ocei77
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Everything posted by ocei77
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Wite-Out works well also. Belt direction doesn't matter, just the tooth count marks. O.
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^+1 The only caveat is rotating the lower cams. The top cams rotate clockwise, but you have to rotate the lower cams counter cw to line the marks up. O.
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of the six Suby's I've been around with 188-239k miles I've only had one pump go on me. 98 IOB with a little over 200k. Would leak out of the weep hole and got progressively worse. I changed it before it failed completely. O.
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Final Drive Ratio 3.90 , 4.11 etc O.
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If you don't have the thickness needed, advise. I probably have the one you need. I can send it. No cost. O.
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Home Depot and Lowes have it. I prefer Lowes Kobalt brand. Better warranty. O.
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Look up the fsm in the New Gen FAQ sticky. 2nd page under my name. In the ignition section there is a test for the coil etc. In the future you need to give info on your car. Year engine etc. O.
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a search would help. There is a special Cometic HG that is designed for this application. All depends on sohc or dohc 2.5 and the compression ratio you'll end up with and the goal desired. O.
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Did you use this method? .
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Thanks for the reply. After more research on opposed forces, it seems that the DS exhaust is once piece from the manifold to and through the cat at the y. The cat fitting is either swaged or welded under the shield. ala the front cat on the BL series. So it seems I'll have to remove the DS manifold and the bolts that joins the left and right exhaust sections.to get this replaced. I just thought I was missing something that I knew you would know of. Thanks again. O.
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Trying to help a friend replace his rusted exhaust. The cat at the Y has a busted seam where the flange used to be which now has a 3 ft section of straight pipe with u bolts. I have someone who I can get the cat from. (The 3rd cat at the Y). I see that it only has one flange from the PS, while the DS seems to be a push fit. How is it secured, or would it be better to just get the whole exhaust from the manifolds back. TIA. O.
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10 years or 100K miles. Whichever comes first. This means all the idlers also. O.
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http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-rear-drum-disc-conversion-143569.html?t=143569&highlight=Front+axle+replace See above link. O.
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Misread. Ignore Disc Convert.txt
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next is craigslist part out. O.
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Legacys and junkyards. O.
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Check cars101.com O.
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Once turned the belt marks will not line up again, but the pulley and crank marks should be the same and/or maybe a 1/2-1 tooth off. O.
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54.5 passenger side to crank 51 driver side. For fsm, 2nd page of New Gen FAQ sticky under my name are links. O.
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That's what we're here for, to help each other. O.
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you don't have to pay. Go to 2nd page of New Gen FAQ sticky under my name there is a link to all Subaru models starting with jdm.........This has the BL series you are looking for. O.
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Make sure the cams bolts are tight first. Remove belt and compress tensioner. Reinstall tensioner and realign belt. Push down slightly on belt to hold position and release tensioner. All should stay in alignment at this point. Put large screwdriver into flywheel teeth, so it butts against the inspection hole. Have some else hold the brake while you tighten the crank bolt. O.
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More than likely it's the front seal, not the oil pump itself. You can remove just the seal (careful not to scratch the shaft) and replace. it would take another half hour or so to pull the pump. Check the screws on the back, clean and dry both surfaces and reinstall. Now would be a good time to replace the t belt etc if its due to be done soon. Get the o ring for the pump from the dealer. Cost me less than $3 two weeks ago. You need a good sealant. I prefer anaerobic, for it doesn't set up in air. The FSM is available. In New Gen FAQ sticky. 2nd page under my name. To give yourself room to work, all you need to remove are the fans, not the radiator. O.
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95 2.2 oil pump
ocei77 replied to dp213's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
replace the o ring and front crank seal, use sealant on the pump. Don't overdo it on the sealant. Torque spec on the bolts is only 4.7 ft lbs. O.
