porcupine73

I think a lot of it depends on how tight the bolt is in there. On my '00obw I used a chain wrench to hold the pulley and a breaker bar with 3' pipe on it and really lay into it to get it loose. On my '96 I just blocked the flywheel with a small pry bar through the access hole near the throttle body and it backed right off with little effort (which means it was probably loosening up or wasn't torqued enough the previous time it was off). I haven't had much luck with strap wrenches, they just seem to have way too much stretch to them for the crank pulley and cam sprockets.

If you have a MAF, you may have to unplug it to get it to idle with the IACV intake hose unhooked.

Welcome! Generally for the soob the flashing cel is when cylinder misfire is detected, then it stays on steady. There are other things that can make the cel flash. You could also have multiple codes stored, so yes reading the codes would be a good idea. The misfire can be valve issues (ie not closing completely or carboned up really bad), non ngk spark plugs, plug wire issues, sometimes coil pack, injector, once in a while ignitor, etc.

I'm sure the tool can be homemade if you have the tools, like a good press brake and welder would be useful. Special Tool 499977000 http://subaru.spx.com/detail.asp?partid=499977000

If you specifically want the special tool for holding the crank pulley, you can get it from subaru.spx.com IIRC it is about $100. You don't have to have that tool though; there are many other options.

Yes that o-ring is fairly straightforward replacement. You don't need any other sealant there, just the o-ring. Also there is the cam cap at the RH rear of the engine as well that takes another of the same o-rings.

Hi. Common causes would be alignment issue, strut worn out, suspension component(s) worn. Obviously you know it is not a good idea to put just one new tire on unless all the tires still measure within 1/4" circumference of each other after replacement.

I can't think of anything about the hub that would make it matter left or right. If you are talking about the wheel bearing housings, yes those are different left and right.

Part # comparison says yes! 28469FE000 HUB, REAR WHEEL LEFT OR RIGHT FOR 1993-2001 IMPREZAS (EXCEPT 2000 model TS or L Sedan, Brighton Wagon or L Coupe) 28469FE000 HUB, REAR WHEEL LEFT OR RIGHT FOR 1990-1999 LEGACYS ALL

Since they were rebooted previously, it is possible the bands were not made tight enough. Also I saw this on endwrench, though for a '98: Grease Leaking From Inner Axle Joints If you encounter a 1998 model year Subaru vehicle that has grease leaking out of the inner axle joint along the transmission splined stub shaft, the situation can be repaired using the following procedure: • Remove and disassemble both inner axle joints. • Clean all the old grease from the joints. • Inspect the freeze plug that covers the splined shaft area in the base of the inner joints to be sure that the plug has not fallen out. • It is not necessary to replace the axles if the freeze plug in the axle has become displaced and cannot be reinstalled. Replacement of the inner DOJ assembly is all that is necessary. •If you reinstall the plug, do not block the air bleed hole located at a point around the outer circumference of the seal plug. If the air bleed hole is blocked, there is a possibility that the axle boots may be damaged. • Install new grease P/N 28093TA000. (This is the grease used on 1997 model year vehicles). • Reassemble. Production changes were made to subsequent models to remedy this condition.

If it is hard to remove, the common issue is rust between the pulley and crank snout. Even a little bit of rust will make it hard to get off. On my '96 it was like this. I let some Kroil seep in there, and then kept tapping it with a plastic faced hammer and eventually she let loose.

Right on, 2.2 Liter Engine Enhancements Beginning in the 1997 Model Year, the 2.2 liter engine for 1997 Legacy and Impreza models has had internal and external changes that yield an approximately 10% increase in power and 3% increase in fuel economy. Accomplishing this involves many factors, one of which is engine friction reduction. The piston, a major source of engine friction, has been coated with a friction reducing agent called Molybenum. This thin coating not only allows smoother travel through the cylinder, but also reduces cylinder wall scuffing. The skirt of the piston has been reshaped and the overall weight has been reduced by approximately 100 grams. Compression ratio has been increased to 9.7 to 1 by reshaping the crown of the piston. This eliminates the clearance that was available between the piston at TDC and the fully opened valve. Piston pin offset has been changed to 0.5 mm. Piston to cylinder wall clearance has been reduced by increasing the piston diameter. Another source of high engine friction is the valve train. Hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) are always in contact with the valves. The hydraulic pressure of the lash adjuster must be overcome during operation and during the most critical time of engine start. To overcome this situation and to contribute to the total reduction of friction loss, 1997 and later SOHC engines have solid valve adjusters. The scheduled service of this valve train is set at 100,000 miles. SOHC engines now use an adjustment screw to adjust valve clearance.

