porcupine73

It may sound differently when cranking if the timing belt has snapped depending on the position of the cam(s) and whether any valves got bent. The timing belt cover behind the coolant overflow reservoir is easy to remove, just pull out the reservoir (two bolts at the top), then remove 3 bolts on that cover, pop it off, and you can see if the belt is broken.

Now make sure to clean off any traces of ATF from the vacuum before the wife spots it.... Overfilled AT may not not necessarily give any symptoms. There is a vent on the AT, so if it is way overfilled, the fluid will come out the vent tube...I have tested it. One of the bigger problems in overfilled AT can be air entrainment in the fluid. That can cause slight lack of lubrication between parts. Sometimes if the air bubbles collapse under pressure it can also cause cavitation erosion on parts. Overfilling can sometimes also cause trouble with oil seals that are intended to only have the static liquid head pressure on them more or less, and that increases if there's too much fluid.

It sounds like you killed the tensioner. You should not be able to compress it with your fingers. That newer style tensioner doesn't seem as stout as the older type. I know you need the car to get to class, but I wouldn't drive it without getting a new tensioner. If the timing jumps enough you could bend valves. Don't know about the Napa tensioner, haven't tried it, not sure they would have it in stock.

I believe a number of people were going with Radiatorbarn.com. Looks like the genuine runs around $310 for the auto trans and $270 for the manual trans.

There was a TSB out for some soobs I think from that era, something about the fuel injector design could allow for condensation to freeze at the tips, resulting in a hard start/no start condition in low temps?

Thanks for the info. . You threw out my part?!?! just kidding. That plastic bushing thing does look tricky. I started poking / picking at the backside of this pipe with a screwdriver and it does not look good at all, so I stopped. I assumed it was the fuel filler pipe so I already have that part on hand. I thought about maybe just replacing it with hose but probably might as well just get the right part.

In inspecting the fuel smell from my '96 Legacy Brighton, I don't think it is coming from the fuel filler pipe. I think it is coming from the vapor pipe or whatever it's called. From opposedforces, it looks like it is called 'air ventilator pipe'. This pipe connects to the hose that connects to that little side pipe coming off the fuel filler pipe. Then it runs through the body (which is probably why I can smell it so much inside the car). Then to another hose. It looks like to replace it, it would be easiest if the fuel filler pipe were removed. I wonder if I can just pinch this hose off? I suspect that might make the fuel fill nozzle click off though unless set to a very slow rate..... It appears to be item 7 in: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_28/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/fuel_piping/illustration_4/

I've really only ever been able to get a good reading cold. I know they want you to use the 'operating temperature' hot reading but I simply have not been able to read it very well that way. Of course, if you pour ATF in the dipstick hole, you'll have to pull the stick in and out about three times wiping it each time and not even trying to read it before you can then try to read it again. It's almost more of a 'voting' type thing, like trying to see the most obvious fluid line on either side of the stick while ignoring the 'noise' of spurious fluid.

Thanks! I'm looking at it right now.....the fuel fill pipe actually doesn't look too bad. I don't really feel or see any major weak spots in it but I guess that doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't have a pinhole leak in it. But... that little line that comes off the side, I think for the canister? That goes to a hose, then to a piece of pipe that goes through the body, then to another hose. That piece of pipe does not look to be in very good shape at all. Since I soaked everything with penetrating oil I am having trouble kind of sniffing to where the gasoline is actually coming from. Otherwise I thought I could use a short length of hose and kind of move it around while sniffing through it to maybe pinpoint the source better. If it's that little piece of pipe for canister...I'm wondering if I can just plug that off at the fuel filler pipe and maybe where it goes to the canister under the hood. I know we're not supposed to do that but it would still be better than leaking gasoline fumes. The '96 resets all I/M's every startup anyway so that wouldn't matter. But I guess that might make it hard to fill the fuel, like clicking off by itself a lot.

An adapter to what? 1/8" NPT? Yes, those are very common. McMaster.com sells them. Also even places like Pepboys will have them, though usually you have to buy an assortment which is near the gauges aisle. Grainger and MSC probably carry them too. SummitRacing and Jegs probably have them though might have to get the assortment. What I didn't check was to see if Amazon/SmallParts.com has them, I would think they do.

I see it was already mentioned...many years back when people were saying that Mobil1 synthetic gear oil ate up the syncros in their soob's manual trans. I guess it had a lot of sulfur in it, and it was a little too much for the yellow metal syncros to handle.

Well....replaced the starter with a Subaru reman today. Cleaned up the grounds. Replaced the timing belt since I already had it torn apart and the one in there is 5 years old and this one has 60k /60 mo. intervals. Also replaced cam position sensor since its original and now I will have a (used) spare. Got everything hooked up, hit the key, and what do I get? A good sounding click from the solenoid, but no cranking! So I let off the key for a second, hit it again, and then she fires up. Crank speed seems faster than it was before, seems nice and strong. Restarted half a dozen times or so and it seems to be good, so far. Hopefully the problem stays away. Though I do have to say....putting in the genuine reman and just getting a click on the first key turn does not really instill confidence.

Yes, thread is 1/8" BSPT - British Standard Pipe, tapered thread. NPT will start to thread in but it is different threads per inch and does not fit correctly.

Ok thanks! I may give it a go today if I have time. I would have been tempted to use a heat gun there I am thinking but I will heed the caution!

