porcupine73

It is a terrific project! I hope it's coming along smoothly. How about a spare ignitor to ship along with it?

No Torx for the brakes on those years at least not that I have seen. 12mm 14mm 17mm are the common bolt sizes there though I have had a couple times where it was something else such as 15mm or 16mm but I think they were remanufactured calipers. Subaru does not use threaded pistons, at least not on the common man's Subaru models of that era.

Sorry about that it was code 52 I got back in 2007.

Right I don't think you can find a true Dexron III ATF anymore because GM stopped renewing licenses to blenders for it some years back. i have seen them say something like for applications formerly calling for Dexron II/IIE/III etc.

It will be a disappointment to my coworker. Some years back she saw my Subaru sticker and said she had a Subaru too. I asked what kind and she said Forester. I said what do you like best about Subaru, thinking it would be something along the lines of the legendary reliability, capable all wheel drive, etc. She said she didn't like all the smooth lines on new cars, that's why she picked a Forester because she likes boxy vehicles.

I don't remember where I saw it maybe on nasioc that some people were saying Neo HP 800 wheel bearing grease was supposedly really good. I tried various greases over the years always intending to keep track of what seemed to work but I didn't and have no idea. I have noticed that the various reman calipers I've gotten all seem to have what I think it just plain clear silicone grease in them.

Sounds good. Yes the ATF friction modifiers degrade over time and something like the transfer clutch might get a bit chatty. There was a bulletin out at one time I believe that mentioned adding Lubegard black to the ATF periodically. I believe the idea is it's laden with friction modifiers to make clutches a bit happier. The filter on there I wouldn't really worry about since it's really more of a suction strainer for the ATF pump than an actual filter. Anyway enjoy I too have a '96 Legacy Brighton and if it weren't for rust eating the poor thing alive and every metal line ATF, fuel, etc it can find I could probably drive it another 20 years!

Looks good! Ideally I'd get some kind of plastic covering over the + terminal. Else later on whilst not paying careful attention a wrench or screwdriver could cause an unexpected energy release or a bit of welding going on under the hood.

Or to word things another way ... I don't think bubbles in the overflow would ever be a symptom of a radiator malfunction. You said sometimes the heater is not throwing heat. It's possible there's flow through the heater core just that with no thermostat she's probably running a lot cooler than normal even if the temp gauge seems to be reading about normal especially for short trips where it's not hot outside. I've noticed with a scangauge that until the water temp gets above around 140-150F it doesn't really feel like heat though it will be a bit warm. But then again if you're getting bubbles in the overflow then you actually might not be getting any flow through the core.

Well I mean there's always the risk or unknown unknowns and that's what makes buying a used car or even a newish car so exciting. One thing I'd be thinking ... how's the clutch? That's a fair amount of work/cost to replace so I'd want to make sure it's got lots of life left before buying. If he really is doing the timing belt make sure the idlers get done too and maybe the water pump etc. If you're counting on that 12 month warranty check his reputation with other people who've had to get warranty work done by him. That car is too old/too many miles to qualify for any NY implied warranty so it will be his word for anything it needs. And what does he cover, labor only, or parts and labor. Can you use your own parts, mostly just a question because else a person can mark up the parts a little extra to help cover the labor.

I just had that issue on my '96 Legacy. I do not think there is an aftermarket offering for those lines. I got mine from subarupartsforyou. The only tool I had that would get at the banjo fitting was a 19mm flex head gearwrench I happened to have. That worked pretty well. Plus there is a slight bit of give on the trans so you can jam a piece of wood or something between the trans case and body to get a little extra wiggle room. Have your trans cooler hard lines under the battery rusted out yet? If not I'd look at them since if your hard lines on the trans rusted out the ones under the battery are probably close too. And rear brake lines if those haven't rusted through yet and started leaking fluid somewhere above the fuel tank.

Not sure if this helps but I'm pretty sure it was code 42 I got on my '00 Outback many years ago and it turned out to be a bad ground. There was a ground wire with a ring terminal on it that had a bad connection. It went away after I cleaned that up.

If you don't have a big enough clamp but have a big enough pair of channel locks I've found those work great to push the piston(s) back in. Plus in my mind it lets you kind of gauge how much force you're using. If it takes very much oomph or seems to get stuck that can be a bad sign, since if water got behind the piston boots the piston might have rust on it at the end, and then basically if you shove that rusty area into the seal it may get stuck or possibly start leaking if it rips the seal.

It's probably just to limit potential abrasion against the insulation. On the ground it isn't the end of the world if the insulation wears through like it would be on the positive. A quick fix I've done is like he said some electrical tape for additional protection and maybe a piece of that split loom tubing and a small zip tie. Though granted that doesn't look super nice under the hood but with old rusty soobs appearance under the hood doesn't have to be a top priority.