Hi mountaingoatgruff! What's the difference between the neoprene and saturated nitrile timing belts? why are nitrile belts designated ca parts? does it matter which one i use? i live in ca but my car is originally from wa. Are those aftermarket timing belts? I haven't seen the OEM ones list the material of construction, though there are different OEM part #'s for calif and non-calif belts. 1997 Federal emissions 2.2L has a timing belt interval of 60k miles/60 months http://www.subaru.com/owners/schedules/schedules.jsp?schedulepage=1997myfed.html 1997 Calif emissions 2.2L has a timing belt interval of 105k miles / 105 months http://www.subaru.com/owners/schedules/schedules.jsp?schedulepage=1997myca.html You can find out with your VIN# from a dealer if yours is a calif emissions or not. Or you can look for a sticker saying it is a calif. emissions somewhere around the drivers door pillars. 2. do i need to replace the tensioner or anything else when i replace the timing belt or are those idlers still trustworthy at this age with an interference engine? dumb question? i hope not, that stuff is expensive!! You typically should at least replace the geared/toothed idler near the water pump, and might as well do the water pump too while you're in there if it is original. That era needs the oil pump removed, screws checked for backing out, new o-ring, and reseal to the engine. oil pump sealant. 3. is there anywhere that i can buy the cam sprocket wrench for my car and if so how much/where? Yes subaru.spx.com ; Lisle also makes something that might work. See --> http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84714 4. the lights for my air/heat control and my shifter aren't working, but all the rest work fine as well as the dimmer. easy bulb change or bigger problem? Yes it seems most soobs of that era those bulbs are burned out. there's probably a thread on replacement in the USRM on this board. 5. i've read the published fuel efficiency ratings for this car, but what should i realistically expect out of it on 89octane (mid grade) with 180k and a complete tuneup? Varies widely because there are so many variables. Figure roughly 20-27mpg.

Good morning. Ok I remember to check my idle '96 legacy 2.2L auto trans (I can't remember is yours a manual trans?), after a 33 mile drive for warmup, all accessories etc off, it was ~700rpm in park and ~650rpm stopped in drive. I forgot to look at the vacuum gauge though. I had a picture of my underhood sticker with the idle range but I can't find it right now. Let's see the service manual says....... Idle Speed - unloaded 700 ±100 rpm (With Headlights, Heater Fan, Rear Defroster, Radiator Fan, Air Conditioning, etc. "OFF") Idle speed, loaded 850 ±50 rpm (Turn Air Conditioning (A/C) Switch to "ON" and operate Compressor for at least one minute before measurement.)

Hi. Wow threebond's web site has tons of info on there. I had never heard of threebond before working on Subaru's. Yes the ultra grey is quite a bit cheaper! I think threebond sells a lot of product in Japan. The info from Subaru about the sealants is here, where threebond 1215 and permatex ultra grey and 3M T-3 silicone are listed: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/06RecMayEWInside.pdf Threebond lists 1215 as a 'nonsolvent type silicone-based', not as an 'anaerobic type'. They do list some as anaerobic such as 1110B and 1130, but not 1215.

Hm yes I don't know what it entails on the '07 sedan; on my soobs its simply two phillips drive screws to release the bulb holder?

Alright, 1" drive now we're talking!

Yes I'm not sure. Maybe it is condensation. "Metal pipes dip below the throttle cables. Condensation may form in this area, causing corrosion on the inside of the metal pipes. If this corrosion is allowed to get bad enough, it may block the flow of vacuum through the pipes and trigger a DTC P0400. Remove the vacuum hoses from the pipes, then blow through the pipes with compressed air to make certain they are fully open."

hehe I knew I forgot to do something this morning.......ok I will have to check it out on the way home!

Yes that is the egr backpressure transducer. There's a good article on endwrench about the P0400 code - http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Emissions.pdf It says "The transducer can be checked with a pressure pump, but there are no specifications for exactly when and how much it should open for a specific pressure."

Sounds good. I guess if you had a big enough leak it could. It doesn't take much of a leak at idle to make the rpms go up. When on the throttle the ECU can compensate by altering fuel trim. On my '96 last year I noticed the idle was quite a bit higher than usual, but no other driving issues, and it was the tubing I had run for my vacuum gauge cracked.

What is the code # you read?

Wow. What size drive were they (ie 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" etc)?

That is a 7/32" Mayhew pin punch. Do not use a 1/4" pin punch, there is a good chance of getting it stuck.

I like the stick or gel styles too, they seem easier to work with and keep where you want it. When I replace an oil pump, I usually put a little of the loctite green where the screw heads meet the case; supposedly it wicks down in there.