porcupine73

You can get them from many places, Summit, etc. There's a few types. I used FastCam 14mm. There was a good thread I think it was on nasioc about how to use them since there are some important things related to not overtightening them, where to use it (top or bottom) if using one bolt on the rear etc.

It might be one of the codes where it only illuminates the CEL/MIL after something like 3 successive failed tests. Before that you might be able to read the code as 'pending'. (Of course it won't go to ready until it passes the test, which yes, with plugged lines would probably never pass since it won't see the proper pressure changes in the fuel tank vapor space).

3---4 1---2 radiator It was harder to see in there than I hoped since there's some loom over the wires plus the wires are dirty/dusty. 4 definitely has a yellow with a red stripe. The other 4 wire was a darker color to be honest hard to tell because of the dirt looked like brown with a blue stripe possibly. 2 looked like green as one of the wires 1 had yellow with a red stripe for a wire (like 4 did too!) and yes brown as the other wire as you mentioned. 3 was blue with a white stripe and I didn't see the other too well.

It seems it would still run ok, maybe throwing p0420 if it isn't happy with things back there after the rear o2, though right on, I would imagine it would be loud. I know how loud my old rusty soobs seem when small holes get in the exhaust near the back.

Yes also if it has EGR check the little metal lines that run from that near the throttle body. There's a bulletin out about those possibly rusting and getting plugged and causing problems. Also near the passenger fender where the pressure sources switching solenoid and stuff is there is a small white filter, that sometimes gets plugged too.

If you get really in a jam I have a running '94 Legacy 2.2L that I could take a look at, it's just kind of cold and dark out at the moment haha.

Yes, if there are no codes, and the wires are connected, it will just flash 'slow' or long pulses. I found that out on my '94. So unhook the connector and it should b all set. Is it still having issues? What were the codes you read from the light before replacing the parts?

^ it was up a ways, 453bcb853y7612962 If the chart is right it looks like that would make it a model year 2000?

I had this diagram I think it is from around 2000, I don't know though if it's still the same position for year or what it would be now if Y was 2000.

From various posts I've seen I believe that may work, a few things to verify/check before/during would be: exhaust, single or dual port? - if different then you need the matching exhaust header. Intake manifold mates/matches up? LH cam sprocket - may need the sprocket from the '97 engine in case the reluctor teeth on the back are different. (Obviously if you do it, I would use both '93 heads, i.e. I wouldn't just replace the head that got damaged).

Does it have the original ECU? If it was replaced with a '96 or possibly '95 ECU for some reason then those may reset all the monitors every time the engine is shut off. If you have or can borrow a scanner, or have a smartphone I believe there is some inexpensive gadget and app you can get that basically makes the phone work as a code scanner. if that will show the monitor states then you can check for yourself when it is set to ready, verify that it stays at ready when restarted, check it right before you give it to deq, etc.

When you say pressurize, how do you mean, i.e. the rad hose feeling 'hard'? It's kind of subjective but I'd say the few times I've checked mine maybe above 150F coolant temp the hose feels a bit firm. If you don't think that's happening the rad cap could be suspect as Rooster mentioned. I've had trouble with the genuine radiator caps not lasting more than a couple years. A quick test is with the engine off and the lid popped on the overflow, squeeze the upper rad hose hard. If you feel the hose go soft and hear/see coolant going into the overflow then there's an issue with the cap. Sometimes cleaning it and underneath the gaskets will make it seal better, other times it just won't. The thermostat is basically relying on the return from the bypass and heater core to know when to open. That's the main flow that's going across the thermostat springy part. Also the temp gauge is a bit funny, it's made to more or less just stay in the middle if it's in the normal operating range. Only if it gets quite too hot or too cold will the needle be much outside of that. I think they made it that way so people wouldn't worry about it too much. A scangauge or similar is the way to see the real temp the ECU thinks it is seeing.

That's the hardest monitor to get set to ready. There's many conditions that have to met for the ECU to run the test, like fuel level in a certain range, temperature in a certain range, throttle position etc. There is a bulletin from Subaru somewhere with details on how to get it set. So I take it you have to get all the monitors set to pass in your area? Fortunately in my area in NY they allow up to two monitors to be not ready on soobs of that era, after ~2000 only one can be not ready.

Hm a few random thoughts: if you have a scangauge or similar device you can monitor what the ECU thinks the engine coolant temp is and see if it seems reasonable throughout operation. In cold temps idling if the heater is on high it may be rejecting enough heat that the thermostat never really has to open much, so the lower hose doesn't get warm, or, even if it does open a bit, not having much flow through the radiator, it may be cooling it down substantially so that the lower hose doesn't feel hot. In my '96 I did a few years ago hear that gurgling in the heater core, but after making sure all the air was out of the system it went away. Also obviously if it's set to any of the defrost related settings it will be trying to run the a/c also (if equipped) which may cause the fans to run or cycle.

