porcupine73

Dumb question, but did you release the fuel tank pressure by loosening the gas cap before starting? Any vapor pressure from the fuel can cause it to flow. Also it may be back siphoning from the fuel filter since that sits higher up than the pump.

$103 for the tensioner or the o2 sensor? Not a bad idea to check some of the online Subaru dealers prices just for reference. Ones like 1stsubaruparts.com would be more up your direction. For the front O2, I would suggest looking into the genuine sensor from Subaru because of the connector (Sometimes aftermarket doesn't fit even though they say it is direct fit, or doesn't seem to work quite right even if it does fit).

Did you try running it with the front o2 sensor unhooked (don't know if that had a rear o2 or not). Cat in another thread did that to diagnose symptoms kind of like this, and noted it ran OK with the front o2 unhooked, just maybe something quick to try.

Hm, ok, well that is interesting! I have heard people say the front o2 has given them symptoms like that, but maybe not quite so bad. It can run indefinitely without a front o2. It just stays in open loop A/F ratio control without feedback from the o2. Fuel economy may suffer a little, and it probably won't pass an emissions inspection that way, but it can certainly run like that until you get a replacement. The connectors are sometimes a little funny on ~2000's, sometimes aftermarkets claiming to be a 'direct fit' end up having a different connector on them or cause other issues on the front.

Unplugging the front o2 could be a diagnostic. You should then get a CEL for the circuit, and it will simply stay in open loop.

Shops, esp dealers, often quite a pretty high price for that job because of the labor. I think someone mentioned it is around 11 hours depending on what book you use. I believe for your engine Subaru issued multi layer steel (MLS) HG's. Someone who does these regularly such as grossgary could probably give you the part # to get, because sometimes shops have old style laying on the shelf or you get a different superseded part #. There's a few other steps involved, such as proper cleaning, possible milling of the heads/surface finish, and the right tightening sequence and torque for the HG's you get.

Not sure if this is what you are asking, but the '99 probably had the 'super enhanced' evap with the canister under the rear of the vehicle (rather than the old underhood type).

If it was pushed out, and there was oil there, that could have been the screws backing out. Then the oil can travel under pressure along the crank and push the seal out. That was more in the mid 90's so they might not be thinking about it as much anymore. Make sure all repairs are documented, because if it's the screws backing out, it will most likely happen again.

Looking at cars101.com it says the '97 Legacy GT had the 'sport tuned suspension'. Not sure who originally made that. I know some of the years GT's had Bilstein struts.

That sounds odd. Was it leaking oil out the seal, or did it get pushed out? The older soobs sometimes had the screws on the back of the pump loosen up, and let oil leak along the shaft and out the seal. Sometimes it could even push the seal out. If that's what was happening, and they simply replaced the seal, maybe that's the real issue on yours.

Hello and welcome to the board! If you'll be pulling the engine to replace the clutch anyway, you might want to give it a timing belt kit while it's out. If the HG's are original or are suspicious in any way that would be a reasonable time to replace them too. These two actions will help with the reliability, especially if you are planning to bolt on forced induction. Since you want to mod it you could also look into delta cams. Bolting on a turbo to an n/a engine has been done; usually the rule of thumb is to stay below 8psig boost on the n/a's.

Those part #'s kind of look like KYB part #'s even though they don't say it is KYB. If you go to KYB's site, and download their application guide, you can check out what part # it is for yours and see if it matches. It would be ideal to replace both sides at the same time for consistent handling if budget allows.

Main thing is the final drive ratio must match on both transmissions, or you need the rear differential that goes with the replacement transmission (and possibly TCU to keep shift points correct). (Assuming yours is AWD). Somewhere on here there was a spreadsheet with the trans codes and what the ratios are etc..... The donor Impreza, did it have the 2.2L also? Or the 1.8L (can't remember what year those stopped).

