porcupine73

No that thing would be worthless. It says 'High Power 4.5 amp 12 volt Supercharger,'. That's about 50 watts. That is hardly high power. A typical ceiling fan would have more power than that.

There are electric superchargers that use a bank of batteries to power it, but the problem is it adds a lot of weight. The problem with electric is the amount of power required to compress the air. When you're talking say 14psi boost at 400CFM flow, that takes many horsepower to compress the air. So that might take who knows, 1000 amperes at 12 volts? That'd be 12kw. Plus the cost of a 12kw 12VDC motor is not going to be cheap, plus heavy.

Sometimes when the value of Al scrap is up you can get a few $ by taking radiators, old water pumps, stuff like that in. Usually price is better for 'clean' scrap, i.e. you removing any plastic and stuff like that from it first. Or maybe you could rig up an older supercharger to it. There was a guy on here who had an old Mercedes supercharger set up to run off the power steering belt. Then you could route that through your intercooler.

Since it's not a dealership they will probably be using a PCI or similar timing belt kit on it. If they buy any volume of parts they are probably getting that for a couple 100$, then the rest is labor I would imagine.

Probably. It's just going to increase pressure drop in the intake, making it less efficient. The intercooler on a turbo engine is to knock out or reject the heat of compression from the turbo when it is in boost. Cooler air is denser, and thus with more air into the engine, more fuel can also be injected, and give more power. But on the n/a engine, there is no heat of compression because there is no turbo, so provided the existing intake is taking air from the fender or just under the hood lip, it's already going to be pret near ambient temp, and the intercooler will not reduce the intake air temp at all, and hence will just add restriction/pressure drop to the intake.

Thank you all very much for the help. I tried tightening the axle nut, it's probably a bit snug at around 170 ft-lb now. That seems to reduce it a little bit, but it is still slightly sloppy. I have the bearing kit on the way and just picked up the HF front wheel bearing adapters with the 20% off coupon. Thanks for the offer on the 1/2 price set Rooster, I just picked up the set at the store before seeing the thread.....suppose I could return this one though. I'll see how it feels after the brake stuff is off and the axle is out.

What is it going to do on a n/a engine? Nothing except introduce additional restriction to the intake. The n/a engine has no heat of compression to be knocked out of the intake air stream.

Thanks Gary I appreciate the info. I ordered the bearing kit. I think I will attempt it with the harbor freight front wheel bearing adapters.

I can feel a little bit of looseness when shaking the front right wheel on '00 Outback 175k miles. Ball joint, strut, and tie rod end are all tight. I can still feel the looseness in the hub just a little bit even with the wheel off. When spinning the wheel and feeling the strut spring, or using a stethoscope on the spring, I do not hear any grinding or abnormal noise at all. I guess that's the part I'm confused about, it seems for wheel bearings people usually say there will be a grinding or rumbling? I don't notice any grinding or anything, even in turns (though it does seem to have a pretty good shimmy/shaking in the steering wheel that comes and goes). Snugging up the axle nut a bit seems to make it a bit less loose....maybe that is the telltale sign?

That was probably supposed to be a special offer for a very limited audience, then the word got out, and they probably got absolutely swamped with orders. At that price they certainly aren't making any money on that offer, I mean shipping alone is going to cost them at least half that.

Hm, I didn't even think about it until I saw another post in this thread, but I didn't receive the order, and it's been several weeks. I'm not sure if they chared my credit card though...I'd have to go back and look.

I like the good breaker bar and long pipe too. No need to unstake with that. I have used impact too and that works very well but I saw Subaru said they don't recommend using impact because of possible injury to wheel bearings.

Woohoo congrats! You know one thing I love about the '96 - it resets all inspection I/M's every time the key is turned off, so it gets exempted from needing to have them set. That means if you have a CEL problem, if you can unhook the battery and reconnect it, and start it, and the light stays off, you can pass basic inspection! (Normally you can't do that, because then the I/M's are not ready after unhooking the batt).

Yes flat rate payed techs sometimes replace just one HG to keep the time down.

Can you hit CTRL+J? In firefox that will bring up the download list. But your browser might be different.

Hm how many miles are on? Has the valve clearance ever been checked/adjusted? If not one or more valves on that cylinder might not have any slack and be on the verge of not closing all the way. How's the power in general? If it's feeling sluggish/rough, timing could be off a tooth.

If you didn't have to add any oil in 3000 miles it sounds like it can't be leaking too badly. Maybe some aluminum foil or flashing would help keep it off the exhaust at least. I follow the Microsoft model for support: offer correct, but useless, information. :-p

So when you swapped the wires around, do you mean the misfire stayed with the plug wire? Or did it stay on the same cylinder?

I think you can read the codes out of the airbag controller similar to getting the TCU to flash out the codes. That would be the first step. It could be an impact sensor or something unrelated to the clockspring.

If that's an auto trans, make sure to research the torque converter seating as well when mating up the replacement engine.

From what I've seen others mention, the original rear main doesn't usually leak, but often does leak after it is replaced.

Well it's not that the manufacturers want to warranty emissions that long. Our friendly government requires it I believe, because the know individuals are say 93% more likely to not get it fixed or try to circumvent it if they have to pay for it out of their own pocket. We all pay for it in the end anyway.

That would be the oil pressure switch, they do leak like that sometimes. There is no seal to replace, just replace the switch. You can get generic aftermarket switches, it's 1/8" bsp thread. Some thread sealant is needed.

Dang that sounds bad. It's a good thing the wheel didn't come off while driving. It sounds like the rotor was held back by the caliper, which was keeping the hub from coming completely out.

Good report, and glad the fix is done! I haven't had any wheel bearing issues yet but will keep this option in mind when it happens.