porcupine73

Another question is...why did Subaru change to 5W30 from 10W30 as the recommendation in 1996? It is interesting. They mentioned once on Endwrench "Engine oil viscosity for all 1996 Subaru Legacy and Subaru Legacy Outback vehicles is specified as 5W-30 to improve fuel economy."

Subarupartsforyou.com was nice enough to fax over the diagrams. I did find them after on opposedforces, but it was in a category called 'manipulation'.

Does anyone have a diagram of the shift cable and the other parts in that area? I can't find it even on opposedforces. All this stuff is super rusty so I'm going to need the cable and adjustment rod and nuts and any other little stuff that is in there.

Ok....now the shifter doesn't work at all. I think the cable broke off. Fortunately I can reach in under the hood and shift it by hand on the transmission for now. Hopefully I can replace that cable without unhooking the exhaust, this thing is so rusty dropping the exhaust would not be easy.

If he hit a pothole he might have dented the transmission pan or possibly messed up the spin on filter (I think that car would have one).

There is a vent tube, but if it is blowing ATF out the vent that doesn't sound right. Was the ATF serviced recently or anything? One thing that likes to happen on these, is the metal ATF cooler lines running up to the radiator can rust out in the rust belt areas. That will let you lose a lot of ATF fast. Or if his has the external spin on ATF filter (4eat phase II), sometimes those get dented or could rust out too. There is a double lip oil seal between the trans input shaft and the front diff. I think someone did say they had something like this happen when that failed....

I think that might be it, at least for mine. I finally got upset enough with having wet pants to check this out. The water drip comes in behind the weatherstripping it looked like. From outside the car I could see it would come from above. So I looked under that black trim and on both sides there was tons of mud and garbage in the rails blocking that drain. So I used some q-tips to dig it all out, sheesh it was cleaning out a toilet drain or something in there. Then I poured some water down through to verify it was clear. The water comes out behind the front fenders, just in front of the doors. So I think with the roof drains blocked, the water backed up in the roof drain, and then made its way behind the weatherstripping, and ONTO THE SEATS!!

First question on a trans swap..... assuming it is AWD, are you sure your rear differential matches the transmission ratio? What model and year soob are we talking about? The 1-2 hard shift is often mentioned on the 90's models. Sometimes people say the dropping resistor (which helps modulate line pressure) can cause that. 2-3 shift 'slip'. May not be a true slipping, if the RPM is just flaring between shifts, it is probably the band adjustment.

I don't know for sure. There was some report of a possible blocked oil gallery leading to the valvetrain on one of the sides of the engine, so there wasn't much oil getting there, and that could let the lifters lose prime. Usually I fish a length of bare 14 ga solid copper wire through the oil passages when I do the timing belt/valve cover gaskets just in case.

If you have a Haynes manual it shows how to prime and check them. I guess if they are pumped too much not in oil they can lose their prime. Haynes shows something about using a paper clip or something too during the priming in oil. I've never had to mess with them yet.

Another possibility could be a partially blocked heater core.

The squishy ones that won't pump up if immersed in oil need to be replaced. They do go bad. Might be able to pick up some used ones in the classifieds.

Also check inside the bulb sockets. There was a TSB or maybe it was on Endwrench about that year they had found a few where there was a stray piece of wire inside the socket that would short out sometimes.

T70 probably you'll have to order, that's just a little too big for most places to carry it. Tool trucks would probably have it, given that Subaru and maybe other automakers are using them for drain plugs now.

Hm well I don't know how long term of a solution this will be, but I cut a piece of 1" pvc pipe lengthwise, filed it for smooth edges, and put it over the part of the cable that was bending, and used duct tape and zip ties to hold it together and in place. It actually seems to be working pretty well. I can at least get it into drive, and 3 and 2. It won't go to 1 unless you really move it fast but I just don't want to be somewhere and not be able to get it into drive. Doat!

haha yes you also need decoy keys, like keys that don't fit your car. Then the thief looks in the easy spots, finds a key or two, doesn't fit.

I'm having some trouble with the automatic transmission shifter on my '94 Legacy 2.2L. Sometimes when I go to shift to say 1 2 or 3, it doesn't engage. I looked underneath at what is happening. Sometimes the shift cable inside the rubber boot at the transmission end bends up or down like in a U shape, instead of extending out completely to move the lever on the trans. What's the fix for that? Replace that cable? The shifter moves OK at the trans end by hand, it's doesn't take a lot of force to move it. I messed with the shifter cable like pushing on it, now much of the time it won't even go into drive before that cable bends.

Would this one work? It fits a Subaru in the bottom.... http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99061

Someone was saying something recently about using something like a yard stick but maybe longer and reaching through and getting the lock on the opposite door?

The 4.99 air cutoff tool from Harbor Freight could chop the axle in two. When is not available, zzz is the next option.

Gauge should be right around in the middle. However, the gauge doesn't really move much in the range of say 170F to 205F, it's made to stay pretty level in that area. For a more accurate reading, use a code reader or tool capable of reading the engine coolant temp sensor value out of the ECU.

There is a pressure regulator on the fuel rail, a back pressure regulator really, goes about 34psig to 44psig or so, adjusts it against manifold vacuum to keep the differential pressure between the intake and fuel injectors roughly constant. The pump also has an internal pressure relief around 65psig or so.

You should get 12V for 1-2 seconds when the key goes from acc to run, that is the ECU hitting the fuel pump relay to power the pump to prime it. It should also get 12V in crank (or when engine is running). You could potentially use some jumpers to apply 12V to the pump to see if it is working, just to rule out any other possible wiring issues. But...if you haven't checked fuel pressure while cranking, etc....and you are just thinking, car died, maybe fuel pump is bad.... it would be far far more likely to be that your timing belt snapped or jumped teeth.

Hm...is your IACV intake hose firmly 'plugged into' the intake? If not it allows air to bypass the MAF and it will act all kinds of weird for idling. This hose often pops off when the air filter is replaced.