porcupine73

If you cut the ATF hoses, you could just go hose back to the pipes near the starter. I've had the section of ATF pipe that goes underneath/near the battery rust out on a couple of my soobs and dump a lot of precious ATF onto the ground, so I try to pay attention to that area. I believe I used 3/8" i.d. hose for that, which seemed to be a little bit bigger than the likely metric size that is stock, but trying to fit 5/16" id hose onto the radiator nipples was very difficult.

On one I snapped the ABS wire bolt, but it didn't really matter since I just used a new bolt on the new strut. Some new struts don't have the tab for the ABS wire mounting so people often use zip ties then. Sometimes on the front, the struts are already notched or mount differently so the brake line doesn't have to get disconnected or the mounting point notched. The rears almost always seem to need one of those two options though.

Hm, I haven't worked on a 2.5L dohc from that era, but all my soobs, the radiator fans are bolted to the radiator. So you can pull the fans and radiator as a unit, but they still have to come off and get mounted to the new one. Usually it is just the two bolts that fasten the two radiator mounts at the top. The radiator has little pegs with rubber booties that sit into some metal underneath. One of the harder parts can be getting the ATF cooler lines off. Those hoses seem to really like to get stuck on there good.

I usually just take a dremel and notch out the brake support on the struts so the brake line doesn't have to be disconnected. With the NY salty winters it's far more likely to bork up the line and fitting trying to unhook it. Then I drill a small hole into the tab, and then use stainless steel safety wire to secure the brake line to the strut. I've done that numerous times and it seems to work well and still support the brake line.

Yes definitely check if the green connectors somehow got connected. They should not be plugged into each other for normal driving! They have tempted many a Subaru owner to say 'self, those green connectors look like they should be plugged in, they must have come unplugged somehow, so I will simply plug them back in.' And then all kinds of weirdness starts.

That cam is really picky. Sometimes I use clothes pins to help get things lined up properly. (though that is from a 2.2, not a 2.5 like yours)

Hm, well that is a really weird result, but glad it fixed it for you!

Maybe an air drill would be safer than electric? considering the and all. But I suppose the drilling could still make sparks.

Wow that is beautiful. Maybe the new screws are a different size and/or thread pitch than the originals, or maybe they just figure they might be rusted out so you get new ones with it. I haven't done this job yet, but in general for hoses I use grooved channel locks to grab the hose and twist it clockwise and counter clockwise until its death grip on what it is hooked to is loosened. Then usually they will pull off. Of course care is needed because it can damage the hose.

There is the engine coolant temp sensor and sensor for the gauge, but those are on the right side sort of below the idle air control valve (IACV). There are a couple coolant hoses under there. I think one goes into the IACV and then it travels into the throttle body and then from another hose to the coolant return. If those are ruptured maybe it is leaking there.

If it's fastened down, this should work: Image from my archives October 2007.

I have the hard copy I bought off eBay for my 00 obw, but usually I just print out what I need from alldatadiy, since it is the same information anyway. I always feel bad getting the printed manual all oily and dirty, plus it won't stay open to the page you want anyway. Whereas it is actually quicker to find it and print it out, then just print it again if needed after spilling two quarts of ATF on it.

It's probably not ideal to drive the duty c continuously like that. There used to be an endwrench document I believe that indicated the TCU controlled the solenoids from 5% to 95% duty cycle at around 50 Hz. So none were ever continuously energized (100% duty cycle).

Yes Subaru techinfo does have the CD's. They seem to be around $200 depending on the model. Or subscription for periods of 72 hours or so, some people do that and then download as much as they can during that time (believe it has hourly limits on downloads).

Is that an auto trans or a manual trans? Either way it sounds like it could be what is commonly called 'torque bind'. Are all the tires the same make/model/treadwear?

Using alldatadiy here. I usually use it along with the Haynes. Sometimes Haynes has a shortcut or more practical way, especially when it comes to 'special tools', but other times it is completely incorrect or missing information.

Do you mean it seems like it is binding or feeling as if the brakes are applied when making turns?

I think you will find working on the Subaru to be pretty straightforward. It actually seems like they designed the layout with serviceability in mind (to a degree), unlike many other makes.

It is probably the one without the sensor fittings. Some makes put sensors in the radiator, but Subaru has generally put the ECTS and temp gauge sensors sort of under the intake manifold. Obviously if you have an auto trans you need the radiator with the in-tank ATF cooler. Sometimes the aftermarket ones are more of a 'general' fit that might not quite match exactly what is in there now, such as with regard to getting the fans to mount properly, etc.

Subaru drivers are fiercely loyal. I think Brucey posts more over at Subaruoutback dot org though. For my '00 Outback, I think the new genuine bar was a bit over $100. carpart.com is probably a good resource for used ones.

They sometimes get a bit of corrosion inside the tube if they aren't taken out much. I just keep twisting it while pulling on it and usually it will free up. If you can get some Kroil down in there that can help too. Then I put some silicone or other grease on the plastic part to keep it freed up. Once you get it out, it might be very loose though, since the o-ring often shrinks and cracks with age. I usually replace that to help it stay seated.

It seems I recall seeing a TSB for that bushing, saying that small amount of grease leaking was not an issue for concern on that year. But that was some years back I think I read that and it has gotten fuzzy.

One thing is for sure, that is really poor compression! Was that with the throttle wide open?

If they won't give it back you could always dispute the charge with the credit card company. I've had to do that a few times with different places and the credit card generally seems to be on the side of the consumer. I think because a consumer could cancel the card if they don't like it and get one somewhere else, but a business, well they don't have as many choices. Places usually hate when you dispute a charge, because they get charged like $25 or maybe even more now as a fee for the credit card bank investigation.

Right, I just mean I usually count the turns as a way of getting it to a starting point. I compare the old and new parts. I have noticed the new Subaru genuine tie rod ends are a little different than the originals on the vehicles, but probably they have changed parts vendors a few times in the last 10-15 years. Then I use the strings method to check it when I'm done.