porcupine73

Hi chef_tim! I noted some '09 forester info at http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2009.html If you scroll down on that page, Joe has all the info on the various trim levels 2009 Summary. The completely remodeled, all new 2009 Forester is a slightly larger car than previous models, with a 103" wheelbase (3.6" longer than previous years). The light beige interior is finally gone! New double-wishbone rear suspension improves crash-worthiness and the same time providing crisper handling, a quieter ride and increased interior space and cargo room. The car is expected to start arriving in late March-early April with customer sold pre-orders arriving first of course. Pre-orders are accepted starting in early February. Romans 5:8 signature yes good! "But God demonstrates His own love toward us, in that while we were yet sinners, Christ died for us."

Hi. A few things to check. Are any of the brake pads worn all the way down? Check for any loose caliper mounting hardware. Once someone had a missing caliper bolt, which every time the brakes were pressed, the caliper would move and hit -clunk- on the inside of the wheel. Also if the pads are too loose in the caliper brackets they can shift when the brakes are pressed and again clunk. I'm sure there are probalby lots of other possibilites too.

Plus transmission shops There's no guarantee the thing will work right after the 'rebuild' or what other problems you might have afterward.

Good info! tcspeer, did the crow foot adapters included with the harbor freight inner tie rod tool fit the soob tie rods? evothis, the additional crow foot adapters you said you had from a tool sale....were those from harbor freight? Just wondering because if it takes 21mm, the harbor freight setup list doesn't include anything even close enough to that size to work properly..... [sAE 1-3/16", 1-1/4",1-5/16",1-7/16" and Metric 14 mm, 17 mm, 33.6 mm] I need to do left inner tie rod on my '96 and '00. This grease that is inside the inner tie rod boot....does new grease come with the new tie rod end?

Sure you can do it. Side stacks optional.

This is what the transfer clutch looks like (it's the rear extension housing of the AT, where the propeller shaft to the rear diff connects.) The duty c solenoid is the gold colored thing with the wire coming off of it near the lower right of the pic.

Grounding terminal # 5 of connector B82 a 6 pole black, right side of steering column. Trouble codes will be displayed through AT Temp light. There are 14 possible trouble codes communicated from the TCU.

Sounds good. You may have a failed duty c solenoid then (considering the AT temp light flashing). I'll look up the method to get it to flash out the code.

Hi and welcome! When you had the tires replaced, did you get all four new tires, or just two new on the front or rear? It sounds like your soob has what is often called 'torque bind'. Do you notice the AT temp light flashing at all on startup? My typical torque bind spiel For auto trans, if the AT temp light flashes 16 times on startup, then the TCU has detected some issue. Read the code(s); it may be a failed duty c solenoid (which can cause the binding). All tires should be same brand and nominal size and tire pressure should be correct. Measure the circumference of all four tires (wheel will have to be lifted off the ground to do it). They must all match within 1/4" circumference. You will not be able to visually see this much difference so the tire circumferences must be measured. For automatic transmission: For auto trans, flush ATF using a new quality fluid. Sometimes if the torque bind isn't too bad or just started, fresh ATF can help. Sometimes it takes multiple flushes over a period of time. For auto trans, this one is a little controversial, but many people do it with success: put in a few ounces of differential limited slip additive (NOT gear oil - just the limited slip additive). If this helps, people often say they have to add a few ounces periodically. This was mentioned in an early 90's issue of Subaru TIPS newsletter. For auto trans, you can try installing the FWD (front wheel drive) fuse to see if it makes any difference. If the above did not help, then you may need to have the AWD transfer clutch replaced or at least serviced. For manual transmission of that era, there isn't much that can be done short of replacing the AWD viscous coupling in the gearbox. Other torque bind causes: improper towing (i.e. only two wheels off the ground on a dolly), running on a soft/flat tire for a period of time, getting a flat tire and replacing just that one tire while the others are worn, replacing just the front or rear tires, etc.

Need more specifics, mainly what were the code numbers read? What dash lights stayed on? Elaborate on shifting wrong?

