porcupine73

It will not 'suck in' the clean fluid out of a bucket though. That return line goes to the pan, not directly to the pump suction. Do not let the level get so low the pump sucks air! For 'cheapy' fluids, look for the bulk gallon jugs such as at Advance Auto or similar places. Usually they will say for applications formerly calling for Dexron III or something like that. I would not use Dexron VI, it is thinner than the good 'ol fluid.

timing belt, cam seals, cam cap o-ring, discharge o-ring for oil pump, sealant for oil pump, crank seal, water pump, water pump gasket, thermostat, thermostat gasket, optionally radiator hoses, optionally a few replacement shouldered and regular bolts for the timing belt covers in case any snap or are rusty, accessory drive belts, idlers (at the minimum the geared/toothed one), tensioner and idler might as well do the valve clearance check and adjust, valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals while in there. And that's about it. For pricing.....some people are using the eBay importexperts timing belt kits, they are pretty cost effective, much moreso than using genuine parts as the idlers are expensive. Some people get this kit but get a genuine belt.

Hm I wonder if it has any option for training it like other speech recognition software. Nice soob btw! I may own one of those in about 15 years

The image is a little too small/low res to be able to read the numbers. I had a couple oil analysis done but that was back around '05/'06: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=17929&Number=251148#Post251148

I don't really like rubberized; maybe it was just the brand I used. It started to develop 'pockets' where it was not attached to the metal anymore. That did not seem ideal. The kind I used didn't seem to stick well unless the surface was clean or at least didn't have too much oil/grease on it.

That's true. I had both front springs on my '96 and '94 break. They both had that recall I believe. There are bulletins for various years/models for corrosion where they will apply some stuff to help it not rust as fast. My '96 had the tow hook recall, but it still has its tow hooks! Fortunately the previous owner didn't see fit to have it castrated. The sensors Miles mentioned do seem to need replacement often. My '96 has had all those, knock sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, and cam position sensor. Fortunately none of those are expensive or difficult.

Yes let us see the pics! Powdercoating means the part has to be removed, cleaned, and baked in an oven. Some people use truck bed liner like Rhino liner as an undercoating, the stuff is pretty tough.

Glad you got it off! What was wrong with the simple hoses and hose barbs/nipples they used to use? Those things were dead easy to work on without any special tools. Did they have too many failures or something? These 'fancy' connectors seem like they would cost more during manufacture.

If you have a 2.2L I would definitely fix it. If it's the 2.5L and you didn't have the head gaskets done ever (unlikely) then I would consider it before having the water pump done. Especially if it did overheat and now the water pump leaks. Ideally, the water pump should have been replaced when the timing belt was replaced. Many of those items you listed such as tires, battery, etc., are really all maintenance items moreso than repair. You have to figure just about any used car is going to require some amount of repairs. Yes you'll hear people tell you about how their xyz car ran 200,000 with no repairs, but that is not the norm/average experience.

I really like the Eastwood undercoating. It is and oily waxy stuff that seems to really coat well, and doesn't flake off like the 'rubberized' stuff eventually does. Sometimes they have bogo offers with free shipping on that product. I also use Amsoil heavy duty metal protector as an undercoat; it works OK, but it doesn't seem to stay on very long, like even one season.

Sounds good. Some oil blenders like to aim for the low end of the viscosity range for a grade for better fuel economy, since that is heavily related to the HT/HS (a lower HT/HS having better fuel economy) it may shear back after running it for a while.

Those don't seem to have a ton of problems. edit....ok well I did think of a couple things....but mainly due to salty roads and the resulting rust....rusty rear brake lines, rear crossmember rusting out, fuel filler pipe rusting out, rear latch/hatch rusting out.

The brake grease is made to take heat better and stay fluid. Regular lithium grease probably cooks out eventually and hardens up.

Yes it's down in there a little bit I would imagine yes, the ECU uses it for several reasons, one as an input to controlling the fans, also it is used in fuel metering calculations.

I had mine go bad on '96 Legacy. It did end up giving a code, something like temperature insufficient for closed loop operation. This is one of those areas where the Haynes manual is DEAD wrong. It says to wrap teflon tape around the sensor threads. But that is incorrect. This sensor has straight, not tapered threads, and uses a sealing washer.

On the opposite side of the brake booster hose you could use the fuel pressure regulator hose. Usually though I use a spray bottle and mist it into the intake with the throttle open a little bit, that way it gets distributed everywhere. Sometimes depending on what hose you pick it might really only make it to one cylinder. And right don't let it suck it in too fast, I don't know it would suck enough to hydrolock it but I woudln't want to find out. I pinch the hose with my fingers to modulate the flow.

Only cars model year '96 and newer have to meet ODBII requirements because that is the first year it was mandated in the U.S. If you happen to find a 1996 model year soob, it is exempt from needing to have the readiness monitors set, because it resets them every time the ignition is turned off. That is convenient if you have a CEL on, because if you can clear the CEL and it stays off when you restart the engine, you can still pass the inspection.

There's lots of Subaru dealers who sell parts online, so that could be a route. I think the part # you want may be 31337AA120.

When you say they 'stripped', do you mean the threads are just messed up? Or do you mean they snapped off? Hm either way it is odd that it would be so many of them. If the threads are just messed up, a thread chaser or die can usually clean them up pretty well. Not sure what the later models are using but for a long time they were M12 at 1.25mm thread spacing.

I believe it needs the light connected as that makes sure the field is magnetized in the alt, 'tickling' it as that other thread said. It may work for a while or intermittently without that light, but eventually it may lose the bit of magnetism in the field and then won't work.

Son of a gun. You're right I just tried it again and it didn't work but I'm on a different computer now. I will check my other computer again tomorrow. What may have happened is it has DNS caching on it so it might be using an old IP address for the site. But either way if it is working tomorrow I will be downloading every PDF I can find on there!

You should run for Congress! The slow to engage to drive is a problem with a seal ring on one of the drums. Most likely the TransX makes this ring swell somehow to give a better seal. TransX used to offer their own brand ATF in addition to just the additive itself; not sure if they still do that. Here's some links to some quality synthetic ATF's, though these particular ones are kind of obscure: http://www.schaefferoil.com/transmission-fluid.html http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/automatic-transmission-fluid/

The genuine filter does have a bypass valve; it just has some metal screen over it so that at least large chunks can still not get through. Normal engine oil filters do not have this metal screening. Do you get any delayed engaging into drive after a cold night? The early 4EAT phase II's are known for that. For quality synthetics, Red Line and Amsoil are quite popular. Mobil1 synthetic ATF is a popular retail choice. Neo Synthetics makes some nice products, as does Schaeffer Oil, but both those are a little more obscure and harder to find. I would stay away from the Dexron VI and Toyota WS style ATF's; they are quite a bit thinner than the good 'ol Dexron III that ear soob uses.

Hm don't know for sure any differences in height. You probably already found this at least for part # reference. If no one has specifics, you could look up the KYB part #'s in their online catalog, then maybe e-mail them asking if they have any drawings you could look at. It's kind of a long shot but wouldn't take long to at least ask.

Before using the spacers, measure from top of your strut mount nuts to the end of the studs to see how thick a spacer you could put in before having to put in different studs. I think they usually stick through about 1/2" extra but definitely not an entire inch. I used to have a pretty saggy front, but I started eating better and exercising and it has gotten much better in the last couple years.