The coolant is normally sold by the gallon, but I've seen some dealers price it by the quart. I can't remember if it is premixed, I don't think so. The vacuum is not for draining - it is for the refilling. It evacuates basically all air from the cooling system, then lets the coolant get sucked in. This method is fine. The flushing machines are a problem because they can recirculate traces of old coolant from other vehicles, which may be contaminated with various cooling system metals not present in Subaru, and traces of incompatible coolants. I would still go with the R/O even if you have 'soft' tap water. Why not, you need what, a gallon or so of it at the most?

Sometimes the value they list in the owners manual is for a complete drain, i.e. removing the block drains or changing the water pump. Sometimes you will get a bit less out just the radiator drain. Right, do not use a flush machine, except there was one Subaru said is OK; I mentioned that in a previous post too: "Depends what you mean by coolant flush. Subaru doesn't want flushing machines to be used (except one certain type), because they might be contaminated with coolant and metals from other vehicles." If you want to be plenty conservative, then just get the Subaru coolant for it. But get the old green, not the new blue 'super coolant'. Any water added should be distilled or R/O. 'Soft' usually just means deionized (i.e. water softener). It just shouldn't be tap water normally (unless you have a water softener). It's funny how Subaru says that yet this one time they had to issue a TSB for coolant replacement in new soobs because there was too much chlorine in the coolant. whoops!

Is it due for a coolant change? If so or you don't know when it was done last, then it's probably not a bad idea. Not recommended to use Dexcool or dexclones like Prestone in there. Make sure the place you take it knows how to get the air bubble out after refilling, or uses a vacuum filler. I use a vacuum filler on all my soobs. It is pretty slick, leaving basically no air in the system after its refilled, without needing to remove any rad hoses while filling or reving the engine with the cap off, etc.

Hm yah that does not really sound good, about it being easier to compress the second time. I usually put them in the vise, then every 30 seconds to minute I just give it a slight turn, while I'm working on other stuff, so that it can take its sweet old time.

Great thanks. I didn't open the box yet but I ordered the tube and I think the plate where it mounts in the fuel door and the screws. Hopefully it is the right one, said for '96 they were different depending on Vin, maybe because of Calif. I will scrap the cover. I can't see this car lasting more than maybe another 5 years before it is so rusted it becomes unsafe. Hoping also to pop in the new timing belt since I had pulled that all apart trying to figure out that weird cranking/no start which mysteriously fixed itself.

Thanks for the tip! That does look a little tricky up under there. Mainly going to try to avoid as much as possible.

It's, well, traditionally for if you're having your car valet parked, so that you don't give the valet the headache of setting off the alarm. Sometimes I go to valet mode in times where if it goes off accidentally it would be very inconvenient or draw unwanted attention.

TSB is Technical Service Bulletin. My overflow hoses seem to stay up about 3/8" or so just by lifting them, the friction seems to keep them there. Some electrical tape wrapped around it would keep it from going down in there. Depends what you mean by coolant flush. Subaru doesn't want flushing machines to be used (except one certain type), because they might be contaminated with coolant and metals from other vehicles. And on your other engine oil thread question...just don't forget you have an engine oil lubricated timing chain and tensioners. The timing belt engines you can get away with more with the oil, but some of the H6's already had issues with the timing chain tensioners....so good oil in the right weight changed in time is important. You don't want her to overheat....ever. Often overheating will take out the water pump, and since yours is driven off the timing chain, that is a big job to get out those like 62 bolts in the timing chain cover.

Well the fuel filler pipe on '96 Legacy I think has finally gotten a hole in it. I can small fuel from the wheel well area and sometimes a little bit inside the car so I am assuming it has rusted through. The replacement doesn't look too difficult..... are there any pointers or tips? Other of course than to put the cigar aside and not have a propane camping heater running in the garage or warmth?

It helps clean it out, such as carbon buildup and stuff like that. Don't let it suck it in too fast though. It will make a lot of smoke when you do it so point the tailpipe down wind. The vacuum port selected ideally needs to able to let it distribute to all the cylinders, not just basically drain into one cylinder. Throttle body and plate can usually use a cleaning too. I like to get a good amount sucked in with the engine warm, then let it sit about 10-15 minutes for it to dissolve junk, then fire it back up again. Its not a bad idea to give an engine oil change afterwards. Seafoam has a little bit of water in it so it also helps to give it a big of a schteam cleaning.

Hi. What model and year? (Good to include in any post asking for help since advice can vary based on that info). I'd probably start with the knock sensor. If it has a code for that, it is retarding the timing to the maximum in its map. I have driven a couple soobs when that code comes on, and it really makes it hard to drive them, almost dangerous I would say. Absolutely zero power and often feels like it is going to stall out. Knock sensor code is often the knock sensor itself, but could also be wiring or other issue. Ditto on oxygen sensor codes. Your oxygen sensor code sounds like it is for the rear? Tires must match within 1/4" circumference, so there isn't a whole lot of room for existing/old tires on front or rear. People often say in this case to mix them up, one old and one new on the front, ditto on the rear but on opposite sides. That supposedly works with open diffs anyway. If it's an auto could put FWD fuse in until tire issue is addressed. Oh if you are getting tires anyway, could maybe just keep one of the old ones if you can find a spare soob wheel to use. It probably won't fit neatly in the spot for the thin spare though.