porcupine73

Ok let's see, I found scrawled on a box near the springs pink=30 green=40 So I'm assuming the one with the pink paint identification is 20331AA030 and the one with the green mark is 20331AA040

What I did was put the spring punch tool inside a 3/8" deep socket, then used a 3/8" socket extensions to make the tool longer. Then you can drive it out from above or below.

Alright let's see originally they were 20331AA020 front right 20331AA030 front left Now to figure out which of those is which with the pink/green.....

Thanks for the info. I'll also see if I can find the box from these springs. I got them like four years ago and I could swear at the time they had a different part # for left and right on the front, but now it seems they list the same part #. If there is a difference it would have to be the rate, because the springs look identical. It seems I remember seeing a note somewhere about the pink and green paint dots but I can't remember where it was or what it said....hm maybe I am getting old!

Hi, I have these two genuine front coil springs for a 1996 Legacy. They seem to be the same style, but they have different paint dabs on them. How do I know which one is the left and which one is the right? From a post on legacygt I think it has to do with the spring rates.

I will just do the camber on a level surface with a level, machinist's ruler, and the arc tangent method. Though generally I just aim for zero camber since that's easier, when the level reads level she's zerod (or crose enough anywya). I've done this on the other soobs and it works pretty well and doesn't relaly take any longer than waiting at an alignment shop. Even if I marked the position it would be different on the new strut anyway since it will be sitting higher. I have some left over fastcam bolts in 14mm too in case I need them, probably will need them for the rear. Might need one in the front if the factory bolt doesn't give enough adjustment.

Some updates...well she's getting some much needed TLC. I haven't changed the engine oil, filter, or coolant in these 3-1/2 years. It wasn't driven much, a few thousand miles maybe, but the oil still should have been changed. Outer boots ripped on both front axles, so she's getting MWE's. Getting '96 Outback GR-2 struts for a little winter snow lift. Did some rust proofing/coating of really bad areas underneath. She's getting a timing belt, all new idlers, cam seals, water pump, reseal oil pump, replace valve cover gaskets. Putting in new oil pressure switch; it's leaking through the switch. Will also be adding a bypass oil filter I had extra laying around. She needs a new a/c condenser. The PO smashed the front end up and it ruptured the condenser. I bought a condenser off someone on this board about three years ago, but he sent me a Calsonic condenser and the fittings don't match up to what I have (Zexel). So I'll have to look around. The parts stores want $200 so that's not happening, but I'll post in the parts wanted section.

Well it's been 3-1/2 years and I'm finally getting around to trying this project. I picked up new GR-2's for a '96 Outback. I new genuine springs from a '96 Legacy wagon that I am using. And reusing all the other bits, except new KYB bumpers and bellows for the front. So I will know soon whether or not this works!

Drive the pin out from the non-fluted side of the axle, and drive it in the fluted side. I see why I messed up the /32 thing last time; my pin punch is 7/32" for this job. (Just replacing two axles on my '94 this weekend actually). The axle should slide right off the diff axle stub and out of the hub. If either doesn't it could be a bit of rust in there, then sometimes penetrating oil such as Kroil will help.

Whoops posted in wrong thread.

Maybe something is messed up with your TCU or ECU then if the wiring is all ok for the torque cut signal. If the TCU were faulty that would also explain (but not prove) why it's doing the same thing with a completely different transmission installed.

If you look around on eBay you'll find vendors selling all four as a set usually including free shipping. That's why you kind of want to look for, all four as a set, since that is generally the best price. My last set I got from Summit Racing; the price was a little higher but I was getting some other things there anyway and I like Summit so I ordered from them.

Thank you for the help. Sorry I should've included all the details, it's a '94 Legacy 2.2L auto trans. I did like you said and just put it back in. I had to tap it back in a bit with a piece of wood to get it to seat, but then it kind of locked in just like the other side. Somehow I got myself turned around and drove out the other spring pin. That would explain why when I turned the wheel a bit to adjust the location of the spring pin hole it didn't seem like it was moving at all....because it was the other side! So I was like oh man she must be rusted onto the stub. Well let's just give her a tug and maybe she'll come loose. One tug, nope that didn't do it. Let's tug a little harder. Nope not quite. Ok third tug, the third time is always the charm they say. Yep then she let loose all right. Fortunately it wasn't a big deal.

Hi, the axle stub shaft pulled out of the differential while changing the axle. Can I just stick the shaft back into the diff? It looks like the clip is still on the end of the stub shaft (see pics). Or should I drain the gear oil to see if there is a clip that fell in? Thank you. The problem was I drove out the spring pin on the wrong axle. Then I was tugging at the axle and when she gave way I thought great, it's coming loose. Then I noticed that big piece of metal that I'm not used to seeing on the end of the axle. And that the axle I just pulled still had the spring pin in it. Oh well, the other axle boot is ripped anyway so it needs pulling too.

