porcupine73

Yes there was a good thread some time back showing that the ATF filter has some potentially important differences vs. an engine oil filter. For one the Subaru ATF has some kind of mesh over the bypass, probably to keep at least the larger particles of metal from getting into the ATF cooler and plugging it up.

Hm, you know what, I would check to see if the air bag module is even in place. As it has been on since you got the vehicle maybe the airbag deployed at some point and was not replaced? The circa '96s had a tsb out where if a curb was hit hard enough with the tow hooks under the front of the vehicle, the airbag would deploy. tsb solution-cut off tow hooks.

Hi Tim. I have a '96 Legacy too! Let's see...air bag codes. Code 11 says it could one or more of the following: DIAGNOSIS: Airbag control module is faulty. Airbag main harness circuit is open. Fuse No.8 is blown. Body harness circuit is open. Code 14 says.... (basically these appear to be all the yellow connectors in the system). DIAGNOSIS: (AB9) and (AB10) are not connected properly. (AB2) and (AB7) are not connected properly. (AB3) and (AB8) are not connected properly. (AB6) is not connected properly to airbag control module.

Just curious, is it possible to thread the used axle nut back on so that a different (fresh) part of the axle nut ends up at the stake position? Not sure if the threads could work out that way? Yes, I agree I don't think it is the remanufacturer's job to include a new axle nut or spring/roll pin. I just thought I would make note of it. Speaking of which....I need to order me up an MWE axle for my '94, I spotted a torn outer boot on her a few weeks back and sometimes she's clicking in the turns.

You know, a test drive under light, medium, heavy throttle, etc., making sure it feels like it is shifting correctly. AWD soobs need to be checked for torque bind. Ah ha hehe I at first thought you were Lionel, and welcome! Ladies and gentlemen, Mr. Lionel Hutz:

Id say test drive it cold and warm, light throttle, full throttle, and make sure the auto trans is operating properly before purchase. After a used vehicle purchase a thorough maintenenace going over including ATF change is prudent. ATF can get a little darker with age, the dyes fade, the fluid oxidizes, etc; that may be what you are seeing.

Some makes manual transmissions use/used engine oil; generally these were transverse mount setups that did not have a hypoid differential setup (this is what typically requires a GL-5 gear oil for the extreme pressure components sulfur etc).

Yes that is what my research showed before I bought from them too. I have also tried a Subaru oem reman axle on my '96 which seems to be working fine too but again is like twice the price of the mwe. Note the mwe did not include a new axle nut and spring/roll pin, which the subaru oem reman did (not a big deal; the axle nut is maybe $4)

That is fine to use if your soob specifies Dexron II/III. I use the amsoil syn atf in all my soobs and it works great. If you have a newer soob that specifies the Subaru/Idemtisu HP-ATF, then the amsoil syn atf is not recommended.

Hi. Was it doing this before the new tires were installed? Did you get all four new tires, or just say two new on the front or rear?

Hi. welcome! '00obw here too! Abbrev. ver: drain atf via plug, refill atf, pull hose off trans cooler (remove plastic underdoor, the hoses are right at the bottom of the rad), put hoses into plastic jug, start engine until 2 quarts pump out, shut off, add 2 quarts to auto trans, repeat several times, verify proper level.

Sounds like both vehicles are auto trans, so yes in the parts car if you want any chance of using the trans either towing all four wheels off the ground or disconnecting drive shaft would be prudent. If one of the vehilces happens to be a manual trans, you can tow that all four wheels on the ground.

Sounds good! That other leaking you mentioned is probably from the valve cover gaskets.

Hi. I used an MWE axle on the front of my '00obw. I have had it one for maybe 10,000 miles. Has been great so far. None of the vibration or clicking issues that seem to occur sometimes with parts store axles. I have also used a Subaru OEM reman axle on a different soob which worked fine too (but at nearly twice the price). Here's what mine looked like: Only note: MWE axle (mine anyway) did not include a new axle nut and spring/roll pin.

