porcupine73

Also see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62563&page=2

Ah nice pic skip of the actual unit! hehe the pirate icon I got from buffaloscooby.com

Hm....good point nipper! So many gauges and gadgets, so little space! Even Night Rider would be envious!

wow skip that is awesome and a great idea! I read the other thread. Very interesting!

Yes that is a great idea, I do that often. In control systems that action is called feed-forward control. Like you know what is coming up, so you let the system know that so it can preact, rather than simply react.

I believe the trans shifts into 3rd when the ABS activates. That would be true AFIAK. I think it would be even more prone to downshifting then. When the cruise is on, the trans holds higher gears moreso than when its off. I don't know why yours would act differently. It might be simply because the tuning of the cruise control is poor. It reacts too slowly to a speed drop when hitting the hill, then tends to freak out and suddenly yank the throttle way open to compensate. It is poor tuning of the control loop during engineering. hehe maybe an anti-sport shift as it will want to hold higher gears moreso than with your foot on the throttle.

Right on, make sure the belt for the a/c was reinstalled. When you're standing in front of the car looking at the engine, the a/c compressor is the accessory on the right near the battery. If the belt is there, the connector to the a/c compressor might be unhooked so you could check that too. Or the system may have a leak or lost pressure. That could be due to the HG work. Typically you just swing the a/c compressor out of the way so that it does not have to be depressurized. In doing so a line may have gotten damaged, or maybe it was just unhooked and not repressurized.

thar she be

Yes, I have noticed two pricing issues with walk-in sales with my two local Subaru dealers. First, they mark up even Subaru's list price. Then they usually double their own marked up list price. That means a $10 part you pay $25. And local dealers often don't stock a lot of parts it seems. So I order all online except in emergency.

Hi alaskanjer and I have a '96 brighton too. I haven't noticed any performance shoes per se, though if you look on tirerack.com they might have something. I would probably go with a Subaru OEM rear shoe kit, because I think that comes will new springs and such. All my hardware is rusted. I think by 'low end' we mean they don't all the options other soobs have, like power windows, power locks, rear radio speakers, and well of course rear discs. If you want to upgrade, right you'd probably want to swap the rear drums for discs. Also the front calipers are single piston on the brightons. I got a set of front and rear calipers and brackets from a '96 outback but never used them...yet.

Yah that could be that somewhat silly 'hill descent assist', where if you are going downhill (ie no throttle) over a certain speed and even touch the brake, it automatically downshifts to 3rd to help you slow down. Another case of the machine thinking it's smarter than you.

Seriously? My '96 2.2l is exempted from that test in NY at least since '96 soobs reset all the I/M's to not ready or not tested every time turned off?

haha nothing wrong with overbuilding!

Ah ok cool, sorry about that. I have a 2.2L '96 too...here's the troubleshooting procedure for P1702. Rebuilding trans sounds interesting. I haven't even pulled an engine yet.... Godspeed to you in figuring this out!

hehe..if the tcu doesn't control shifting then what does it do? Sorry what year and model soob was this again?

Hm interesting! Did you make that? Looks good!

Nice lathe and spacers skip! Here's a pic of the oft limiting factor - top/side of tire to bottom of strut spring seat. Another possible issue (moreso with wider tires) is rubbing in the front in turns. This is '96 legacy 2.2L with outback struts and p225/60r16 tires. They rub in the turns. The tires show no odd wear, but look at this spot it wore into the wheel well (the candle flame looking spot above the orange jackstand) Another limiting factor is wheel well clearance. On this '96 Legacy with the p225/60r16, there is simply not enough wheel well clearance to go any taller (rear tire to edge of wheel well by bottom of rear door)

hehe....I thought front o2 at first too (that's why my post is edited ) Not sure if this rear o2 has a heater. I have a new OEM rear o2 for this vehicle I could check out to see how many wires it has. It is either 2 or 3 iirc) (the bosch I mentioned earlier was the front, it was 3 wires IIRC).

It could be the connections since it says circuit malfunction. Of course the sensor itself could be open/short/etc causing 'circuit malfunction'. I have a '96 2.2L too which I got before I knew about Subaru dealers selling parts online, so I bought a bosch universal solderit yourself (I could have had a new OEM with the right connector for the same price!). It has been working ok for the last few years though.... DTC PO136: REAR OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (R02-V) The rear o2 sensor is the one in/near the rear cat. You can see it here in the top centerish of this pic (though this is '00 obw)

Race shops usually carry redline. You can also get it from http://www.summitracing.com or http://www.subaruparts.com and lots of other places. I like amsoil svo 75w-140 for my soob diffs. A little extra edge of protection. I wonder if maybe your previous post about some soob diffs getting chewed up is due to inadequate lube protection? Some pickup truck makers and others have come out with tsb's saying to replace the factory fill 75w-90 with a 75w-140.