Thanks. I thought about replacing that section of line (the air ventilator pipe) with all hose, but ended up ordering the actual part instead. (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=129301) I stuck a drinking straw into the body where that air ventilator line passes through the body, and I could smell the gasoline, so I believe that line has a hole/leak in it where it passes through the body. Which also explains why I can smell it inside the vehicle after it sits overnight (except now I have been leaving the gas cap loose, and i don't smell it inside anymore). Using compressed air to find the leaks is interesting, how much pressure can you safely apply before the tank gets unhappy? I saw some plans to build an evap smoke machine from a DJ fog machine, that looks pretty interesting.

I've had a pitted piston on one of my soobs too. I guess the thing is, you can't really know if it is pitted until you take it apart. So if planning to rebuild it, maybe taking it apart first to inspect it is an idea. Though of course that means more down time if you don't already have the reseal kit and/or replacement caliper on hand.

Well, if it's just a backup, how about just leaving the thermostat out like it was and driving it that way? It's not ideal of course, but as a backup it might work that way for a while. The problem usually just gets worse though.

Hm....in considering to keep it or auction it...(I'm assuming it has auto trans). Does it have the slow to engage into drive issue with the the auto trans? If yes I might be hesitant to put all the time, effort and money into HG's. In which case auctioning it and maybe looking into a different soob might be tempting. Timing belt is sort of a wash, as in, it could very well need one even if the HG's weren't a problem. Also some of the '99s had some flaky speedometers/dashes.

I don't know how 'fast' the Trans-X is supposed to fix the delayed engagement. I would think it would take it a little while anyway for it to work. I am guessing it contains extra seal swell agents to seal up the drum a bit better.

Ahhh good idea, vacuum cleaner secrets! Oh...you've got the dreaded delayed engagement to drive. It is possible then that maybe some sludge or gunk was helping to seal up that drum. Did you read the Trans-X thread? Many people claim that helped their slow engagement.

If it won't crank, and the problem is with the starter, sometimes if you give the starter a little love tap with a small hammer that will coax it into working. But if that works then it does mean the starter needs servicing or replacement.

Your diagnosis sounds correct, those are tell tale signs of the exhaust blowing into the coolant. Normally the engine gets pulled for the head gasket job. Since it is quite possible it was overheated in the past, the heads need to checked for level, and if off, milled to the proper surface finish. Since it may have been overheated in the past, replacing the water pump is a good idea. So....it might was well get a timing belt kit while its apart and valve clearance check. I've seen write ups of doing the later SOHC heads without removing the engine but it looks tight, the DOHC would only be even tighter if it's possible.

Parts cost for timing components and water pump could be around $200 if getting the PCI or Gates kits such as off eBay. For genuine parts it gets expensive fast, mainly because the idlers are pricey. You can check out genuine parts prices at many web sites such as 1stsubaruparts.com subarupartsforyou.com and so on.

What brand/type plugs and wires are in there?

Either the lock and/or guide pin, and/or piston can get seized up or not move freely causing dragging. Also the brackets can get rusty so that there isn't enough clearance between the pads where they contact the bracket. You can get the reseal kits for these if you want to rebuild them yourself. Some people report good results doing it. I didn't have good luck rebuilding mine, but the remanufactured ones that include the bracket make the job very easy. The biggest problem I've found on these older soobs with the brakes is getting out the bolts holding the bracket to the bearing housing. Heat, Kroil and patience will usually get them out. But they can snap off. Other than that the brakes are pretty simple on the Soobs. If you have rear drums those are pretty simple too. Here's some images I have from '96...similar to yours I would think.

Thanks for the part # help, that is it! I used a drinking straw to sniff around this ventilator pipe. It's definitely my leak source, right where it passes through the body. They added the part to their site so I was able to order it: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=21510 I left the gas cap a bit loose. I was pleased that I do not smell gasoline inside the car anymore after it is parked. That was nasty. Nothing like having the window down to air it out when it's about 20 degrees out!