If I had a jack stand and the original pantograph jack, I would use the pantograph jack in the designated location (usually there are two notches in the weld lip under there where it is reinforced to put the jack, then jack it up there, then put the jackstand as close as possible to that point, lower the pantograph jack, then move the pantograph jack to the rear.

Glad it's working. Do you think maybe the throttle was misadjusted so it wasn't completely closed at idle?

To me that list all happening together indicates likely a corrosion or wiring/harness issue. Especially the torque control cut signal circuit low input, that is just a wire from the TCU to the ECU so the TCU can tell the ECU it is about to shift, then the ECU retards timing momentarily to reduce torque during the shift. That's probably the one I would track down the wiring first. And if that wire and connections are good, the problem may in the TCU or possibly ECU itself.

Hi Josh welcome to the board and congrats on your soob! Not sure about the noise you are hearing, but the sloppy shifter at that age and mileage she needs a new set of shifter bushings. They wear out and dry rot with age. Replacing them is a little challenging but doable, and makes the shfiter nice and tight again.

I think that's fine for a Subaru. Most are rated for 1000 lbs without even trailer brakes. With brakes most are rated 2000 lbs or more (in the US anyway). http://www.cars101.com would tell you all the ratings. If they're towing it a lot, yes an H6 Outback let's say should be plenty adequate. Or if they are looking new, the 3.6L Tribeca should haul that without any problems.

Hello and welcome to the board. Sounds like you might need the modification adding an interposing relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. If these were parts store alternators, sometimes those act differently than the genuine starter too.

Welcome! Wow those are nice pictures.

I found the air cutoff tool is the easiest to get the old bolts off. I tried a sawzall but it's hard to work it underneath there, even a short blade is too long and the foot of the sawzall is hard to find a spot for it to rest. Else the swazall wants to move while the blad stands still. Also the sawzall has a tendancy to spin the bolts instead of cutting them. The cutoff tool is what I will use again this time (doing this job on my '94 this weekend). The bolt cutters will work if you have a big pair of bolt cutters and have the vehile up in the air high enough to get the jaws open.

Hello and welcome to the board! Hm that's a tough one. Personally I'd consider selling the vehicle if it's going to be 3 years. It's going to take a lot of depreciation hit in those there years, plus storage for that amount of time could be tricky. i.e. I don't know if you financed it, but generally if financed you must retain insurance coverage on the vehicle even if you're storing it, in case the thing gets stolen, fire damage etc. Anyway, if you are going to store it for that time, some things I would do 1. Fuel stabilizer at the maximum dose and a full tank of fresh fuel, as you said. Some fuel stabilizers will let you double the dose to be good for two years. 2. Store at a cool temperature with low humidity if possible 3. I would prefer to keep the battery connected and put a battery maintainer/charger on. Sometimes electronics gets weird if without power for too long. 4. Make sure mice and stuff can't get into the building/area 5. Change engine oil and filter right before storage and run engine for a few minutes to circulate the fresh oil. Any combustion by products in the oil can cause issues during long storage 6. Yes oil the cylinders, then crank it for a couple seconds to distribute the oil. Also I would use a fogging oil sprayed in the throttle body, because you can get corrosion etc up in the intake and such before the cylinders. The fogging oil will help with that. 7. Put an oily rag in the intake to keep moisture laden air from getting in there. 8. Probably some things I am forgetting Then, on return, before starting the vehicle up, I would 1. Drain the fuel, and add fresh fuel. Cycle key from off to run wait a couple seconds repeat a dozen or two times to circulate the fresh fuel into the fuel rail, before ever trying to start the vehicle. 2. Drain engine oil and fresh oil and filter, yes that oil from three years ago needs to go. 3. Take the oily rag out of the intake Unless humidity is low, brake rotors may rust during storage. Then other maintenance should be done as needed, change brake fluid, etc.

Hello. The first question is what is the weight of the trailer fully loaded. That is required info to select a tow vehicle. If the trailer is more than 1000 lbs typically trailer brakes are suggested. Are they looking to buy new or used, and if used what year range? From there you can look at towing capacities. For 01+ Outbacks for example, the H6 would be my choice for a tow vehicle. If it's a heavier trailer like over 2000 lbs might want to look into the 3.6L Tribeca's, etc.

Hello. The water pump doesn't have to be removed to remove the oil pump, at least I never have. Sometimes the rubber edge on the water pump that seals up against the oil pump (just to keep the timing cover sealed) rubs or is kind of tight but it isn't really an issue. The engine oil does not need to be drained. A small amount of oil might come out when removing the pump but nothing major. It's easier to get the new crank seal on the oil pump before putting it on the engine. Then I grease the crank and use care around the key so as not to rip the new seal. Permatex ultragrey is one of the Subaru listed alternative sealants for this job. Make sure you get a new o-ring too, and make sure it stays in place while putting the pump back on. I have this job to do coming up on my '94 and am going to try an anaerobic sealant such as Loctite 518 instead after discussion with an experienced board member. And tighten and loctite the rear rotor case cover screws (I'm assuming that's why you're doing this job anyway).