porcupine73

In thinking about it, sitting stopped with a/c on hi, both rad fans running, blower motor on hi, brake lights on, fuel pump, and everything else who knows that could be 40 amp draw or more. The alternators on these things are rated at what 70 amps maybe, but that's going to be cool and at some rpm above idle. I think these alts just can't put out 40+ amps hot at idle. So then the battery starts discharging slowly, and you see the commensurate voltage drop, until the voltage drops enough that the total current draw drops to what the alternator is actually putting out.

I think usually the outlet circuits are tied in with something else that would be an intermittent draw like the mirrors. In the mid 90's there was a problem on some soobs with that fuse blowing, because the wiring to the power mirror could get pinched or chaffed under the plastic.

Does your plastic underdoor have the pull out panels? Sometimes those can help to get the needed access. If yours has the slotted head plastic screw in the bottom of the rad that can work. Just make sure to get the right size screwdriver in there, usually a pretty big one, that plastic thing will strip out pretty easily. Even with the right size Phillips type screwdriver I find it still doesn't seem to fit quite right, leading me to think that plastic 'screw' might actually be JIS.

There have been a few cases where the transistor in the ECU that controls the fuel pump relay goes bad. Someone had a nice thread with photos on here about how they repaired it some years back. I think others have used a toggle switch to then control the relay instead of having to repair the ECU.

It looks nice. In about 10 years maybe I can get one :-p. There was a TSB about for some models for the reversing problem. I think it basically said the gearing was too tall in reverse, so they would flash it to bring the reverse gearing down if you had the problem. It said something about they used a tall gearing in reverse to keep it from being too 'jumpy', you know from taking off too quickly in reverse. Of course that would be better than not being able to reverse out of a sloped parking spot. The new car smells are interesting. It's not nice, however, what causes 'new car smell'. Chemically sensitive people can't tolerate it and often have to purchase cars at least five years old. It's actually the offgassing of all the plastic and carpeting and stuff in the interior, like if you get new carpet in your home. It usually offgasses formaldehyde (which the body metabolizes to methanol) and a host of other things. Usually it's pretty well done offgassing after about 10 years.

I actually see this on all my Subaru's, two of which have recent genuine reman alts. If sitting at a long traffic light for example it will go from 13.4V or so at first and slooowwlyyy drop as low as 11 volts if it's sitting for like four minutes or more. That's with say a/c on hi, lights on, brake lamps lit. I think the once the alternators are hot, at idle they just can't put out enough current to run all that stuff.

Oh ok thanks. Yes plus since Allison has their own fluid they license they probably would rather not have too many approved alternates.

Not to beg to differ points that aren't directly related ... but right on the bottles it lists not to use it in certain power steering or differential applications that called for older specs of Dexron. Also some transmission makers such as Allison have not approved Dexron VI for use in their applications that used to call for a previous spec of Dexron.

Carquest filters are also made by Wix. I can't remember I think Carquest has a 'white' and a 'blue' style filter I think but it's been a long time since I've been there. One of them was made by Wix iirc.

I have a feeling that 'back up oil filter' might be the ATF filter as pictured above. It's also possible someone added something aftermarket such as a bypass oil filter at some point. I would think before using a flush on that engine. If it is already leaking using a flush is likely only going to make it worse. Subaru engines don't normally sludge up too much even if neglected, unlike some of the other japanese engines where they routed the oil passages through hot areas in the heads, those sludge up quickly if not given synthetic oil.

Another interesting product I've seen is Schaeffer's #132 Moly E.P. oil treatment. Schaeffer's has a somewhat odd distribution method though making it tough to find sellers of some of its products.

Some people do multiple drains and refills. I like to drain from the pan drain plug, then pull one of the lines going to the radiator cooler, pour say 5 quarts in the dipstick tube, start it up and let a quart or two pump out, shut her down, then add another quart or two in the dipstick tube, and repeat a few times until what's coming out looks fresh. It's not perfect since there will still be some mixing of fluid but it's a fairly easy way to do it. Dexron VI is typically backwards compatible for GM automatic transmission applications, but it is not backwards compatible for all applications that called for earlier specs of Dexron.

Sounds good, I think even Walmart has the gallon Rotella jugs, I think they were around $15 last time I saw them. Autozone has them too. I believe the lowest weight the manual recommends for that engine is 10w30 anyway. They only went to 5w30 in the mid 90's for fuel economy reasons, following suit with other manuf's, though I don't think they've gone so far as the 0w20 yet like Ford. Assuming that's got an auto trans, probably the only other main thing to watch for is the condition of the ATF, especially in the hot weather driving. The AT will usually last if the fluid is kept fresh. On those years I think they added the external filter in the front left fender area, could be an idea to check that/replace it/add it if it doesn't have it. It keeps the cooler in the rad from getting plugged up with shreddings come out of the AT, which then results in the AT overheating.

Wow that's amazing, great photos and story. It looks like it was a wonderful trip. Once in a great while I will see a nice older Subaru around here but it is always with out of state plates since after about 10 years here cars just rot.

That could be, I remember Subaru calling the routing of the pigtail the 'cord extraction angle' or something like that. I assume that has to do with the translation. I have an image of that somewhere...

It's probably a very infrequently needed part so I doubt there would be much in the aftermarket for it. Used sourced through car-part.com as mentioned or take a look here looks to be about $150.

I'm not sure 2001 had the immobilizer? Check out cars101.com, Joe would definitely have those details on the site.

HDD, heavy duty diesel oil. The engine will tolerate even up to 20W50 even in cool weather. Personally I would skip the 'stop leak' and just add makeup oil as often as needed, unless it gets really really bad. If you're budget minded, something like the gallon jugs of Rotella 10W40 are usually reasonably priced. If it's burning oil, the extra phosphorous may hasten the spoiling of your cats thoguh.

Yes they claim Dexron VI is backwards compatible -- it may work just fine however it does not necessarily mean it is the best choice for the application. That is more to put retailers and service shops at ease that it's not yet another fluid they need to stock.

I remember there being a long thread on SubaruOutback about this issue on ~2005 XT's, the temp climbing like that even on slight grades. There is a TSB out for some of the turbos of this era saying the coolant must be refilled under vacuum.

Usually on the bottles it will say something like 'for applications formerly calling for Dexron II/III/IIIe, something like that. I would avoid any of the latest specs such as Dexron VI. These are thinner than older Dexron's and much more heavily friction modified.

That seems insanely high, I mean that is not that much labor to replace those boots. You don't need an alignment afterwards if you just count the turns when taking off the outer tie rod end. Hm in rethinking it, I guess if that includes parts and labor, and is at a stealership, that is probably not all that bad a price.

Sometimes when taking off the rear rotors, especially in rusty areas, I have seen the lining just fall off the parking brake shoes. If that happened and they didn't fix it, it could cause that problem. Most likely though they just backed off the adjusters when removing the old rotors and didn't readjust them properly.

Ah yes I know those sockets with the pins, I have some of those. I think they were called Gator Grip. I see Amazon has some of them.

It can even be removed all together by replacing with about 560 kilo-ohm resistor. It's just then if there is knocking the ECU won't know about it so long term it could cause damage. I've done that on one of my soobs and it seems fine if premium fuel is run, but it will knock a bit at high load, low rpm's when it's hot, like going up a hill without downshifting.