Hm well that is an interference engine so there is a possibility one or more valves got bent a bit when the belt broke. You're right you may have gotten lucky and not bent any valves, but then again maybe not. A cylinder leakdown test would be the way to tell for sure.

That's just how they were, nice and rich and richer the colder it is. I have a '96 that's like that. Sometime back then Subaru had a bulletin out about it. They said something like they make it run nice and rich to make sure the vehicle will start and run in cold temperatures, something about it being related to the vehicle not being able to know what type of gasoline is in it so they did that to make sure it will run in the cold on gasoline that has a low vapor pressure. (i.e. normally in cold areas the winter blend fuel that starts around October/November has a higher vapor pressure than normal blend).

Hi. I assume it was ok before the timing belt change? Did the previous timing belt break? Is it giving any codes/CEL/MIL? If it was ok before the belt change, and is now acting up, the easiest things to check would be making sure any stuff on the intake i.e. tubing etc is all connected back up, though '99 2.2L I think does not have a MAF but uses a MAP instead so it might not be that. One possible test to see if it is off a tooth is a compression test. Not sure about it seeming ok after a long jaunt but probably after it's nice and warmed up it is most efficient so maybe it just isn't as noticeable.

Another thing you could do to try just as a curiosity test is when you press the brake and the interlock does not fire, reach down under the dash there and jiggle that wire/connector slightly and see if that makes it engage or chatter, which if so might just mean that wire the crimp connector damaged needs to be repaired. Of course jiggling it might also break whatever thin strand of wire is still intact under the crimp.

Ok hope it works out. If you don't want to keep it if you can tighten the spoob out and get it running you will almost always be able to get more a running driveable car say on craigslist with the known issues rather than selling as scrap. Really though mechanically the front axles aren't too hard to change, brakes aren't too hard to repair, speed sensor can be replaced, obviously any used car getting up near 20 years old is going to have some issues, and brakes especially. On the plus side, you have a '90s soob with a 2.2L engine - a very good vintage which often will keep on ticking for many years with a bit of care. I don't know, scrapping it and then buying a different used car with other unknown issues is kind of a roll of the dice in my book unless you have it checked over first or know everything to look at to minimize chances of getting a lemon.

If you want to replace the key, I don't think you'll be able to replace it without removing the crank sprocket/gear, because the key extends underneath that gear as well (the same key is under both the crank gear and pulley). This thread might be helpful to you: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/101600-forester-99-crankshaftpulleykeyway-problem/

A cat I think might know whether just tightening the bolt would work would be grossgary. If everything else seems good with the vehicle it's probably worth trying to fix, as in / if you sell it as is you won't get as much, and if you would have to buy some other vehicle with unknown other issues then it could be a worse situation. One question is - why did the key shear? Did something seize up, or did the crank pulley bolt loosen (common if it wasn't tightened enough after a timing belt job - but this generally damages the keyway too), or did the crank pulley rubber part start to separate (though I don't think that usually shears the key).

She might be on her last legs. Starting batteries don't like to go dead to begin with and they like it much less the older they get. Right it would likely take a lot longer than 20 minutes to fully charge. Rough calculations are say it's a 40 amp-hour battery, that means it would take at least 4 hours at a 10 amp charge rate. I say at least because there's other factors like efficiency/battery getting hot from charging and things like that.

Looks like that key is sheared. Ideally yes you'd replace the key but I think that requires removing the crank sprocket that you can see in the pic, which requires removing the timing belt, so that could get involved quickly. I believe someone in another thread said you can just put the new crank pulley ('harmonic balancer') and tighten the bolt really good and it should be fine. It looks like the keyway itself isn't damaged (though from a pic it's hard to tell) so that's good. If the crank bolt loosened up sometimes that hogs out the keyway which makes for a harder repair.

Ah ok, I've never swapped a trans. Maybe you already did this, did you try just putting a fuse in the FWD holder? It doesn't really provide power to anything, it's actually a ground input to the TCU, then the TCU controls the duty c transfer clutch solenoid. (It doesn't actually energize the solenoids completely, it's something like a 50Hz square wave varying from 5% to 95% duty cycle). The relaxing or unbinding when turning it off is probably from loss of line pressure? Sounds like you probably need some wiring diagrams to compare possibly. Not sure if the postal had anything special about it in this regard.

First you need to compare the ratio (3.9, 4.11 etc) of your differential to that of the transmission you put in. If they're not the same then it would cause what you describe. There is a way to tell from the transmission serial numbers (though I don't know what it is). Whatever happened where it is now stuck in 2nd gear sounds like 'limp mode'.