fluid. ATF has additives (usually silicone based) to help keep aeration to a minimum. That's one of the main downsides though if it were overfilled, that the fluid may churn more than normal and entrain air, and air bubbles trapped in the fluid obviously do not lubricate as well as without.

It's always a pain to read those. On the soobs I always read them cold. I know the manual says it's better to read it warm but I don't usually do it that way. When its cold it's pretty easy to get the reading after a couple tries. I'm assuming what you mean by the different quantities of fluid you listed is between the 4EAT phase I and the 4EAT phase II. I think it will be tough to use the amount of fluid drained from the pan to prove it was overfull. Especially because as mentioned the difference between the low and full marks is not a whole lot. If you get it overfull enough, it will let the fluid out a breather hose.