If you have some basic sockets and good extensions it is easy to replace. The vehicle may suffer lack of power and reduced fuel economy if it has the CEL for the knock sensor. Also the code just means an electrical issue has been detected in the knock sensor circuit - it doesn't necessarily mean the knock sensor itself is bad (though that is typically the culprit).

? Coolant flush and cooling system inspection Yes at least check the hoses. If you replace the hoses, the Subaru OEM hoses are not very expensive and are top quality. Since you had the water pump replaced, the coolant was at least drained then. Don't know whether new coolant was put in or they reused what was drained out. Note SUBARU recommends against coolant flushing machines. ? Fuel filter Looks like it was done a few thousand miles ago so should be good? ? Air filter (need to check) Also cheap and easy to replace so if you don't know when it was done last go for it. ? Transmission/gear oil checks Yes I would replace the diff gear oils and the ATF if you don't know when done last....if ever. ? Axle shaft checks Easy to check the boots visually. ? Wheel bearing lubrication check (huh?) Yes I've seen this one on the list too. You have to extract the axle from the hub and maybe pull the hub to check it though, which is a bit of a pain just for a 'check'. http://www.subaru.com/owners/schedules/index.jsp?navid=SCHEDULE_2003 Also, spark plugs are 30k mile replacement interval, so those are probably due for replacement again now.

That should be a solid vehicle provided it has been maintained properly. The price does seem a bit high even being in soob country. If it has calif. emissions, the timing belt interval is 105k miles or 105 months (so if it hasn't been changed yet it is due to be replaced because of time like nipper said). If it is not calif. emissiosn, the interval is 60k miles or 60 months, in which case it is overdue on both accounts if it hasn't been replaced yet. That would be an interference 2.2L also so if the belt breaks bent valves, etc.

Timing belt is overdue for replacement, if not done already.

Your setup (ej25 sohc phase ii) doesn't have the ton of little hoses connecting to the bottom of the air intake snorkus like earlier soobs did. There are only the two breather hoses from the valve covers, and those connect to the bottom of the airbox itself, the part that attaches to the throttle body (which you wouldn't disturb even changing the air filter). That other boot you describe does sound like the inner tie rod end boot. Do it look like this?

Ey ya go mate! I've a '94 too. One test might be put 'er in neutral set parking brake, if assistant available maybe have clutch held in, then put the key in run. Then using a jumper, apply +12V to the starter solenoid. If she cranks, the starter isn't the problem at least. If it doesn't crank, the starter may be having issues.

mmm...not sure, does this pic answer the question? 2000 Outback - spark plug tubes penetrate valve cover 96 Legacy 2.2L - spark plug tubes just above the top of the picture.

I went with the Subaru OEM plug wire set SOA430Q119 for my '00obw, it was $37. I had no issues with any wires not being long enough? Note that if you apply antisieze to the spark plug threads, I have seen in the soob service manual it says to reduce torque by 1/3. Replacing plugs on the phase II 2.5L sohc's is not that difficult. At least not compared to some of the other vehicles with transverse mount engines on the road today! Good luck with those. That's why they have to say 100,000 mile plug intervals, so the warranty is up when they need to be changed, since some need engine rocking to get at them all.

haha no doubt the victim of some Six Sigma / Lean / Kaizen project or some combination thereof!!!!!

hehe...no problem. Sorry I didn't have a chance to get any dimensional measurements though... :-p

Yes, one question would be....was the 'whoops' more of a... Oh man that is really going to leave a scratch in my paint...or Oh man I hope no one notices this gaping hole in the concrete block of this grocery store....

On that era one reason Subaru recommended shorter plug change intervals was to help prevent spark plugs from siezing in the cylinder head, which is/was somewhat common on vehicles saying 'dont worry dude, plugs good for 100,000 miles..oh by the way you'll be out of warranty when you need to change them.'

Ahhhhh ok now I get it So did you drop a TT in there yet?

hehe..hmm, ok, not sure exactly what you mean. This is a US spec/LHD '96 legacy brighton? Here's a nice blurry pic of the whole underhood.....

hehe yes that would make a nice roadtrip from Buffalo NY to Tacoma!. There was a great write up about Delta Cams in a recent issue of Subiesport or Sport Compact Car. If I can find it maybe I'll scan it in and post it, I learned a lot!