porcupine73

That description sounds like P0420. Another cause can be exhaust leaks. The smokyness can be burning oil (how's your PCV valve? it might be all plugged up), or could be other smokes.

Ah ok 140psi is not bad for a '92 engine. I was thinking of later engines for the 180psi. Here's some info from the '94 manual for compression: When checking compression pressures, ensure engine is at normal operating temperature and battery is completely charged. Remove all spark plugs and open throttle fully. Remove ignition coil harness, then install a suitable compression gauge. Crank engine and note compression gauge reading when gauge pointer is steady. Perform at least two measurements per cylinder to ensure compression readings are correct. The maximum compression difference between cylinders is 14 psi. Compression pressures should be 135-156 psi at 300 RPM. Trying to say how long it would last is not easy, I mean you don't know the maintenance history of the engine and it is now probably at least 18 years old. At 170k the water pump is probably pretty tired and it might have many oil leaks and things timing belt/ etc that should be addressed before installing to give a good life.

It could also be parts supercession, i.e. the 80 one superceding the earlier type. Subaru like others probably switches parts vendors over the years. So then if you order multiples you might get some new old stock and some of the new style depending on what the dealer has on hand or orders.

It wasn't a dohc but I use wooden clothes pins just to help hold the belt where I want it, enough force to keep the belt in place but certainly not enough to damage anything or scratch anything...

Foghorn a/c related sound is often the metering/expansion valve at the evaporator.

Do not use the arrows for timing!!!!!!! It is the hash marks. The tensioner must be compressed vvvvverrryyy slowly like taking 10 minutes ie in a vise on the earlier style that have if you have a '93, but you said 'upwards' whcih wsould be the later tensioner sytle. If so it must be compressed vertically (not in a vise) again veryyyyyy slowly or you will kill it.

140 psi seems low, soobs usually put out like a good 180 psi. Was that a wet compression test throttle blocked open? Timing could be off too I suppose.

Personally I would go with the genuine o-rings from Subaru. Only for this reason, I had my injectors serviced by Witch Hunter some years back, and on some of the injectors I used the o-rings WH sent, and on some I used new genuine rings. They looked the same to me, but the o-rings sent by WH leaked air and I had a sucking sound around those injectors. If your local dealer is ripping you off find a Subaru dealer selling parts online.

Consumers probably don't want to pay for such an elaborate AWD setup. Many AWD auto makers have similar requirements to Subaru's 1/4" circumference rule. Tirerack has a pretty good list. I don't know, I figure you pay to play. How often do you really get an unrepairable flat tire. I've had maybe three in my lifetime. One a couple months ago and yes I did have to get four new tires but hey what are you going to do.

As long as the tread depth wear on the tire is even measuring the tread depth should work. Measuring the circumference gives a more accurate indication but is easiest if the wheel is off the ground.

All tires ideally should match within 1/4" circumference at most. Get the same brand and model replacement tire. If the new tire doesn't meet the 1/4" requirement or is even close to it, look for someplace like a race shop that will shave the tire down for you. If it doesn't meet specs and it is an AT run the FWD fuse until that is done.

Yah I wouldn't pull the block plugs just to change coolant. But right on they're 14mm hex. They are usually pretty hard to get out. For doing coolant heaters I usually use an impact wrench on them and even then it takes some beating to get those buggers out.

I think they can fail so that they simply won't hold prime. Also turning the crank too much while doing the timing belt supposedly can make them bleed down. Some notes on endwrench imply that after the engine idles for like a half hour or somethign they would reprime themselves. I haven't had any issues with them on my '96 2.2L but it only has about 125k miles.

Yah that part # 22690AA45C is a rear o2 sensor. The sourcing site incorrectly lists it as being for both front and rear for the H6.

it wasn't a bad scratch but you know drill bits a mind of their own when close to a nice smooth surface they just can't resist but be attracted to it. I polished off the scratch as best I could hopefully it won't eat up the seal lip. Can you tell a little more about the napa green goop, I want to pick some of that up.

It would give you a little extra height. The cv's seem to be able to tolerate the bit of extra angle just fine. I mean the Outback's tolerate the angle though they do also have that body spacer. What year legacy are you doing this on? Basically '96-'99 (mcpherson) should be compatible, and then '00 to maybe '04 (that is rear multilink).

Yes I have tried the drill and screws method and scratched the cam that way.

Interesting video. I wish I could get the soob seals to come out that easily. I always have to wrestle with them even with that tool switching sides a couple times etc to get them to come out, especially when they've been in there for 10 years.

Yes I like that tool too, I bought a couple on eBay they work pretty nicely. Putting the new seals in I put a little grease on the outside of the seal to help it go in, doing it dry seemed way too hard and it kind of rubbed the rubber off the metal when I tried it that way.

If it is the part # you seek, try opposedforces.com or subarupartsforyou.com they both list genuine part #'s.

Mineral oil was for R12 systems. R134A generally uses PAG. The zexel and calsonic took different weights one was 100 I htink the ohter was 110.

hehe this is the pic I have, I cleaned and painted them a couple years ago but never put them on. Then I found out the rear drum to disc was more involved than I hoped so didn't do anything with them.

Ok excellent thanks for the info.

For the fronts I don't think you need backing plates or anything, just the calipers and brackets and if rotor diameter is different then the rotors. 543 pages hehe I'll take your word for it. Thanks for the info. I imagine if the vehicle has abs risk is even lower since the front wheels can't lock up then anyway. How about for a '96 brighton, do you think it would be okay to leave the rear drums (just a bit more involved than I want to get right now), but put on the dual pot front calipers (since I already have them and that's a quick swap)? Thanks.