On mine a serious grinding sound has usually meant one of the pads was worn right down to the metal. Though some sources of rotors I have noticed seem to get destroyed from sitting outside without use for even a couple months. If you're looking at rockauto maybe try to gauge the condition of your calipers, they sometimes have reman calipers with the brackets for a really reasonable price. I like those because it takes any guesswork out of whether the piston is seized or rusty or pitted possibly and any cleaning/greasing/corrosion in the guide/lock pins/sliders. For rotors I have been having excellent results with Centric's lowest price rotors.

Hm I have seen that part before but I can't remember where it was located. For some reason the starter comes to mind but I can't picture it.

Not sure, a few random thoughts ... do you see the brake light on at all or flickering? Are you sure the big fat heavy ground wire that connects near/at the starter got reconnected when the starter was replaced? If one of the diodes shorts in the alternator it can make it do strange things. I had that happen on my 2000 Outback and it would run but it was like not all cylinders were firing or something and the ABS light came out.

Right on I think around 100 lbs is what I've seen in my Legacy manual too. I think that rating isn't so much that the rack can't hold more than that, I mean it can definitely support more than that as a static load. I think they keep the weight down low because of (1) emergency handling might get crazy with too much load up there, and (2) in an accident they probably don't want to chance the rack ripping right off the roof.

Hm not sure I've done two of that kind using the Harbor Freight FWD adapters, the part in yours that sounds strange is 'pressed outter bearing all the way snuggly against shelf on the hub'. What do you mean by shelf? With the FWD adapters basically on installation you end up pulling the hub through both parts of the bearing until the hub is a few mm short of being flush with the inside bearing.

I had a similar problem on my 2000 Outback, I got a Doorman brand replacement for like $35 on Amazon. Though it's probably not the same as a 2006. On the 2000 replacement was super simple, since mine was already popping out a bit anyway I just pried on it and the unit lifted out of the arm rest. Unplugged the old one and plugged in the new one.

'96 Legacy 2.2L AT 140k miles. I just suddenly started getting P0303 and P0304 and the flashing CEL. I forget is that usually the ingitor or the coil? I tapped the coil and ignitor with the butt of a flashlight but no change and all the connections seem ok. I drove it that way about 4 miles and the exhaust got really loud - did I destroy the cat? It happened when I was pulling out of a parking lot. I gunned it and all was fine then I thought it shifted into second and that's why I lost power. But then at the stop light when I took off it would move but it had just about no power. I pulled over fortunately before getting on the interstate. I thought it was running out of gas because the tank leaks so I only keep a couple gallons in it and the gauge is flaky. It seemed to keep running though. Then the hazard lights didn't work so I got confused. Since it seemed to keep running I drove on the side street to a gas station and put a couple gallons in but that didn't make any difference. I found the hazard fuse blown for some reason, replaced it and then at least those worked again. So I decided to try to take side streets about 4 miles to get home. It was working ok until I noticed the exhaust getting louder and louder. Then I remembered I had read in a post that the unbrunt fuel when it's misfiring like that will make the cat meltdown and plug. So I pulled over and shut it off and let it sit for maybe 15 minutes to cool a bit. I had about 1/2 mile left to home. I made it home. Then I thought if I had unplugged the injectors for cyl 3 and 4 before driving it I might have saved the cat.

I'll have to remember Amazon for those. I just burnt the last of my Subaru Bucks ordering this one plus the sway bar link on that side is destroyed too I noticed. The hole is stretched to like twice the normal size. I think I saw RockAuto also had the Febest unit but it showed out of stock. I don't know how many more years this '96 has left, things are getting pretty darn rusty under there and the fuel tank leaks at the seam if it's more than about 1/3 full.

Yes, I tested it out and tore mine. I had taken it off when replacing the ball joint a few years ago, and tightened them with no weight on the wheel. The grease started oozing out pretty good shortly after that. I ordered a new one but I'm worried about the nut that holds it onto the arm since all I see is a rusty looking nub with a round rusty lump on it that looks like it might be a nut. Ahhhh that makes perfect sense to me now since my '96 Legacy started doing the tram laning a bit where it feels more like piloting a boat. And I did start noticing torque steer which I thought was really strange since I never felt it in a Subaru before.

Did you use the little hash marks to do the timing? Or did you use the arrows? Though if the arrows were used I don't believe it would start at all so that might not be it but using the arrows has certainly happened at least a few times in other posts.

Nice, two hours, how much pepsi did you drink?