porcupine73

The fans operate according to a control chart, something like this one though it isn't for your specific year.....

Did some of the early 90's eras have a solenoid valve on the throttle body that it would open to let in extra air when the a/c kicked on or something like that?

I'm going to try to patch it up tonight. Else it's going to cost me more in ATF than gasoline to drive this thing haha. I think the hose I have is 13/32" from Permacool. I think they made it that size to accommodate both 5/16" and 3/8" applications.

Try a free proxy, or maybe launch a Windows instance over at Amazon EC2 for like 3 cents an hour and see if that lets you in, then you can tell if it is your ip.

Hm thanks for the info, I hadn't thought about that. What would I use, 3/8" or so steel line with a single flare at the end or something like that? New ones look to be about $44, maybe I should use up some Subaru bucks. http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=11587

Drats, I thought I had everything set on my '96 Legacy, then I figured I better check the ATF. It was wayyyyy low. So I started adding, and it took 2.5 quarts to get back to the right point. I'm surprised it had no shifting difference even on pretty steep hills being that it was that low. Then looking under the vehicle, I saw a slow drip of ATF. Then I noticed it was coming from the metal ATF pipes under the battery. Hopefully it can be a quick repair with some transmission hose and clamps. I did it on my '94 a couple years back but the pipes under where the heater core hoses are kind of restricted access.

Hm, maybe they restricted IP blocks from some countries.

To narrow it down more, you could maybe rig up some sort of text jig that plugs into the cigarette lighter to power the fuel pump directly. That would bypass the relay and its controls. The cigarette outlet I think is hot in acc and run.....but not sure about start. There were some posts in the past where people found the transistor on the ECU that drives the relay had gone flaky, so they replaced the transistor, but I think then it just doesn't work at all, not intermittently. What made you think there was something wrong with the fuel pump to begin with?

The OP probably figured it out by now, but often this is one or more of the short lengths of fuel hose on the runners underneath the intake manifold. It usually happens after a cold night. Subaru originally issued a bulletin about it, but for the WRX or STI only I believe, though it seems to happen on all the models from those eras.

I just like the sequence control because I think it helps get out old fluid that might be in the unit. No!!!!!!!!!!! Ok it didn't work out perfectly after all. It wasn't related to the bleeding, but I spotted a brake fluid leak coming from above the tank in the rear. I had this happen on my '96 so I"m replacing both rear line sections from underneath the seat to the brake hoses. This vehicle has been down for over a year. I finally got back at it and finished up the timing belt, struts and springs, and a bunch of other stuff. Then the battery went bad. Now I was just putting it down off the jack stands and I swear it just started leaking right then!!!!!!!!! argh..... oh well hopefully it won't take too long.

Thanks for the help. I went through and bleed everything once, then put the ABS through sequence control a couple times, and bled again, it seems to be good.

Hello. Is this an MT or an AT? When you say it won't start, do you mean it won't crank at all? Or it will crank like whir whir whir but won't start? If the brake pedal is going all the way to the floor, there might be air in the system or a leak in the master cylinder. Sometimes if the brake booster is faulty and is leaking air into the intake manifold it could cause hard starting I would imagine, and might be easier starting if the vacuum leak goes away when the pedal is pressed really hard.

I would at least make sure the nuts on the fusible link are tight, and the contacts are clean. If the fusible link itself gets too hot, it will just open, that's how it works - but melting the link if too much current passes through it over a given period of time. But if the contacts are dirty, that could easily make it get hot, since there is a fair amount of current passing through there with the vehicle in operation, especially with lots of accessories running such as lights, defroster, heater, etc. The lights being out in the climate control, etc., might not have anything to do with the alt going bad. Those bulbs just burn out frequently.

Right at startup it isn't going to make any difference since the coolant is at ambient anyway. The thing with the IACV and throttle is that it is air passing through an orifice, so there is a temperature drop associated with it. So it would probably be most likely to ice up in high humidity with the temperatures just above freezing. After the vehicle is up to operating temperature there might be enough heat coming off the engine to keep it uniced. I don't know if it matters a little ice, I wonder if there were ice on the throttle butterfly and it came off suddenly if it could get stuck under an intake valve. I mean it would melt fast but could be enough time for the piston to hit it in the interference engines?

The IACV and TB can start to ice up under the right conditions, so that's why coolant passes through them. I picked up one of those hoses from Subaru dealer online, it was about $10 for the return one.

I've got a '94 Legacy with the Nippon ABS-2E system. What's the right brake bleeding order for this setup? In an Endwrench article, it says: I think that makes sense since this ABS has a combined channel for the the rear brakes. But it's a different order than I've seen in other Subaru publications, which is: 1. Right front brake 2. Left rear brake 3. Left front brake 4. Right rear brake Which should I use? Maybe I"m overthinking it and it doesn't really matter. There is no air in the system that I can tell; I just want to change out the fluid.

The dexcool seems to really have problems if any air is in contact with the coolant. There's lots of stories of it sludging up real nice. In an old endwrench article, Subaru specifically said not to use OAT coolants (i.e. Dexcool or dexcool clones) in Subaru engines. But then Subaru did come out with that 'super coolant', which is almost certainly an OAT based on its long life claims. But you can't tell for sure since they pulled that 'trade secret' trick on the label. The super coolant was very much likely done more to meet consumer demand for lower maintenance needs on a vehicle, not because it is actually better than the old coolant. G-05 is a formulation by BASF and licensed to various coolant producers such as Zerex. It's a hybrid OAT / HOAT, supposedly good for aluminum engines and offering benefits of both OAT and traditional silicate based coolants. Zerex did come up with an 'Asian' formula a couple years back.

That doesn't look like it fits. I bought a seal for my 2000 Outback, not sure if it would be the same exact seal as yours, this is the part I was sent in the pic below. Maybe they're different for MT vs AT?

Do they have different controls? I think the one with the canister in the rear is the 'enhanced evap' maybe with one or more additional solenoids?

I think somewhere someone showed some of the Nissan ATF's meet the J specs. I think the J might be for Jatco. A lot of vehicles are using Jatco transmissions these days.

Some people used a fused jumper wire to go from the battery + terminal to the solenoid on the starter. If it cranks then, you know the battery, starter, all that stuff is good, and it is definitely something in the NSS or safety circuit, probably the switch.

What code or codes did you get read? I don't think that year has an IACV, I think it has the drive by wire throttle where the ECU modulates the throttle for idle. I think there were quite a number of ECU reflashes for those years so it might need an update and reboot.

Yes I think group 35 is the usual Subaru battery, for the auto trans vehicles anyway. Sometimes the MT's have a smaller or lower rated battery. You really can't fit too much of a different size in there, at least not larger, because it seems often then the battery terminals are in different spots or reverse of the group 35 size. Unless you want to have to mess around with lengthening the cables, etc. The AGM batteries such as Optima and Odyssey often have high amperage ratings and some are deep cycle capable, but some people say the lead plates are much closer together and more likely to develop a short in a cell in the future.

If you are referring specifically to the intake and exhaust valves, you don't have to worry about those hitting each other in the sohc. They could hit the pistons though potentially. It is possible that the 1996 Subaru 2.5L dohc may have been a non-interference Subaru engine piston to valve.

Hm...wasn't there a TSB about radio reception? But it might have had something to do with when the rear defroster was on. Some of the radios have the 'local' and 'DX' settings for FM but I forget the details. And....congratulations on your new DD, it sounds nice!