porcupine73

Did you get a check engine light at any time during this? Could be a lot of things to cuase this sort of thing and not even set off CEL such as maf and knock snensor.

Hm....I did this service on my 2000 Outback a couple years ago, but I had the printed service manuals....or I used alldatadiy but I don't remember for sure. http://www.endwrench.com might have the procedure, it's actaully pretty straightfoward on the sohc with the setscrew type adjustment.

Hi. The troubleshooting chart is pretty straightforward.

Yes that pic is from the a front. I think there's circlips or something that hold those in place and if too much force is applied the clip can pop off and let the stub come out? So you'd probably want to make sure to get the old clip out when draining the gear oil and if it doesn't come out maybe use on of those little flexible retrievers with the magnet on it to try to get it out.

I don't know; it's just something I was thinking of that has a possibility of allowing timing to jump on a manual trans soob anyway... it say Beginning with the 1998 model year, 2.5 liter engines have this sheet metal belt guide mounted above the crankshaft sprocket. The belt guide serves to maintain belt engagement mainly during the time the vehicle is being shipped. Manual transmission vehicles are shipped in gear, which transmits the rocking action of the shipment vehicle to the cambelt tensioner, compressing the oil chamber. The tensioner begins to refill the oil chamber after the engine is started and in some cases the tension of the belt was not increased in a timely manner. This would cause the torque of the engine to slip the crankshaft sprocket ahead of the timing belt, creating a crankshaft to camshaft timing problem.

Did that guide plate thing that goes above the belt above the crank sprocket get reinstalled correctly?

Is this an automatic or manual transmission?

Do they both have or not have EGR?

Hadn't thought of the chaser. I think even pepboys has the lisle thread chaser, it's tapped for the common spark plug sizes maybe one of those matches the o2 sensor thread. If the o2 sensor feels way too loose in the hole then maybe it is stripped out. Maybe some fiberfrax would do the trick, this place is near my work http://www.fiberfrax.com/

There is the whole 'can' and 'should' thing. There is no adjustment that 'should' be made. The ECU has a control loop acting on the IACV based on idle rpm.....so unless it shuts the valve or opens the valve as far as it is willing to go and still can't control the rpm at the setpoint then the iacv 'adjustment' should be the issue. Thoguht they sometimes get gummy and sticky and don't open or close properly of course. Not sure how seafoam in the fuel tnak would help with that though since the fuel does not pass through the iacv. There is a recommended procedure for cleaning it on endwrench (at least for the speed dnesity based setups but the same basic idea applies to them all except drive by wire of course).

Well the helicoil is kind of a pain because you have to drill out the hole to a larger size, then put in the helicoil, not impossible, but more work/skill required than jb weld for emaple. Helicoils can be surprisgnly pricey too.

Is the differential output shafts sometimes referred to as stub shafts? these things?

http://www.porcupine73.com/endwrench/Diagnostic Trouble Code P1507 DiagTroubSum04.pdf

Hmmm.mhmmmm..mmhm...well if you're looking for a fast fix (vs something like a helicoil), it'll have to be something that can withstand high temperatures like at least 1000F I'd say.......not sure if teflon tape can withstand that.....maybe some kind of nomex packing or something like that.....there are thread repair kits that are sort of like jbweld but not sure what temp those can withstand.....loctite maybe but loctite is not relaly intended to bridge gaps which is what you have.....

hehe yes, the valves closed things I see in a lot of single cylinder small engines for generators, wackers, etc. It says to pull until you feel that it is on the compression stroke. Guessing there probably isn't a position though on the soob where all the valves on all the cylinders are closed. But stuffing the intake and exhaust ports with an oily rag could at least help keep moist air from comin in there.

Nice pics! Wow Blu is really well polished, esp in that last pic very shiny

Yes I have had issues on '00obw with the little tabs for the bulbs not mkaing good contact (making me think bulb was blown but it wasn't). DRL on that era is high beam bulb run at reduced intensity (via PWM pulse width modulation at the DRL module. PWM is also the modulation method the TCU uses for the auto trans solenoids).

Since it's out of the car, I'd be putting some LC20 in each spark plug hole and then turn the crank a few times to spread it around in the cylinder. Stuff an oily rag in the intake and exhaust ports. Not sure if there is any position like this but leave crank in a position with the most possible valves closed. Before the enigne was removed, it should have been run with gaosline with a stiff does of fuel stabilizer to help prevent gunking up of the injectors.

Yes this is proper dash illumination on a '96 legacy (brighton) when moving key from acc to run.

Did you have a chance to check that B22 connector?

Also, if replaced with an aftermarket unit, that might be worse than the well-used original part. What's some other tips....keep fuel filter changed regularly to prevent excessive restriction for the pump, which makes it draw more current, which makes it get hotter... and some people say keep enough fuel in the tank to immerse the pump since the fuel can kind of act like a coolant for the pump then?

It's was made by K&W which was bought by CRC about 10 years ago. http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=402132&S=Y Looks like parts america carries it. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductListSimple.aspx?Category=2129

Yah I gave up on the pinch bolt....I could not budge it without fear of it snapping.....which has happened to many many an individual. Undid the strut to bearing housing bolts instead and checked camber afterwards. How's about a bunch of pics? this is from my '00obw job with an MWE axle: