porcupine73

It's your spark plug tube seal/gasket. Those shrink with age and then let oil leak down into the tube. If enough oil gets in there, it can cause misfire.

What is that? One of the 'brown gas' generators? The problem I see with those setups, is it takes energy to do electrolysis on the water to separate it into hydrogen and oxygen. So that gets recombined in the engine, which does release a lot of energy, but not more energy than it took to do the electrolysis to begin with, which, being that the alternator is providing that power, is far less than 100% efficient. Any 'efficiency' gains by mixing the gas with gasoline while burning I think would be more than lost by the inefficiency of electrolysis and extra weight in the vehicle of the equipment and water.

Glad you got the banjo bolt size. I tried to measure it but it's not really easy to access those with the transmission in the normal position.

I know which bolt you are talking about, that is the banjo bolt for the fluid supply or return. I have an '00obw that is up on stands in the garage...so when I get home tonight, I can try to see what size that is. Could be 22mm, that would make it the same as the crank pulley bolt.

Also if necessary as a temporary fix, I have used good (Scotch) electrical tape to prevent the arcing. That usually works if it is arcing to the intake manifold.

Tried to run it through autocheck but it said invalid vin.

I don't know if it was that Bosch part #, but I used a Bosch universal splice-in on my '96 2.2L some years back and it fit fine.

Hm...main issue there might be getting a 2.2L to work....because the 2000 Outback engine uses the MAP/speed density method for airflow measurement...whereas the 2.2L, at least from the 90's used the MAF. But even if getting the wiring harness and ECU, I don't know that would easily interface to the 4EAT phase II TCU....but other than that, I would imagine if it works, and the CEL is off, and all the I/M's go to ready (so do not use a 96 ECU, and the charcoal canister and purge etc solenoids are required), then it should pass NY basic emissions inspection. If you have to do a dyno run or tail pipe sniff test those can be tricky. If yours is just dripping coolant out the HG's...they can run like that for a long time if you keep the radiator full. Sometimes the coolant additive can help at least slow down that drip.

The rotor is too small for the left bracket. It has 10.7" rotors on it, but through measuring, the left caliper/bracket could fit an 11.5" rotor, which is what it looks like late 2000 on up had. I was thinking about these rotors...... I think the zero is for zero braking. I think what happened was when I got the left caliper, he asked me what size rotors I had, and I said 11" (I measured them at 10.9" so I rounded up). So I think he gave me the caliper for 11.5" rotors, instead of for the 10.7".

Hm....let's see Wix says 51334 for the 2.2L.....hm says the same, 51334 for the SVX. Hm actually Wix says the same thing 51334 for the Tribeca too. So we know the engine oil filter nipple is the same size and thread spacing. On the 90's 2.2L the limiting factor would be the diameter, if it is too large around it will hit the back of the timing belt cover. But it could be probably a good 8 to 10 inches long before length would be an issue.

Thanks for the help! I fueled up today, and I've never been so happy to hear that hisssss when removing the cap. So that means the leak is fixed successfully.

It seems to vary with build date, some info I could find looked like after about 07/00 had the 11.5" rotors. These were new pads I put on too, now that set is ruined because it is worn a groove into the pads because the rotor wasn't large enough to sweep the whole area.

The timing is not really adjustable, it's either dead on or off a tooth (or more). I've had the 'won't come out of park' thing on a few of my soobs. Usually I just jam a pen in the override slot and leave it that way. It can be the little solenoid is sticky for the release, or like you said the inhibitor switch, since I think it fires that solenoid only in park and maybe neutral.

I replaced both front calipers, each side a few months apart, on my 2000 Outback last winter because they siezed up. I had noticed the brakes felt a little odd after that. Well I think I just figured out why..... On the front left I must've gotten a 2001 caliper, because the pads don't quite completely contact the rotor, and there's an extra 1/4"+ gap between the rotor and caliper bracket. Somehow I did not notice this when I put the caliper on. Looks like 2000 had 10.7" rotors, while 2001 had 11.5".

Thanks. I mean a way to download all their Subaru documents without having to go through the menu picking the make, model, and year for every combination.

Knock sensor couldn't be easier to replace.

Hm yes that is interesting....very interesting....if you play with the number in the URL for the PDF downloads you get different things, like Audi bulletins, etc. Would be nice to find a way to download all the Subaru stuff from there.

4 inch play? Hm....did some of these engines have a potential oil starvation problem for one of the cams due to a blocked oil passage....which could lead to that cam seizing, and stripping a bunch of teeth on the belt?

That's just before all the idlers were back in. Provided all those marks are still lined up after all the idlers are back in, and before the pin is pulled it is fine. If you're lining up the crank sprocket hash mark, and the cam hash marks are still lining up with the covers, it should be fine (won't line up though with the belt marks on every revolution). If these are lining up, redoing it will not make it any more accurate. But yes, with your compression numbers, either the timing is off, or maybe there was some kind of engine damage, or maybe you have the sheared cam keys mentioned previously.

Hm ok then with your compression readings, something else must be amiss. I have seen people say one or both of the cam keys sheared or bent and threw the cam timing off, even though the marks were lined up. If yours stripped that many teeth, maybe that happened to yours if the cam suddenly came to a stop? I like to use the same pics over and over haha. The clothes pin just barely fits in the crank sprocket. Someone on here mentioned about using clothes pins. It isn't really needed on the sohc but I bet they would really help on the dohc.

I know you're saying all the marks are correct....but they can't possibly be based on your compression readings unless the engine suffered some damage. You're sure you used the hash marks everywhere, and not the arrows? Or, I have seen sometimes people say the camshaft key gets sheared or bent, but it isn't obvious at first, so the cam timing is actually off even when the mark is lined up.

Hm yah that doesn't sound right, a mark on the crank pulley bolt? That one should be the little hash mark on the crank sprocket, with the notch on the back of the oil pump like so:

It's non-interference so there shouldn't be any damage. What marks did you use when lining up the cam sprockets? You need to use the little hash marks. Do NOT use the arrows. If it stripped that many teeth maybe your geared/toothed idler is shot? That one fails quite a bit and dumps out the little ball bearings everywhere.

pm sent

That's what I'm talking about, the small wire that engages the solenoid. If the thick starter ground and + cables are connected....and the little spade lug on the starter is jumped to the battery +....and it still doesn't crank (which from reading this sounded to me like that the OP is saying happened), then what to do? If the starter tested good out of the vehicle, but then does not work in the vehicle when this test is done, could be the battery cables? Engine siezed?