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Everything posted by porcupine73
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The Subaru recommended sealant for the oil pump mating surface is Threebond 1215, which is not an anaerobic sealant. It is a 'solvent' type sealant. Subaru also lists Permatex ultra-grey #599 (and also 3M T-3 silicone) as 'equivalents'. I'm not saying anaerobic sealants won't work perfectly fine or isn't the better/safer choice, but if we're talking about what Subaru recommends, it is definitely not anaerobic. Full Three Bond article 6 MB, has lots of interesting info about anaerobic sealants.
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Hi, here's some typical loctite directions. These happen to be for Loctite 242 (blue/medium strength), which does happen to be an anaerobic cure. Directions for use/For Assembly 1. For best results, clean all surfaces (external and internal) with a LOCTITE® cleaning solvent and allow to dry. 2. If the material is an inactive metal or the cure speed is too slow, spray all threads with Activator 7471™ or 7649™ and allow to dry. 3. Shake the product thoroughly before use. 4. To prevent the product from clogging in the nozzle, do not allow the tip to touch metal surfaces during application. 5. For Thru Holes, apply several drops of the product onto the bolt at the nut engagement area. 6. For Blind Holes, apply several drops of the product downthe internal threads to the bottom of the hole. 7. For Sealing Applications, apply a 360° bead of productto the leading threads of the male fitting, leaving the firstthread free. Force the material into the threads tothouroughly fill the voids. For bigger threads and voids, adjust product amount accordingly and apply a 360° beadof product on the female threads also. 8. Assemble and tighten as required.
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Hi. 1. The engines are similar but they are not identical. In '97 the 2.2L stopped using hydraulic lash adjusters and had some other changes to increase power and efficiency. 2. Trans are similar as well; not sure if they're swappable. If you swap trans you have to check the final drive ratio to match your rear diff. 3. The struts might fit, but the springs are different.
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If you decide to use brake cleaner, at least go with non-chlorinated. Those typically just contain xylene, toluene, acetone, mineral spirits, etc. Chlorine in the engine is not typically a good idea, which is also why Duralube is not a product I would recommend - chlorinated paraffins which are typically used in metal machining processes.
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Sounds good! The thing I'm not sure about that Hylomar for say oil pump case sealing anyway is that application is not exactly a remove and reinstall frequently type application, so I'd be more tempted to go with the good 'ol anaerobic sealant on that. Wow $12 for an ounce..... On the oil pump screws I usually use the loctite green/wicking type.
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What do you guys think of this stuff? It sounds interesting: Permatex® Hylomar® Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant This non-chlorinated gasketing and sealing compound has been specially formulated to be non-setting and non-hardening at elevated temperatures. It withstands rapid changes in temperature and remains flexible and tacky even at high temperatures, allowing repeated disassembly and reassembly in high performance applications. This no-run formula seals surface imperfections on machined flanges and is vibration resistant. Temperature range of -60°F to +500°F (-50°C to +260°C); resists engine fluids, including water, coolant, gasoline, lubricating oils, kerosene and some refrigerants. Also possesses dust and moisture proofing properties. Suggested Applications: Thermostat housings, differential coverings, hydraulic drives and motors, gearbox assemblies, intake manifold assemblies, oil, fuel and water pump housings and seals, fuel injectors and fuel pumps, transmission and torque converter seals
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Here's the permatex ones anyway..... http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/anaerobic_gasket_makers.htm ========================================================== Permatex® Anaerobic Flange Sealant Flexible, gasketing material for use on rigid machined flanges with less than .015" gap. OEM approved – use where OE’s specify “anaerobic” gasket (cures in the absence of air). Withstands temperatures to 300°F (149°C). Eliminates preformed, pre-cut, paper, rubber and cork gaskets. Flexes with flanges that move in service. Suggested Applications: Water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans, transmission case covers, transaxle casings, engine cases, timing covers, and o-ring replacement ========================================================== Permatex® Anaerobic Gasket Maker OEM specified. Noncorrosive gasketing material designed primarily for use on aluminum, iron, and steel flanged mating surfaces. Ideal for on-the-spot and emergency repairs, or when a conventional gasket is unavailable. Fills gaps up to .015" and cures to a solvent-resistant seal that will not tear or decay during service. Parts disassemble easily even after extended service and old gasket material can be removed in minutes with a simple putty knife. Suggested Applications: Water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans, transmission case covers, transaxle casings, o-ring replacement ========================================================== Permatex® High Temperature Anaerobic Flange Sealant A high temperature sealant specially engineered for making or dressing gaskets in rigid assemblies. Able to withstand temperatures to 400°F (204°C), fills gaps up to 0.020” (primed) and permits clamping loads to be maintained for strong, leakproof assemblies. Suggested Applications: Water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans, transmission case covers, transaxle casings, timing covers, and o-ring replacement ==========================================================
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Hi. Yes the permatex ultra-grey pretty much any parts store has it, napa, pepboys, carquest, etc. I think I might try anaerobic next time since it does seem safer and a better choice. That sealants chart is from a http://www.endwrench.com article. The oil filter might also have been defective allowing flow to bypass the filter all the time. Some of the cheapo oil filters bypass setup leaves a bit to be desired. Another thing I have noticed is a lot of aftermarket oil filters the bypass opens at maybe 8-12psid, whereas on the Subaru OEM filter it is like 22psid.
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Hi FrankDux and welcome! It does sound like a potential alternator issue. Are your battery cable connections and alternator connections tight and the alternator/ps belt is in good shape? What voltage do you read at the battery terminals with the engine idling? Also yes if your battery is low, it's not a bad idea to let it slow charge (1-2 amps) overnight before starting; no sense over burdening the alternator. Car starting batteries do not like being discharged too far especially not multiple times, so it may have spanked your battery as well. For ODBII, codes starting with P1 and P2 are manufacturer and model specific, so descriptions found in various lists/books/generic code readers might not be right for your vehicle. When I look up P1103 in a typical soob ODBII list it say "P1103 Pressure Sources Switching Solenoid Valve Circuit".
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What rpm is your idle at? Maybe it is within spec but just seems low? That endwrench article is good, but that is not the style IACV that evothis has. The article is for later soobs using the MAP speed density setup, where the IACV intake is actually at the top of the throttle body right before the throttle butterfly, which is completely different than the earlier vehicles with the IACV having an intake hose coming of the air intake snorkus.
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Permatex ultra grey works fine, at least it has for me. It is on Subaru's list of adhesives as alternative to some of the threebond sealants they use. Anaerobic is nice stuff and should work very well; I think Subaru lists the rtv's because they might be a little easier/more forgiving in their use? I think some automakers say 'no rtv/silicone/etc/etc' because they are paranoid about emissions warranty. Maybe then if they can spot anything like that as having been used they can deny having to pay for o2 sensor replacement, etc. I think 99obw posted before about what happens when silicone gets into the intake, that it basically forms glass on the tip of the o2 sensor and then it no workie anymore?