porcupine73

Maybe it is something other than misfire. I didn't know it was possible for it to misfire repeatedly like that and not throw code(s) P030x.

Right, you loosen the locknut, then turn the adjusting screw to increase or decrease the clearance as necessary. You need a good set of feeler gauges to do this job. It takes a little bit of knowing the 'feel' if you will of feeler gauges, as to how they slide into the gap and when it is' just right'.

NGK are what many people seem to use and recommend for Subaru's.

I'm just going to ask because I didn't see it specifically stated....... how do you know it is misfiring? Is the CEL/MIL flashing? What cylinder(s) does it say are misfiring?

The prices might have gone up in the last 5-6 years. Though for many years/models the genuine camshaft position sensor is around $59 and the crankshaft sensor $89 (though both are more for certain years/models). Always check dealers selling parts online; I have seen some parts where the genuine part costs less than the aftermarket part.

That sounds about like where I notice my leak too. I just checked, and son of a gun if the passenger seat isn't wet too. I think that has been leaking just like the drivers side except I never noticed it.

You could look for the Subaru service manual for that model&year and see what troubleshooting procedure it has for the code you are getting. The Subaru procedures are pretty thorough; has you check to make sure connectors and wiring is good, goes through pretty much all possible causes of the problem. Usually the very last step if everything else checks out is to replace a part.

Hope that patches it up! Two other common causes of EGR issues on that era are those little metal tubes, they get rust buildup and blocks the flow, and there is a little inline 'filter' heading over to the 'pressure sources switching solenoid' PSS and that likes to get plugged up too. Rusty metal tubes running under throttle cable Plugged up filter

Mwelll...let me see, I can probably attach it: Hm let me try this again, it says 'bad filename', I didn't really see what was so bad about it myself.... http://porcupine73.com/endwrench/4EAT FWD and AWD Brake Band Adjustment 4EATFWD.pdf The endwrench article tells you how to do it, but not what way to adjust it. Make sure to read a procedure first, because if you turn it too much, the band can fall off the drum, and as they said in Ghostbusters, 'that would be bad, very bad'.

My '94 Legacy does that, but I think only on the driver's side (of course). It drips in around the top of the door. Sometimes if it is raining hard enough I can see the drips. I usually put a garbage bag on the seat and then remove it before I take off. But when I forget, well that is embarassing to have walk into work with the back of your pants all wet, because no one ever believes your car seat was wet.

I think Subaru mentioned using an analog meter set to a fairly low voltage AC range to check the output of the crank and cam position sensors while cranking the engine. You can't read the waveform per se but you can see if you are getting the 'heartbeat'. It's not super uncommon for soobs of that era for the cam position sensor to go faulty. Walking into a dealership of course to get the part means you will pay top dollar for it at most dealers. I think P0341 was what my '96 thew when it died at a stop light one time. Then a little while later it would not even start and kept dumping that code, and it was fine after I replaced the sensor (was just gamling that it was the sensor that was bad).

Hm, that almost sounds like a band adjustment to me... There was an endwrench article for the early 90's 4eats on how to do this, since it is a little tricky to access the adjustment nuts.

There aren't any WaWa stations in my area to be able to compare..... But I did find the 'no ethanol' gasoline at one of the stations listed on pure-gas.org's chart! I had stopped at this station before but didn't notice it. Now they have blue labels on the 87 and 89 octanes, saying '10% ethanol', and a black label on the 91 octaine that says 'no ethanol'. I wonder what oxygenate they are using then, since I am pretty sure it is required in NY, and MTBE can't be used in NY. This will be great for my old snow blowers, tractors, and stuff like that which were never intended to use any ethanol. So I filled the soob with the 'no ethanol' version, and I'll be darned if it didn't just about peel the tires right off the rims pulling out of the station. Ok so it wasn't that dramatic

You might be able to carry the brake fluid as an 'emergency' use, i.e. if it starts acting up quite a bit. If you use the brake fluid, you may want to change the title of the thread from 'a little worried about this trans' to 'a lot worried'. Keep your foot out of it as much as possible. If you feel slipping, let up on the throttle or possibly try a different gear to get around it.

Can you see if it is giving pulses on your analog meter to show it is actually working properly? It might read in spec impedance wise but not be outputting a nice waveform. It seems someone had mentioned it can still start with the cam position sensor faulty, that it can interpret enough from the crank position sensor, but it has to play around to figure out if the cylinder is on the intake stroke or the power stroke. On the flip side, the soobs, esp of that era, will run very rich when it is cold out, at least until they warm up. Subaru had said something like they did that to help make sure it would start even with gasoline that had a low vapor pressure at low temps (probably i.e. not winter blend gasoline). Your waveforms might look different, esp for the cam position sensor, as they played around with the divots on the back of the cam sprocket between some years/models.

Glad you got it out! From your description, it sounds like you gave it a 'root canal' Yes there is not much clearance between the tip of the sensor and the 'marks' on the crank sprocket. It looks like if one of the marks isn't directly below the sensor when working on it, there is a little more clearance there.

Once an AT is slipping, it's days are very numbered. Slipping tears up what, at that mileage, little friction material remains. Even if everything else in the AT is working fine, eventually the friction materials wear out, and that may be what is happening at that mileage. Some used car places will add brake fluid to the ATF in this case to give it a little more life until they can sell the car.

I haven't done it but I don't think it's overly difficult. You have to take the valve covers, timing belt, and cam sprockets off of course. So if replacing the timing belt that can be a good time to do it, and valve cover gaskets.

I did it after I replaced the timing belt. Yes it is pretty easy, valve covers come off, then with the little timing belt cover piece removed from the piece behind the coolant overflow tank, you can see the arrows on the cam sprocket. At noon, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock corresponds to different piston positions, I forget exactly which is what when, but basically at each position, whichever valves have a little play in them means they are relaxed and are fair game for the clearance check. Then after adjusting you are supoosed to make a couple revolutions on the engine and recheck. Just turn the crank pulley bolt with a 22mm socket and long ratchet. Just don't forget to take it off before starting!!!!!!!!

Yes if it resists at all, it needs good penetrating oil and lots of patience, which unfortunately is hard to find when it is making the vehicle not run. Even a little corrosion in that hole makes it just about impossible to get it out. Usually when doing the timing belt, I remove that sensor and put a light coating of antisieze on it so that it stands a better chance of coming out later if necessary. I suppose absolutely worst case would be removing the oil pump to drive out the sensor such as with a brass drift.

Oil on the spark plugs on that engine is the spark plug tube seals. You do have to remove the valve covers to get at them. How close are you to needing a timing belt replacement? I believe that engine has the set screw type valve clearance adjustment, and the valve covers have to come off to do that anyway. I think '99 Forester had the phase II 2.5L SOHC?

I don't really know the details of bolting on a turbo to the n/a engine; the forum with that description on nasioc has people who do that regularly. For someone mechanically experienced it probably wouldn't be too big a deal to get it to work, but really if you want a turbo Subaru, it's going to be far easier and possibly even cheaper to simply buy a Subaru with a turbo in it, though they are quite a bit more rare than the n/a versions.

I've gotten genuine Subaru O2 sensors that say Bosch on them.

People have done it both ways. Just adding a turbo (and ancillary parts uppipe, downpipe etc) has been done; generally people will say you can go up to 8 psig boost on the stock n/a engine. Because the turbo engine is not simply the n/a engine with a turbo on it; there are sometimes other differences internally such as oil misted piston skirts, etc.