porcupine73

haha you are not kidding. I have had places throw all the parts, hard heavy parts like strut springs and delicate parts like oxygen sensors into a box, ZERO packing on the bottom, and then throw some craft paper on top as if that is going to make it all better.

Yes good results here too, I like they keep common parts in stock and I am only 1-2 ups shipping days from them. The only issues I've had is when I order part in the 'comments' field that I can 't find on the site sometimes I don't receive it, like the part # is hand written on the order but whoever is packing the order doesn't notice it or something. A big plus in my mind for them is they do NOT use that blasted trademotion.com software thing. That thing just plain stinks. They have their own setup with, get this, OEM Subaru part numbers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:

hehe...remove very carefully. If it's really siezed in there might need heat and vise grips to get it out. Then inspect the pin and bore. The pin can be replaced, but if the bore is corrdoed then that can be trouble. Let's see what picds I have on file....... and the new purple ceramic...don't have a pic of that yet.

haha..hm maybe you did do something to tick off pilladaes

haha whatever you have that is destroying the knock sensors is destroying them everywhere it is not at all an uncommon problem. The only sacrifice required is money to purchase new parts muhahaha. I think the constellation is pilladaes or something like that isn't it?

Yes I usually just wrap a shop towel around the hose before removing it. It does spray a little but it's not like a gusher. Another way is if you can find the access port under the rear seat/cargo area and disconnect the connector there while running that works pretty well too. This is what the connector looks like on a '96 2.2l anyway....

Does the fuel pump get power when it won't restart? Seems there have been a couple posts for that era where ht eoutput transistor in the ECU that drives the fuel pump relay burns out and cuases that issue?

I think this was it: Loyale And Legacy HLA Noise http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/LoyalInfo.pdf Should you encounter a Legacy or an Impreza with noisy hydraulic lash adjusters (HLA) which do not pressurize during normal running, the cause may be a partially blocked oil passage in the rocker shaft. Also, Loyale vehicles, especially those with higher mileage, may have an oil flow problem due to the oil pump. When checking oil pressure, it may be within specifications but the volume of oil may not be sufficient. In this case, it is recommended the oil pump be replaced.

I'm guessing you have those big honking HLA's then. If they're the same style they should be swappable. I think there is a special tool that is supposed to make getting them out easier? Some people have said marvel mystery oil MMO has helped free up stuck hla's. I think there is a note on endwrench about some oil passage that can get blocked and cause ticking hla's.....i can have a look see if i can find it.

Maybe in your case a resistor would be something to use for troubleshooting to see if the code stays off then. Maybe there is an issue in the upstream wiring for the knock sensor. I thought you were saying the haynes manual says there should not be continuity between the knock sensor and ground. 500 kiloohms resistance is not continuity. Continuity would usually be may a couple ohms or less, like when measuring the resistance of a piece of wire.

hehe yep out with the old knock sensor, in with the good resistor. I meant to use 560k but accidentally used a 470k but it seems to work ok.

Hm....did you notice if the oil pressure light stayed on for a few seconds after startup? Or wait you have that jdm gauge set right did the pressure take exceptionally long to build up? Maybe the adbv got stuck open a little or let oil leak back out while it was shut down, then it took a few seconds to kind of reprime the system? Or maybe the oil filter doesn't have an adbv, I think certain soob oil filters didn't have one?

No, the code is purely an electrical issue. It never means the ECU thinks it is detecting knock. However yes gasoline oxidizes and gets stale over time esp in hot weather so generally if gasoline is not going to be used within a couple months using a stabilizer is a good idea. Generally when it says 'continuity' it means no or very low resisatnce like a few ohms. Dratted cracked knock sensor pic Gary mentioned:

Did you count the turns of the old outer tie rod end onto new tie rod end and try to duplicate that on the new ones? That usually gets it close to start. When I did mine even counting the turns the left front toe out was out by nearly 1/2" when I was done. I used the strings alignment method to do the adjustment, it can be pretty accurate if you take your time and actually probably doesn't take much longer than sitting in the waiting room at a shop. Using white out, with the steering wheel centered, I put a little hash mark at the top of the steering wheel to the plastic cover thing behind it so I can put the wheel at exactly that spot each time. getting the string lined up

Oh sorry about that. Yes that happened to me too. I believe this page might have the part you seek: http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Outback&subcat=Cargo+Curtain%2C+Hardware&year=1998

Never heard of any 'recalibrate' for a soob ECU. Maybe the newest model vehicles would need something like that. Could be some other makes that do require it so the seller makes that generic statement to cover themselves. Also saw this note, it says for '95s but heck it could be worth a shot: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/1995SubaruInfo.pdf 1995 Subaru Legacy - DTC P0505 - Idle Control System Malfunction If you encounter a 1995 Subaru Legacy with a DTC P0505 (Idle Control System Malfunction), check to see that the wire pins in connector B22 are securely fastened in the connector. If pin 13 (BY) has backed out of the connector, you will lose two grounds at the ECU. Actually I think I remember some time back someone having this issue on a '96 and we looked up some diagrams and stuff.... here's what I have

Are you sure it broke off? Some of them had a little screw that held it in and the screw would come out over time.

For North America Subaru says on their site they will send a manual if they have one. Not sure about Kenya. You could get the NA manual in PDF format by registering at my.subaru.com but of course things may be different for your region's vehicle.

All my soobs get the stiff shifter if they sit for more a couple weeks. Solution I use is spray the linkage on the RH/passenger side of the trans with Kroil and that frees it right up. I assume it is something rusting up in there maybe.

Nope, no idea, but there are ones listed in inventory at dealers nationwide so they do exist.

Well this is a dilly of a pickle

Hm...in this article http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/WheelBearing.pdf it says (I think this is talking about the roller bearings that replaced the ball bearing style for Impreza and Forester though). "The new genuine Subaru rear wheel bearings are not to be packed with grease of any kind. The bearing is ready to install out of the box."

haha I think it was like 114mph or something like that, a little faster in one direction than the other. They did a lot of stuff like replace the gear oil with ATF to reduce losses, etc. The full story is somewhere on Subaru's site in the 'in the attic' column.

Thanks grossgary. Yes I always put in a fresh bottle of the glop with the coolant changes. I do see a slight bit of wetness at the firewall side of both headgaskets but no actual dripping. Right on any engine can get that pesky exhaust blowing into coolant HG failure but it is not the typical failure mode for this phase II 2.5L.

I think it is time to try the adjustment. The vehicle just threw a P1101 yesteday. DTC P1101 - NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT DTC DETECTING CONDITION: Two consecutive driving cycles with fault TROUBLE SYMPTOM: Erroneous idling I note now that when putting it in neutral or drive, I have to push foward slightly on the shift lever, otherwise the P or N is not lit up on the dash. I"m guessing this is what upset the ECU.