porcupine73

parts store rebuilts are pretty much just replace the faulty component, clean it and box it. if it is a major part not worth fixing then just scrap the core. Maybe you get new bearings if you are lucky.

Not sure if this helps but : http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7229

Not sure the benefits, maybe easier to find. The '96 or so Legacy alternators remanufactured by Subaru are only about $60, cheaper than the parts store junk alts in many cases.

MAF is mass air flow (sensor). It's in the plastic intake snorkus tube thing right after the air filter. I have heard on here that while the vehicle is idling, if you tap gently the top of the maf with the butt of a screwdriver and the engine stumbles that the MAF is faulty. The MAF tells the ECU how much air the engine is aspirating so it knows how much corresponding fuel is needed. If it is getting a bad signal from the MAF, it will be adding the wrong amount of fuel and then ovbiously the engine no run so good.

How's your MAF? When those things go flaky they can cause a lot of issues. To rule out fuel issues, you could tape a fuel pressure gauge outside the windshield and then see what it is reading when it starts to act up.

The handle itself broke? Usually it is the metal bracket that rusts out. The metal brackets from Subaru dealers selling online are only $20-$25.

Hm...not sure. I know the conditioner stuff is a brown mess, if that stuff were in the coolant I don't think it would be a nice green color like that, it would look more muddy. I think Subaru was adding the conditioner at the factory on new vehicles for a while but I don't think it comes in the coolant jug themselves.

What's it doing, not putting out? Haven't attempted any interal alternator repairs, but the issue could be the regulator/rectifier, that thing with the IH247 writing on it. You might be able to get that part separately on eBay or something like that (if it's the problem). This is one I was looking at on eBay, I have a '00obw alternator that started putting out 16 volts: Found this in the files:

Yes soob manual trans do call for GL-5, it needs the extreme pressure additives. Synchromesh is more for Honda's and stuff that are transverse mount and don't have hypoid gears in the diff.

Nice rig. Some people do some serious towing with soobs like way above what is recommended. This is a '87 F250 my dad used to have, this thing was a beast, 472ci v8 or something like that engine I think it had. I think it had the dana 70 rear diff. It had a 5th wheel hitch that would pull this large camper trailer up the steepest hills without batting an eyelash.

Yes ditto, fuel filter if you haven't done it lately. Those conditions you described are when the engine is going to be demanding the most fuel and it might not be getting enough if that is restricted. Don't think '94 has EGR but fuel filter is in same spot:

Hm synchromesh manual transmission fluid? I don't think that stuff is GL-5 rated so it would not be for use in a Subaru manual trans, not enough protection for the front differential hypoid gears.

Seafoam is pale oil, naptha, isopropyl alcohol, and water.

The a/c pressure switch is on the receiver/dryer near the front right strut tower. I have a '94 that the a/c won't turn on...but I think it has something to do with the severely bent condensor

It is fixed. You don't hear of as many soob head gasket issues after '03. Plus the HG's for the motors that had issues had some changes so that the current Subaru genuine replacements when put in correctly don't seem to have high recurrance of failures.

I put it in.

It's probably a little (or a lot) of rust keeping it on the shaft. In addition to the above, try to get some good penetrating oil in there.

Right on, '99 2.2L is interference piston to valve. That other endwrench quote about the 2.2L's not being interference is misleading. That particular quote about the 2.2L not being intereference is in a Subaru engine publication as well, but I believe it was published before 1997, and it was true until model year '97. There is a good article on endwrench about H4 and H6 engines, and it tells by year what the changes were. a couple excerpts 2.2 Liter Phase 1 Engine Enhancements The 2.2 liter Phase 1 engine has been enhanced, starting with 1997 model year ... Compression ratio has been increased to 9.7 to 1 by reshaping the crown of the piston. This eliminates the clearance that was available etween the piston at TDC and a fully opened valve.

Do you have a manual transmission?

You could try jumping the starter solenoid to verify if the starter and solenoid are working and that the starter has power. Did you reconnect that large ground cable when the starter was replaced?

Oh good point what year is this 1.8L? Is it fuel injected?

If air is in the system you would need to draw vacuum first to get the air out, and ideally cause the moisture in the system to boil out. Air and moisture in the a/c system are not good and make it work poorly if at all.

If so, it might explain the starting issues. You must have a cam position sensor somewhere. I don't know that lhd vehicle engine would be any different than rhd....has to be near one of the camshafts somewhere obviousy.........

Hi. Hm no that first pic looks more like the engine oil pressure switch. The second pic does look like the crank position sensor. The crank position sensor is usually an orange colored sensor mounted on the top of the oil pump, kind of under the alternator, near that oil pressure switch sort of. Here it is on a 2.2L, the orange thing: cam angle sensor is also orange at least mine was on 2.2L, also orange, here it is in a few spots the orange thing.

Hm.....did you happen to have any front axles or cv joint boots replaced?