I think it depends on your outlook. I replaced all that stuff on my '00obw too. If you do plant to keep the vehicle another 105k miles I think why not just do it all now. Just a note on the idlers 13073AA190, 13073AA142 (they're the two idlers on the left in the pic below) - you will probably get two of the same idler (double row, black), don't worry, the red single row bearing idler has been superceded by using the same double row black in both positions. Tensioner:

Hello and congratulations! Maintenance schedule --> http://www.subaru.com/owners/schedules/schedules.jsp?schedulepage=2003myfed.html Yes as already mentioned you must replace the timing belt now if it has not been done yet. I know you said the previous owner said "everything recommended was done" but I would triple check it to make sure that included the timing belt because if it wasn't done and it breaks wellllll $$$$$$$ There are a number of other things that should be done at that same time inlcluding valve clearance check & adjustment and valve cover gasket set, water pump and gasket, thermostat and gasket, replace geared/toothed idler near water pump and at least check the other idlers and tensioner, cam seals, front crank seal, reseal oil pump. It is prudent to do all these when the timing belt is done.

Other Engine Modifications (2.2L 1997) The intake manifold has been reshaped to increase the airflow mass and speed, contributing to improved low and mid engine speed operation. Components located on the intake manifold have been relocated as compared to the 1996 models. EGR Solenoid, Purge Control Solenoid, etc. 1999 2.2 Liter Phase 2 Engine Enhancements (from endwrench article H-4 and H-6 service): All 2.2 liter engine for 1999 are the Phase 2 design. The 2.2 liter Phase 2 engines are a SOHC design, with a newly-designed cylinder head. Changes in the 2.2 liter Phase 2 engines are as follows: • The engine and transmission are fastened with six bolts and two studs. • The thrust bearing has been moved to the number 5 position. • The oil groove in the number 1 and 3 have been changed to supply additional lubrication to the crank journal. Additional Phase 2 Engine Features • The cylinder head is a two-rocker shaft, solid type valve system with roller followers. • The valves are positioned at a larger angle than previous model years. The intake valves are positioned 23 degrees off-center with the exhaust valves positioned 20 degrees off-center. Prior model year engines utilized a 15-degree positioning angle. • Head gasket thickness is 0.7 mm. • The intake rocker arms are marked so they are correctly placed on the rocker shaft when servicing. An IN1 or IN2 will be embossed on each rocker arm. As viewed from the front of the engine the Number 1 intake valve of ach cylinder and the number 2 intake valve have an IN1 marked and IN2 arked rocker arm that mates with it. New IN1 rocker arms can also be identified by a Green painted mark on the top of the rocker arm. The IN2 rocker arms have a white mark. Proper positioning is maintained through the use of a wave washer located between the rocker shaft arm and rocker arm shaft support. • The camshaft is secured to the cylinder head with the camcase. An oil passage in the cylinder head provides the passageway in the camcase with oil that leads to the intake rocker shaft. Oil from the camshaft is collected on the opposite side of the passageway leading to the intake rocker shaft to provide oil to the exhaust rocker shaft. Note: Cylinder head and camcase must be replaced together (line bored). • The sparkplug pipe is pressed into the cylinder head and is not serviceable. If it becomes damaged the cylinder head must be replaced. The seals installed onto the ends of the sparkplug pipes seal against the valve covers and should be replaced when the valve cover is removed. • Pistons on the 2.2 liter engines have a 0.5 mm offset with the engine having a compression ratio of 10.0 to 1. The horsepower has increased to 142 hp @ 5600 RPM. Maximum torque is149 ft. lbs @ 3600 RPM. • Camshaft sprockets are constructed of a resin type material with a metal key pressed into the sprocket for maintaining proper sprocket to shaft orientation.

also found in the article The roller rocker cam follower system that was introduced on the 1.8L Impreza engines, is installed on all 1995 model year and later 2.2 liter engines. The roller assemblies are not serviceable separately, but the rocker arms may be serviced as individual units. The carbon composition head gaskets with integrated o-rings are interchangeable from left to right on 1990 to 1994 N/A engines only.