ocei77
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Timing covers
ocei77 replied to dp213's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Once you delve into the engine work, it becomes a matter of personal preference. In this case, I am one of those that feel it's there for a reason, so I keep mine on. O. -
Looks good. Wouldn't hurt to verify the FD ratio is 4.11 O.
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- differential
- transmission
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Check opposedforces.com. From what I see the diiferentials are the same from 98-07 in Forester, 98-99 RS Impreza 96 up to at least 04 in GT Legacys and OB, including those with auto. Double check my eyesight. O.
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Any Subaru 5x100 pattern wheel, 15", 16" and 17" will fit. O.
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- Wheel size
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2nd page of New Gen FAQ sticky. under my name is link for FSM's. O.
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there is a vin on the motor. Flat surface on pass. side above the unused bolt hole. May need cleaning to see. The 10th digit will tell the year.. T=96, V=97,w=98 and X=99. Cars101.com has a wealth of info. For FSM go to New Gen sticky above. 2nd page under my name is link. O.
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- transmission
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Unless the 99 tranny is toast, just put the 99 intake manifold with harness onto the 96 motor and 99 tranny. O.
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if a bearing went out, it has scored the crank. If you want to delve into it, you can get a reman crank and bearings for about $250 plus your core(northernautoparts.com), or have your crank machined and get new bearings to match. Sometimes you can find a part out on craigslist at a good price. The idlers, tensioner and water pump will swap over. You need a 99-01 EJ22 for the harness to match. O.
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It works, no codes and no drilling needed. Cut the egr tube in half. Rotate to right. Get hose to fit. Get a 3'4" plastic T barb from hardware. Cut IAC hose so that the barb will be facing the firewall. Attach other end of IAC to intake. Now you need piece of hose to go from the barb to the egr line. You also need a fiiting that will go over the small line from egr to the iac hose. Take the egr tube with you so you'll get what you need to fit. I got my pieces from Advance Auto. Clamp the egr connections(hard line, fitting on intermediate hose, and where intermediate goes into the T'd barb). The two sides of the IAC barb don't need clamps as the one piece doesn't use any. Can't take a picture to show the one I did and my drawing skills are non existent. Once you get into it you'll see. O.
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Being a DIY, I do not have all the tools that a regular mechanic may have, so I like you try to remove items that may be easier with a specialized tool, but for whatever the reason don't buy. That being said,, I spray with PB a day or two before I start. After removing the pinch bolt ( which sometimes have their own issues), I remove cotter pin from castle nut and unscrew it a little to make sure it moves. Then I remove the sway bar bolt and pry downwards on the control arm. This has worked for me.in all cases but one, in which the ball joint snapped!. I then used a chisel on the ball joint until it broke free of the rust and freely rotated and pried it out. I always run the insides of the socket with 1000 grit or finer paper, clean and anti seize. O.