porcupine73

Oh yes wow sorry about that! This pic is of my '96 2.2L.

If it turns out to be engine coolant temp sensor causing cold start problems, it is actually probably not getting enough fuel when starting. i.e. if ECU thinks coolant temp is 130F and it's really 20F ECU will not be injecting enough fuel. Then you crank and crank and crank and eventually enough fuel starts to build up in the cylinders for it to start. You may smell raw fuel though as it is injecting fuel just not igniting and some will come out the exhaust, thus seeming like it is flooded.

It's hard to say how long it could go. If it's noisy it's probably the bearings. If the thing siezes up it will probably break or burn through the belt which means you will also lose power steering. Here's some pics of what your new alt will look like! I just put one of these alts in on my '96 last month. 23700AA34ARA

If it is not the viscous style lsd and needs the friction modifier, maybe you want to try the Subaru gear oil? Or maybe this stuff is for the STI's...

For daily driver use in a mechanically sound n/a engine where the engine oil reguarly gets up to operating temp (i.e. 180F) (not a lot of short trips or cold cold weather driving), you can probably get the 10-20k mile oil change interval on that oil. Generally the first time you try to do it you'd do oil analysis to make sure the oil is holding up in your application and not getting excessive wear metals (which could point to an engine issue), etc. I've been doing ~20k change intervals on the amsoil 5w-30 hdd diesel oil, but I am also running the engine oil bypass filter as well. The 18k mile uoa looked very good.

Could be a number of things; one to maybe check out is engine coolant temp sensor. If you can get a scangauge or some other scantool in the ODBII port, you can see what the ECU is reading as temp when engine is cold after sitting overnight. If it seems out of range (like it's 20F out and the thing is reading 70F) you know it's time to change 'er out. Knock sensors can cause odd power issues, maybe not only when cold though.... How many miles/months on the current timing belt?

Excellent, just need to get some supplies. Notes to self.... OEM fitting to brake line hose is M10x1.0 (same as brake caliper banjo bolt) with a thread engagement of at least 8mm. OEM brake lines are approx. 4.86mm OD with the greenish coating. This means they are probably the 4.75mm od which is approx 3/16" od brake line which is very common. Not sure if the fittings use the what seem to be called ISO 37 deg. bubble flare, or the SAE 45 deg. double flare. Here's the mating surface of an old flex hose brake line: This site has some interesting info and possibly products of interest: http://www.fedhillusa.com

Just for fun I punched the part # into google and exactly one hit came up http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/partnumbers.html 87022AA310 4EAT turbo cruise control unit

Not sure about cost, but it is a bucket&shim setup. So probably valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals and valve cover bolt washers (valve cover gasket kit), plus however long it takes them to do it. The shim kit I think has like 94 shim sizes.

Hi courtesy of https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html it just says 'IGN WIRE SET 2.5L' Lookup at http://www.subarupartsforyou.com says for '98 2.5L SOA430Q122 WIRE SET, IGNITION FOR 1998-1999 LEGACY OUTBACKS ALL

Hi. What brand spark plugs and what brand spark plug wires were used? I assume the clearance was tight on the valve that was replaced. There are an assortment of 94 shims available to adjust the clearance on that bucket&shim style lifter.

Sounds good! I just noticed the smell in my '96 today but I just replaced the axle this weekend. That's what those pics are from. Those pics are fresh out of the box from this weekend, I've never posted those before. I have posted my '00obw pics before though, I used an MWE axle on that one which worked fine; thought I would try an OEM this time seems to be working well too but is like twice the price.

Hi. I have a '96 with the 4eat too. It calls for Dexron IIE/III. You won't find fluids saying that anymore though since Dexron is a GM spec and they are not renewing licenses for the older Dexron forumulations anymore. So you have to look for a product that might say 'also for applications formerly calling for Dexron II/III etc'. Or you can use the newer Subaru/Idemitsu HP-ATF but of course that's going to cost more......

Sometimes before the boot completely rips open it will just spew a little grease and the initial tear is not obvious. Sometimes on a poorly rebuilt axle the grease can leak around the boot band clamps too. Also unless you spend some time wiping up all the grease that spewed from the first break, the smell can linger for a long time. Even if you do wipe it up it still smells I have noticed because some of the grease gets in between the cat heat shields and stuff where you can't clean it out. It took a few months to go away on my '00obw even though I wiped up the grease. Yes that is a unique smell.... Also have you looked at the other axle, maybe one of its boots has split? I just had that boot tear on my '96 and replaced it with a Subaru oem reman axle...all the grease all over the cat heat shield is going to smell for a while.

Also possibility of air trapped in the system, though I don't think that would give the symptom you are describing....

Yes rock on white wagons FTW! My '94 L: A lift option might be Outback struts&springs.

For anecdotal evidence I can let you know how my two Subaru reman alts fare. First is for '96 Legacy, been running for ~2 months seems to be ok so far (had a napa in there when I bought it). Second is for '00 Outback, not yet installed, original suddenly went to 16V output.

I found some more pics of the H6 timing chain stuff in an endwrench article:

Well, new gen sohc '97 and up anyway. The dohc 2.5L '97+ I think has the bucket&shim style lifters with 94 shim sizes. The '90 Legacy 2.2L has the hydraulic lash adjusters. Actually that engine probably has the large HLA's.

Oh that's cool. Maybe they bought like 10000 of them at once and got a good deal on them. Do they come in the little baggie with the Subaru part # and stuff?

haha o man I hear you on the Sears thing. The last few years their right after thanksgiving sales have been pretty amazing. Like half the price of the best sears sale price I've ever seen on certain items. However their web site crashes from the load. I've ordered after the fact and explained I tried to order during the sale but the web site crashed (which it did), and then like two months later get a refund for differnece in the sale price. Exceleent!!!

Haha right on! Even 'sale' is optional if other excuses are available.... thanks for the tip about using the stiff wire to route the brake line path before bending the line. Good idea! I have a tubing bender, haven't bent much tube though.....

Yes I know I have seen where soob has said the H6 timing chain is 'good for the [useful] life of the engine' but didn't say the mileage. The limiting factor there I think is the water pump. Also I think soob went timing chain on the H6 to save a little space.

Right on, just to be clear, Subaru OEM parts can be had only from Subaru dealers. There are tons of places online and even locally including your local autozone pepboys etc where you can find aftermarket parts.

Great thanks for all the info everyone! Two questions.... (1) does anyone know what the Subaru brake pipe internal diameter size is? like 4mm 4.5mm, etc. (2) Per that flaring article linked earlier, does anyone know if the Soob brake line fittings are the 'bubble flare' or 'double flare 45 deg'? Thanks so much!!!! I am feeling a lot better about being able to do this. I need to get the flaring kit, supplies etc....just what I needed another excuse to buy more tools!