ocei77

^+1 Quality headgaskets and resurfacing at the minimum. O.

Yes, the Oil cooler uses a T stat housing that has two ports. One for the cooler and one for the bypass pipe. O.

Don't remove the engine mount bolt entirely on the side you are not working on, this will prevent the possibility of misalignment. Ie :working on driver's side, remove driver side mount, but leave two or three threads caught on passenger side. Do the work, then alternate. O.

I don't quite understand the issue. If you have a Forester engine with oil cooler, everything should be there. The OB body wouldn't make a difference. Are you mixing engine parts? If so follow advice above^. When I get to another place, I have an engine that I put the oil cooler on, so I can take a pic. Will hopefully get there within the next few days. O.

Its an oil cooler. Just put the engine in. O.

Its called a Back Pressure Transducer (BPT). It's part of the egr system. Get one from salvage.. O.

Intake .20 Exh .25 mm tolereance of +/- .02 O.

Yes, replace the rotors. Check pads, if worn a lot or scored, might as well do it all at once. Only two extra bolts per side. Depending on the year of car, most bracket bolts are 17mm. An extension and 1/2" ratchet would be best. Spray with PB beforehand if you can. Sometimes the rotors are stuck. Since you are replacing them, a good whack with a BFH will shake them loose, though there are two threaded holes that take an 8x1.25 bolt to push them off. If you have it , wire wheel the outside of the hub that the rotor centers on and a little of the face. I generally put a little anti seize on the circumference of the hub and a little on the face. This to minimize sticking in the future. Anti seize all the bolts before reinstalling. O.

I lost a fuel pump in a 98 Forester two years ago. Rather than just replace the pump since it was less work, I swapped the assembly from a 97 Legacy that had died from other causes. Its still running today. Unless the tank was drained, you don't get oxidation on the copper lines. If necessary a swipe or two with 1000 or finer paper will be all that you need. I've never heard of the float itself going bad. O.

Salvage yard. From as late a model as you can. It only takes about 15 min to remove. Take PB, an 8mm socket, a phillips head screwdriver and a pair of pliers. You'll have to wiggle a little as the float level gets in the way. The nuts will be rusted. On your vehicle tighten a small bit to break the rust, then loosen. O.

The posted workaround works, but there is a simpler way. Cut the egr tube in half, rotate it 90 deg. facing pass side. Take the iac hose and the cut egr to auto store and get a foot of the size that fits it. There is another fitting that will go over it that will make a tight fit into the iac hose.(not sure of size) If you don't have another iac hose around get a foot of 3/4" ID hose of any type. Get a 3/4" T barb. Plastic is fine Hose clamps is all else you need. Lay it out as you install it so that you cut the iac hose in the right places. Will post pics as soon as I get to the car that the mod is on. O.

Just in case there is someone looking for this. See craigslist for NYC. Seller is asking $200. Been on list a while. I'm sure he'll deal. O.

Rebuilding an engine is time consuming and depending on machine costs expesnsive. If a bearing is gone more likely the crank is shot also. In the lower 48 it's usually cheaper to buy a crank with bearings than to turn the crank, new bearings and polish the rod( hoping that's all it needs). You have to check on freight costs, etc for a new crank, Try northernautoparts,com for cranks and get shipping. For the 25D heads on a 2.2 go to legacygt.com and look for posts by DOHCEJ22E1 . There is a complete build info there and which HG to use. If more info is needed, just post and I'll give you what I can. O.

In the future you don't need to remove the strut bolts to change the axle. Removing the sway bar upper bolt and the outer tie rod castle nut, popping the rod down gives you all the movement you need and you don't have to worry about possibly changing alignment. O.

Flashing At Oil Temp light is just telling you that there is a transmission code stored. A regular scanner will not read it. Perhaps some one will chime in with an app that can help. If not you'll have to find someone who can. O.

CT does emissions tests via the OBD port. Since the 96 Subaru monitors are always reset on key off, they will never show ready and thus cannot be read. 96 Subaru are exempt . Just tell them to look up their exemption list. You can call a station beforehand to make sure they are aware. O,

98 GT. 2.2 swap. over 200K. Works sporadically. Started acting up @ 6mos ago, swap is over 2 years ago. Getting code 740 because of it. Have replaced the circuit board and the tach itself. Tried to wiggle wires, but can't see function, What else to check? Thx. O.

If you have a 2.2 (since it's not an OB),, the last choice is a burnt exhaust valve, O.

There are actually three relays that control the fuel pump. The actual fuel pump relay is cylindrical and tucked up on the drivers side in a metal clip. May be white or green in color. In the engine panel SBF 2 controls juice to the fuel pump relay. However, SBF 4 controls juice to SBF 2. Check both, more often than not, it's one of these that has blown. O.

older cars, Subies included used Mercon for the PS system, for the most part. Power Steering fluid is supposed to have a little more conditioner to help the O rings stay elastic longer. (Not worth it IMO) Newer vehicles have more dedicated fluids, so one must follow the mfg recommendations. O.

If it is stuck in socket, I've found that a chisel works. Just keep hitting the round section at an angle so that the when the rust breaks free it'll start to rotate. Keep working until it rotates at least 270 deg. Put castle nut back on and either pry or hit the a arm with a bfh. It';ll come out. Obviously an air hammer would be a lot quicker, but most BYM don't have that at their disposal. O.

a small bottle jack with wood against the firewall and the piston pushing onto the block will work also. O.

My procedures is as follows. Make sure the converter is fully seated. The ears for the bolts should extend @ 1/4 " past the face of housing.. Grease the nose of converter. Raise the tranny and put a small block of wood from a 2x4 under each dowel point. Using the short side, this will raise the tranny 1 1/2". This will allow the engine mount studs to clear the frame and still slide easily into the tranny. Once the studs are in, a little upward pressure will allow you to push the blocks out. Lower and catch .a few threads on the studs. Turn the torque converter so that an ear is aligned with the inspection hole. This will allow easy catching of the TC bolts. Tighten tc bolt fully but not torqued to spec as you rotate to catch the other three. If you partially tighten, after you do the 3rd, you'll find that it won't rotate further. Standard practices after this., O.

Drlling is easier when you have the right bit first. If you want to use heat, remove the axle from the hub to get it out of the way. One of these days, I'll buy that special stuff that absorbs heat so I can use it near these types of things. O.

I assume you have already removed the crank sprocket. Remove connector for crank sprocket. Once done, carefully pry on the upper tabs to break the seal. Again, there is no gasket, only sealant between the pump and the block.. O.