Hi steve. You could probably take it off if you want. Certain soob years and models have that pan and some don't. My '00obw has that thing, but once I figured out there is an access hole for the oil drain plug and a slide out part for the oil filter access I don't worry about it anymore.

Next time the oil filter is off, wipe clean and inspect carefully (both visually and with fingernail) the metal portion of the block where the oil filter seal seats. It should be very smooth, not necessarily mirror like but there could be scratches or gouges on there allowing oil to seep past the seal. Only thing could really be failed closed or not opening sufficiently pressure relief valve (located right on the oil pump itself). It opens at about 72psi.

The more typical HG failure mode on that engine 2.5L sohc phase II would be the external peeping leak typically at the LH/driver head rear. If the owner doesn't remember having the timing belt done, most likely it was not, since people usually remember $500+ maintenance/repairs If it's an auto trans, check it for slow engagement to drive. Also check front sway bar, a number of those have fractured on the '00obw's. And torque bind/tire matching check as always for soobs.

Hi and welcome! You're sure it is the oil filter itself leaking? If so there may be a gouge in the oil filter seal mating surface on the block. I think some soob oil filters for a short period had an issue with leaks so soob changed suppliers? Or oil might be leaking out of the bottom of the timing cover and down onto the filter.

Hm...do you see a VDC off switch and/or the VDC indicator on the cluster anywhere? There's some info abuot the McIntosh here: http://www.drive.subaru.com/01_04_Winter/SoundVision.htm hotlink

It's the best explanation I could find. That's a pic from some Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association bulletin I found one time. It also shows a possible faulty low clutch timing solenoid? atra-4eat-delayed-forward-engagement-bulletin-844a.pdf

That '96 outback would have a phase I 4eat; those seem to be capable of good mileages. Like any auto trans though at higher mileages especially it is quite dependant on how it was treated. If the ATF was changed regularly, it wasn't overheated or abused in towing, etc., then it has a much better chance at a long life than if the ATF is still original, it towed a 5th wheel trailer, etc. The early (99, 00, sometimes 01) phase II auto trans sometimes have an issue with a delayed engagement to drive, which appears to be some shrinking seal on one of the drums:

Perhaps. I would think the a/c compressor brake horse has to be right around that range. It might cause you some idle issues though. i.e. the ECU typically bumps up idle slightly just before turning on the a/c compressor, etc.

hehe, it's just the old quintessential blinker fluid joke. Your list looks pretty complete. I might pass on the wheel bearing lubrication check depending on cost. they could actually damage the wheel bearings while extracting the axle from the hub if it is siezed in there. Oh actually I was wrong, the KaleCo is only good for 150,000 blinks..... Make sure to read the 'reviews'. Be careful about the claim that it may be used in any car! Certain foreign makes actually require the use of a silicone-based blinker fluid. I used this stuff and rotted out the lines on my car. This is not an experience you want. If you think I'm kidding, go look for the blinker lines on your own car and see how tough they are to replace. Being as safety item, most manufacturers place lots of shielding on the lines (heck....you usually can't even see the lines) and this all has to be removed. My advice? Call your car's manufacturer to check before using this product.

Oh yah only KaleCo 1 million blinks synthetic blinker fluid will do.

Does it need to pass the exhaust sniff test too for nox and stuff like that? If it's in good tune I would think it would pass that too. Some tricks I hear is to make sure the engine is completely warmed before the test, leave vehicle idling at the testing station until your turn (don't shut off), and if necessary put a few bottles of isopropyl drygas in the tank. Maybe the vehicle is calif. emissions? Those were sold in lots of other states that required Calif. emissions too. I think there's supposed to be this door sticker if it is. My '96 underhood sticker says it meets Calif. emissions, but it does not have the door sticker, and a VIN# lookup says it is not calif emissions.